T-Post H Braces.

Caustic Burno

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Sep 26, 2004
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Big Thicket East Texas
Looking at a new spot for a food plot.
Have any of yall ever used the T-post H brace system and can you put real pressure to hold high tensile wire.
I am not wanting to put in wooden H's in case I don't like the spot and decide to take it up.

Never seen anyone around here use them.
 
Haven't ever seen "H" T post braces but I have seen folks use an angled T post brace. Top of the corner post to the bottom of the brace post. Don't see why that wouldn't work.
 
lavacarancher":hsmpb9wo said:
Haven't ever seen "H" T post braces but I have seen folks use an angled T post brace. Top of the corner post to the bottom of the brace post. Don't see why that wouldn't work.
That's what I use. The roblem with putting too much strain on yhem is they're not very deep in the ground compared to a wooden post
 
I never heard of them til you posted this thread. I watched a YouTube video about them, and I gotta say I'm impressed. I'm sure the video showed the best selling points, and not the worst, but I believe I'll get me some of them.
 
One other thing, CB. Have you tried using the poly line for your fencer? I started using that stuff a couple of years ago and I like it. It's much easier to handle, takes way less "stretch" to get it tight (less pressure on your posts and hardware), uses fewer posts, and I think it might be a little cheaper. And when you get ready to take it down you just roll it up on a spool by hand. I don't use wire anymore.
 
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lavacarancher":2qdls12y said:
One other thing, CB. Have you tried using the poly line for your fencer? I started using that stuff a couple of years ago and I like it. It's much easier to handle, takes way less "stretch" to get it tight (less pressure on your posts and hardware), uses fewer posts, and I think it might be a little cheaper. And when you get ready to take it down you just roll it up on a spool by hand. I don't use wire anymore.

Started reading up on the stuff the other day it's a little more expensive can't remember the brand
stuff had a 10 year warranty.
I was actually thinking of trying the wide stuff be easy for the deer and cows to see as well.
 
Caustic Burno":9gubz2bz said:
lavacarancher":9gubz2bz said:
One other thing, CB. Have you tried using the poly line for your fencer? I started using that stuff a couple of years ago and I like it. It's much easier to handle, takes way less "stretch" to get it tight (less pressure on your posts and hardware), uses fewer posts, and I think it might be a little cheaper. And when you get ready to take it down you just roll it up on a spool by hand. I don't use wire anymore.

Started reading up on the stuff the other day it's a little more expensive can't remember the brand
stuff had a 10 year warranty.
I was actually thinking of trying the wide stuff be easy for the deer and cows to see as well.
I buy the 1/2 wide roll for 30 bucks it has 660` per roll. I will drive a t post with no braces and run 2 or 3 strands and it does fine. I use them ratchet things on one end and fiberglass post every 10 steps.
 
CB, are you talking about the Wedge-Loc products? If so, I used these to built my duck pen to hold up 5ft high 2"x4" fencing. I used 8ft posts on the corners and the Wedge-Loc system to brace the corners. I like the way it worked, but I wouldn't trust it for high tensile. Reason being is when you come to do a corner, you have to pull from both directions nearly at the same time, otherwise you pull the t-post one direction more than the other.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/w ... -brace-set


Edit: Here is how my pen looks. This was a picture I took of my ducks, but you can see the t-posts in the back ground.

96781032-FFD8-4607-85C1-97D204A62B49_zps5ktsjdu3.jpg
 
I've used the H brace wedge-lok type in areas that were too wet to put in wood posts. For corners I used 2 H's at 90 degrees - so I used 4 vertical posts and 2 horizontal posts. They work ok, they've been in now about 10 years or so. I wasn't careful enough squaring my posts up in a couple places and the wedge-lok device wasn't strong enough for pressure on the side and they started to break out. I pulled 2 runs of barb wire off them and was able to pull enough to bow the t-post.
 

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