Soil Health

Help Support CattleToday:

HDRider

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2011
Messages
7,893
Reaction score
1,990
Location
NE Arkansas
This farm has been pasture for almost 70 years. I am sure it has seen better days.

The ridge I live on is capped by a deep layer of wind-deposited (loessial) soils, a fine-grained soil created millions of years ago as glaciers moved across the continent. Extensive areas, including the Mississippi Alluvial Plain and Crowley's Ridge, were covered by windblown soil. Rivers and streams that continued to meander across the plain washed away the loessial material. On Crowley's Ridge, however, the loess continued to collect, up to fifty feet in depth in some locations. Since loess is very easily eroded, steep slopes and deep valleys characterize much of Crowley's Ridge.

While I was away I let my neighbor hay it just to keep it mowed.

Broom sedge got real bad.

I have two main areas. One I fertilize, not heavy, but maybe 200 pounds of triple 19, twice a year. Much less than the soil sample called for. Broom sedge is 90 percent gone on this area.

The other side I have not fertilized. It still has some broom sedge, but maybe down 70 percent from its worst.

Both sides have been limed well. I have the ph at 6 in most places, close to 6 in others. That is good for here. I put money into lime.

I have pretty good stand of Fescue, and Bermuda. Good white clover. That is both sides.

I mow twice a year for weed control.

This is a weedy area. I guess a sign of low fertility. Seems like different weeds proliferate each year. Last year was woolly crouton, and another plant no one could id. Perilla mint hit hard this year, especially at the edge of the woods. Also some fleshy plant with little pink flowers. I need to figure out what it is. I only spot spray, mostly on thistles.

I have seen my first evidence of dung beetles this year. Some, but not everywhere.

I am kind of doing an experiment. One side letting time heal it. The other side trying science on an affordable scale.

My question is, will the land ever be much? Will it heal itself with care?
 
HDRider said:
This farm has been pasture for almost 70 years. I am sure it has seen better days.

The ridge I live on is capped by a deep layer of wind-deposited (loessial) soils, a fine-grained soil created millions of years ago as glaciers moved across the continent. Extensive areas, including the Mississippi Alluvial Plain and Crowley's Ridge, were covered by windblown soil. Rivers and streams that continued to meander across the plain washed away the loessial material. On Crowley's Ridge, however, the loess continued to collect, up to fifty feet in depth in some locations. Since loess is very easily eroded, steep slopes and deep valleys characterize much of Crowley's Ridge.

While I was away I let my neighbor hay it just to keep it mowed.

Broom sedge got real bad.

I have two main areas. One I fertilize, not heavy, but maybe 200 pounds of triple 19, twice a year. Much less than the soil sample called for. Broom sedge is 90 percent gone on this area.

The other side I have not fertilized. It still has some broom sedge, but maybe down 70 percent from its worst.

Both sides have been limed well. I have the ph at 6 in most places, close to 6 in others. That is good for here. I put money into lime.

I have pretty good stand of Fescue, and Bermuda. Good white clover. That is both sides.

I mow twice a year for weed control.

This is a weedy area. I guess a sign of low fertility. Seems like different weeds proliferate each year. Last year was woolly crouton, and another plant no one could id. Perilla mint hit hard this year, especially at the edge of the woods. Also some fleshy plant with little pink flowers. I need to figure out what it is. I only spot spray, mostly on thistles.

I have seen my first evidence of dung beetles this year. Some, but not everywhere.

I am kind of doing an experiment. One side letting time heal it. The other side trying science on an affordable scale.

My question is, will the land ever be much? Will it heal itself with care?

The first thing I remember from right after I joined here in 2011 was CB telling somebody that we were all grass farmers first and foremost.

That really worried me and if you could see my suburban lawn you'd understand why. I hope this thread gets lots of constructive replies because growing grass and hay still confounds me.
 
HDRider said:
This farm has been pasture for almost 70 years. I am sure it has seen better days.

The ridge I live on is capped by a deep layer of wind-deposited (loessial) soils, a fine-grained soil created millions of years ago as glaciers moved across the continent. Extensive areas, including the Mississippi Alluvial Plain and Crowley's Ridge, were covered by windblown soil. Rivers and streams that continued to meander across the plain washed away the loessial material. On Crowley's Ridge, however, the loess continued to collect, up to fifty feet in depth in some locations. Since loess is very easily eroded, steep slopes and deep valleys characterize much of Crowley's Ridge.

While I was away I let my neighbor hay it just to keep it mowed.

Broom sedge got real bad.

I have two main areas. One I fertilize, not heavy, but maybe 200 pounds of triple 19, twice a year. Much less than the soil sample called for. Broom sedge is 90 percent gone on this area.

The other side I have not fertilized. It still has some broom sedge, but maybe down 70 percent from its worst.

Both sides have been limed well. I have the ph at 6 in most places, close to 6 in others. That is good for here. I put money into lime.

I have pretty good stand of Fescue, and Bermuda. Good white clover. That is both sides.

I mow twice a year for weed control.

This is a weedy area. I guess a sign of low fertility. Seems like different weeds proliferate each year. Last year was woolly crouton, and another plant no one could id. Perilla mint hit hard this year, especially at the edge of the woods. Also some fleshy plant with little pink flowers. I need to figure out what it is. I only spot spray, mostly on thistles.

I have seen my first evidence of dung beetles this year. Some, but not everywhere.

I am kind of doing an experiment. One side letting time heal it. The other side trying science on an affordable scale.

