sidexside utv's

Jim62

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 27, 2007
Messages
1,094
City & State/Province
Round Top, Texas
Is anybody on here familiar with the automatic clutches used on JD gators, cub cadet utv, etc.? I have a cub cadet utv and the clutch engages very abruptly and hard--no slip at all. I have to get the engine up to about 1/2 throttle before anything happens, and then it's just BLAM and away you go. What I'm wondering is if there is a way to get it to engage smoothly, and at lower rpm. It's a real treat to try to get it hooked up to a trailer the way it is. Nobody around here (including the dealer) seems to have a clue.......

Thanks
 
Jim62":2uov44nq said:
Is anybody on here familiar with the automatic clutches used on JD gators, cub cadet utv, etc.? I have a cub cadet utv and the clutch engages very abruptly and hard--no slip at all. I have to get the engine up to about 1/2 throttle before anything happens, and then it's just BLAM and away you go. What I'm wondering is if there is a way to get it to engage smoothly, and at lower rpm. It's a real treat to try to get it hooked up to a trailer the way it is. Nobody around here (including the dealer) seems to have a clue.......

Thanks

My mule does that when the belt gets worn out.

Clutch shouldn't cost much. Replace it.
 
I think replacing the clutch will be the thing to try. The thing is practically new, so there's no question of anything being worn out. Just acts like something in the clutch may be sticking. The dealer(s) say that they are all like that, but others I have driven were not nearly as bad . I'd probably be willing to spring for a new clutch if it would fix the problem. Haven't been able to come up with a source for them. Thanks anyway.

Jim
 
I driven alot of utvs and the only one that didn't do that is the Kubota RTV. I really like those but they are pricy.
 
sewall":2hvjb0ww said:
I driven alot of utvs and the only one that didn't do that is the Kubota RTV. I really like those but they are pricy.

I like the Kubotas also but that tranny is not for eavy working. I have been with 2 different people on several occasions when they couldn't turn the tires. I would be POed if I spent 10K and it couldn't even turn the tires.
 
Seems to be that it's not that uncommon to have a rough engaging clutch. I had a gator before that engaged very smoothly. Maybe that's what we pay the extra $2000 for.

I'll just work at getting used to it, I guess.

Thanks for the input.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change.
Let me ask a question on these clutches. Are these devices centrifugal clutches (higher RPM causes them to engage)?

If this is the type of clutch you are talking about they all operate on the weighted spring principal meaning there is either a friction surface or a "dog" that gets flung out into the driven part of the clutch and that friction element is held away from the driven part by springs. The faster the inside or friction parts spins (connected to the engine) the weight of the friction part overcomes the springs and it makes contact with the outside (driven) part of the clutch.

So after all that BS here's what's happening (IMO). The higher the RPM the more harsh the engagement. If you could choose a clutch that engages at say, 600 RPM rather than 1000 RPM the transition would be smoother. Or take the clutch apart and replace the springs with lighter weight pieces so that the clutch engages sooner.

Just a thought.
 
That's pretty close. This one is a pulley that gets narrower as rpm increases, making for a larger diameter for the belt to run on. When it's disengaged, the belt does not contact the sides of the pulley at all. I agree that a slower rpm engagement would likely be smoother. I never have seen what's inside these clutches, but springs and weights sound about right. I was thinking that it might smooth out some after it gets some hours on it, and it actually seems to be. The engagement rpm is still way too high, though. IMHO

I'm guessing that someone makes these clutches and sells them. I just haven't been able to find out who that is.

Thanks.
 
I think there should be some washer looking deals in there that control how tight the belt sits on the pully.

If you belt is totally not touching when you are sitting still the you need to take some out.

There should be a "belt deflection" number that will tell you how much slack your belt should have. It sounds like you have way too much.

I believe you take washers out to tighten in up. That will make it enguage alot sooner if the belt is tighter.

The washer deals are measured in like .1" and .025". It does not take much to move it alot.
 
I have a Kawasaki Mule that I had clutch problems with. The clutch spring got weak making it impossible to get into gear without grinding. I replaced the spring with a stiffer one and now there is no gear grinding when engaging the tranny but it jerks ya pretty good when ya take off on pavement. On dirt it just does a small burnout. :) I wonder if ya replaced the clutch spring with a softer one? That should make engagement smoother.
 
I think the springs and shims is probably the answer. I may have to attempt it myself--can't find anybody around here that even thinks they can be adjusted. Seems kinda strange. I think the same set-up is used on almost all utvs except the Kubota.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top