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GMN

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A few weeks ago we had a roller break in half on our baler 535 John Deere, tried welding it at first, didn't work, had to buy it new $500, now last night another different one broke-not gonna fork out another $500 this close to the end of haying, gonna try to weld it first, has anyone ever had any success with welding rollers on balers?

GMN
 

cfpinz

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I haven't done it myself but if you can find a piece of pipe with the od the same size as the id of your roller and put in inside to brace where it's broke I think it would be well worth your time.
 

talldog

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cfpinz":3h9n3q88 said:
I haven't done it myself but if you can find a piece of pipe with the od the same size as the id of your roller and put in inside to brace where it's broke I think it would be well worth your time.
Makes Sense !!! :tiphat:
 

Aaron

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We welded one of the top rollers on our 605C a number of years ago. It is a tedious process, lots of grinding.
You have to do everything with the roller in the chamber in order to keep everything tight and inline. You can do what cfpinz said and put a similar pipe in the center, although I would encourage you to do the full length of pipe for the roller, not just a section...our you will design yourself a weak spot. Regardless, in that scenario, you would still have to torch out the stub shafts at the ends to get the pipe into the roller.

Your lucky. Vermeer 605C rollers are priced at $1000.00 a piece. In your case, after the 2nd roller breaking, I would go find another baler.

Also I should add, welding is not a sure thing. Might break in the same spot once or twice more.

Tip: don't weld the two pieces in the center (the crack). Drizzle the weld back and forth over the crack. After this is done, then weld the center. This will allow your roller to flex and avoid breaking again. :cowboy:
 
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not sure of the size of roller you have but you could find a piece that slides inside of the roller. Then make sure it goes past broken part about 4" on each side of crack. Drill 1/2 or 5/8 holes in the broken roller then plug weld the holes to the piece you put inside grind smooth. This works at the paper mill I work at until we can make a new roller.
 

novaman

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You can try to fix the roller but I wouldn't be putting it back in the field without investigating the cause. After two rollers go there is a good chance something isn't quite right. I'm on the second 535 and over the 20 years I haven't broken a roller once.
 

cowsrus

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Look for a consignment auction that has a burnt 535, the rollers should still be good. You should be able to pick one up pretty cheap. Not much else left on one. They had two of them in Tulsa wednesday.
 
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GMN

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cowsrus":3ssw852i said:
Look for a consignment auction that has a burnt 535, the rollers should still be good. You should be able to pick one up pretty cheap. Not much else left on one. They had two of them in Tulsa wednesday.

GREAT IDEA!
 

options

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Aaron":1ixece1v said:
Regardless, in that scenario, you would still have to torch out the stub shafts at the ends to get the pipe into the roller.
We must be looking at this in two completly different lights. I'm thinking put the new smaller pipe in where the roller is broke why do you want to go thru the work of removing the stub shafts?
 
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