My question is, will the land ever be much? Will it heal itself with care?

We rarely hear about annual clovers....I am sowing some crimson clover and some balansa clover this year which are supposed to be good for the soil and also reseed. Also, rye and ryegrass are supposed to be good for softening the soil. i think the soil can heal itself, but it can go quiker if we do things to help it imo.
 
I got me a small no till drill. I am about to plant cereal rye, vetch, winter peas and some crimson clover, along with this annual rye that friends swear works here.

Albion Rye
http://www.missourisouthernseed.com/forage-grasses/albion-tetraploid-ryegrass/
 
HD, I think "most" land can be healed over time. It certainly can be improved. For me, the question becomes will my cattle ever repay the inputs? I've had my best luck at reversing broomsedge by spraying it glyphosate, and encouraging crabgrass. Then encouraging the crabgrass with a little nitrogen. I also unroll hay in the areas that seem to need the most improvement. Your mileage may vary.
 
You have a pretty good mix there, I'm trying crimson clover in a few places, I want to try the Balsana clover as well, just sourcing the seed now.. My biggest problem around here is the grasses suck the nitrogen out badly, and being an arid climate doesn't help
 
If this will be a winter pasture, feed hay there, sounds like you have it under control though. There is a lot of truth, if you can, to letting it fallow for a year. Most of us can't, so feed good hay in the areas of concern, heavy, and the problem will solve itself.
 
Lots of potential paths to soil health success. Best path depends on your resources and your timing.

Some of the paths:
- buy all the stuff at the ag store and work OT in town to pay for it, then get cattle
- get cattle, then spend time managing high density grazing to literally beat the **** out of it
- ignore the global warming groups and set it on fire, then get cattle
- find a low cost source of hay, then get cattle
- set up a diverse no till crop rotation including perennial sod, and hope you live a long time
-

Soil health is easy in some ways. Cash flowing can be a challenge.
 
I think I'm going to do a couple different soil test basically 1 for each pasture but this will also be the first time I've ever done any fertilizing since I've owned I bought in 2013 it it's only had cattle since 2016 so hopefully it won't need to much 2013-middle of 2016 i bush hogged 1x a month when grass was growing.
 
Stocker Steve said:
Lots of potential paths to soil health success. Best path depends on your resources and your timing.

Some of the paths:
- buy all the stuff at the ag store and work OT in town to pay for it, then get cattle
- get cattle, then spend time managing high density grazing to literally beat the be nice out of it
- ignore the global warming groups and set it on fire, then get cattle
- find a low cost source of hay, then get cattle
- set up a diverse no till crop rotation including perennial sod, and hope you live a long time
-

Soil health is easy in some ways. Cash flowing can be a challenge.

Global warming groups would hate me I'm a fan of what a fire will do to a pasture. Didn't burn last year but will this year on both my big pastures for sure my smaller ones still have quite a bit of grass I'm not gonna just but up. Just yet anyways
 
DCA farm said:
Stocker Steve said:
Lots of potential paths to soil health success. Best path depends on your resources and your timing.

Some of the paths:
- buy all the stuff at the ag store and work OT in town to pay for it, then get cattle
- get cattle, then spend time managing high density grazing to literally beat the be nice out of it
- ignore the global warming groups and set it on fire, then get cattle
- find a low cost source of hay, then get cattle
- set up a diverse no till crop rotation including perennial sod, and hope you live a long time
-

Soil health is easy in some ways. Cash flowing can be a challenge.

Global warming groups would hate me I'm a fan of what a fire will do to a pasture. Didn't burn last year but will this year on both my big pastures for sure my smaller ones still have quite a bit of grass I'm not gonna just but up. Just yet anyways
My cousin has a couple small patches of restored prairie in a wildlife easement. Him and some state sanctioned boys burn it every spring, along with numerous others across the state. I'd say light it.
 
I am not of the cult of Alan Savory, but I think a lot of the basic things he has put together as a theory are absolutely true. Read and watch all you can about these strange outlier people. There are people doing some really fantastic things out there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGvVli0OTrQ
 
I don't have access to chicken litter, and have subsequently never used it. I have always felt like chicken litter would do wonders on soil like mine.
 
I tried those Dakon radishes.....a little heavy rate maybe....last year on a small corner of a pasture.....So far, very pleased with the results.....I'm planning on using them later as I work my way across the old place here.
 
What is soil health? Dr. Ingham will tell you it is the life in the soil. No life no soil, it is just dirt. Same line of thought from Ray Archaleda(sp), Gabe Brown and many others that have been doing soil health a long time. As for me I have been trying to build organic matter, earthworm populations, and other soil biology in my dirt. Not been to successfull. No rain = crop fail = no biology. I believe it can be achieved and will continue to work toward those ends. I have a friend in Mississippi that has gotten there, it took 10 years for them to feel as if they are getting close to goals. It seems the road is going to be a long haul. As for me I am going to be broadcasting compost in front of cattle rotations to let them work some biology into the soil and see if that helps.
 
The Dirt Doctors keep working on new soil health tests. Phds love more tests and more test data. Then you can debate the correlation of different tests...

Organic matter is a useful traditional test. I have started to do some tissue testing.

Otherwise carry a shovel and use it. You can see and smell healthy soil.
 
I carry a shovel often......find a bare spot and wonder why.....often wish I could do an simple analysis of that spot/area to tell me what's up there...??
 

Latest posts

Top