Stump Jumper Dropped off

Margonme

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Bush Hog brand rotary mower. The stump jumper came off the splined drive shaft. Looking down into the stump jumper grooved mating that goes on the shaft, I saw that the end of the mating grooves are blunted. Is that normal? See the pictures:
15xv9ti.jpg

2hz1i7s.jpg
 
Second Question:
I am planning to turn the Bush hog over to make driving the stump jumper on easier. Is there any reason that a bush hog should not be turned upside down?
 
I don't know Ron but it sure don't look like it's supposed to be that way. I can't think of any reasons not to turn it over. They ship them standing on end
 
talltimber":thmgslru said:
Looks like maybe a loose nut problem

Yes. It finally dropped off. It was a turreted nut with a pin. I guess it lost the pin and the nut got loose and finally dropped. It looks like it galled the grooves.
 
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talltimber":229eoen9 said:
From the bouncing up and down. New rig to you, or it happened so slowly that the noise did not change fast enough to notice I bet?


I have a cab. Plus radio. I don't catch much noise.
 
Margonme":t6hqmvs0 said:
talltimber":t6hqmvs0 said:
Looks like maybe a loose nut problem

Yes. It finally dropped off. It was a turreted nut with a pin. I guess it lost the pin and the nut got loose and finally dropped. It looks like it galled the grooves.

FYI, those nuts are called castle nuts. And turning a rotary mower upside won't hurt anything besides the leaking the gear oil out. You might need a washer or two to take up the slack because of the wear. The nut needs to be really tight, like 450lbs torque.
 
True Grit Farms":mijjwm89 said:
Margonme":mijjwm89 said:
talltimber":mijjwm89 said:
Looks like maybe a loose nut problem

Yes. It finally dropped off. It was a turreted nut with a pin. I guess it lost the pin and the nut got loose and finally dropped. It looks like it galled the grooves.

FYI, those nuts are called castle nuts. And turning a rotary mower upside won't hurt anything besides the leaking the gear oil out. You might need a washer or two to take up the slack because of the wear. The nut needs to be really tight, like 450lbs torque.

Yes. On the nuts. The castle nuts, I get confused with the turrets on a castle and call them turrets instead of castle.

Do you think I can clean up those grooves and use that jumper?
 
I would be cautious about running that same stump jumper. If those splines have any wear from being run loose it could cause problems. May also check the shaft coming out of the gear box for slop.

There isn't any benefit to flipping it upside down. You usually have to get to both sides any ways.
 
Brute 23":3rjjl6a6 said:
I would be cautious about running that same stump jumper. If those splines have any wear from being run loose it could cause problems. May also check the shaft coming out of the gear box for slop.

There isn't any benefit to flipping it upside down. You usually have to get to both sides any ways.

The shaft did not take as much wear. I have the same concern on the stump jumper. Is it best to stand it up on end?
 
Ron I've had shafts with splines like driving discs that have copped a good flogging when they have loosened but when I have put them back together and had everything torqued up and used a bit and tightened again I have had no problem. There seems to be enough mating surface to keep things together as long as it stays tight.

Ken
 
I'd use what you have myself. Just make sure you get the nut tight, I was told you can't break the shaft with a 4' bar. I don't know this to be true though. But I do know a 1" impact wrench can't break the shaft.
 
Margonme":8vlrtpzf said:
Brute 23":8vlrtpzf said:
I would be cautious about running that same stump jumper. If those splines have any wear from being run loose it could cause problems. May also check the shaft coming out of the gear box for slop.

There isn't any benefit to flipping it upside down. You usually have to get to both sides any ways.

The shaft did not take as much wear. I have the same concern on the stump jumper. Is it best to stand it up on end?

We usually just lift the front up with the front end loader or chain hoist a couple feet off the ground. We block it up also just in case.

Do what you feel comfortable with though.
 
No need to replace the whole pan. The splined hub can be replaced by itself, although I think your splines are fine. If your BushHog dealer is any good, he should make a call to BH and pick their brain for you.

We lift up the BH with the loader and chain. Won't hurt anything. With the pan off, good time to make sure bottom seals aren't leaking and sharpen blades.
 
Yep, tighten that nut HARD.. Loctite on teh nut and never-seize on the splines.. it should be just fine for a long time after that. Agreed it's a good time to check the bearings and the seals.. And sharpen blades.
 
Margonme":3go0zrdz said:
Brute 23":3go0zrdz said:
I would be cautious about running that same stump jumper. If those splines have any wear from being run loose it could cause problems. May also check the shaft coming out of the gear box for slop.

There isn't any benefit to flipping it upside down. You usually have to get to both sides any ways.

The shaft did not take as much wear. I have the same concern on the stump jumper. Is it best to stand it up on end?
Just went through similar with the drive shaft from the center gear box to one of the side gearboxes. The splines aren;t supposed to look like that. The splines in the stump jumper is made softer so that it will wear instead of wearing out the ones on the gear box. Best bet is to cough up the bucks and get a new stump jumper.
The shaft half to goes to the side gear box was 198 bucks. I can only guess (and dread) what the stump jumper would cost
 
dun":3jpzlq0b said:
Margonme":3jpzlq0b said:
Brute 23":3jpzlq0b said:
I would be cautious about running that same stump jumper. If those splines have any wear from being run loose it could cause problems. May also check the shaft coming out of the gear box for slop.

There isn't any benefit to flipping it upside down. You usually have to get to both sides any ways.

The shaft did not take as much wear. I have the same concern on the stump jumper. Is it best to stand it up on end?
Just went through similar with the drive shaft from the center gear box to one of the side gearboxes. The splines aren;t supposed to look like that. The splines in the stump jumper is made softer so that it will wear instead of wearing out the ones on the gear box. Best bet is to cough up the bucks and get a new stump jumper.
The shaft half to goes to the side gear box was 198 bucks. I can only guess (and dread) what the stump jumper would cost

That is a good idea. The splines on the shaft look good. I bet the stump jumper is at least $300.
 

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