Shredder help

[csutton]

Long story short I ran over some metal in a field and have managed to "mess up" the blade pan. The book says that the shaft that holds the pan is tapered and to tap around the shaft to loosen it. I have tapped, beat, pryed and cussed it and it won't budge. Does anyone know a trick or a way to get this off? The shredder is a Frontier brand 6 ft.

 

[1982vett]

Can't find anything fast on Frontier.

Just a thought. Are you sure you have all the keys, rollpins, or snapring removed?

 

[csutton]

yeah all the pins are out. The Castle nut is loose and at the end of the threads ( the book says to leave it on so the pan don't fall on you). Honestly I had a heck of time getting the castle nut to break loose. (cheater bar) There is not a way to use a puller so I'm kinda at a loss here.

 

[Brute 23]

I guess you are talking about a stump jumper?

If the shredder has any age on it most likely you will need a torch to get it off.

Get some good penetrating oil and lube'er up. Bang around on the stump jumper part that slides over the shaft, some people call it "warming it up". Some times it will break loose any rust or junk that might be making it stick.

I that does not work you will need a torch to heat it up and some good pry bars. Slide the bars behind the jumper and bang with a hammer as you pull. May take several people, 2 with bars... one with hammer.

Don't spend too much time on the first two if it is tore up and you know you will have to buy another. Just torch it off and get a new one. Put nevercease (sp? apparently its not in the dictionary, go figure ) on the shaft before you put the new one on.

If that does not work or sounds like some thing you don't want to mess with depending on where you are in Central Texas I can give you a number to a Frontier dealer that will take care of it for you. ;-)

 

[cfpinz]

If you have a hole in the deck for removing the blade nuts, put a bar thru there and beat the snot out of it with a sledge, then rotate the jumper and repeat.

 

[csutton]

There is a dealer not too far from the house, but I would prefer not to take it there if possible, especially since they charged over 200 bucks just to change the oil on the tractor! Shredder only has about 20-30 hrs on it. I'll try to get pics tonight or tommorow, if the rain lets up. I don't know if it or what a stump jumper is but this one has a large metal plate where the blades attach and the center bolts to the shaft that goes to the gearbox above the deck. A pain in the a$$ if you ask me.

 

[bigbull338]

sounds like you bent the pan around the shaft.the only thing i can think of is take the torch an heat it up.an see if you can loosen it enough to get it off.but im not there to see it so dont know if that would work.have you try a cheeter bar to try an pry it loose.

 

[csutton]

I dont think the shaft itself is bent. The gear box is sitting off-level twards the front of the deck. Its like the whole gearbox got shifted and tilted. It has some of the 4 bolts holding the gear box down loose. But, in order to tighten those bolts the pan underneath has to be removed. In this case I think pictures are worth a 1000 words. The blades and the pan still rotate, but it hits on the back side of the deck where the access hole is for the blades. Theres not really enough room to get a pry bar in there.

 

[bigbull338]

ok i think i see another prob.your blades sound like they are bent as well.as they turn they should not hitt the top of the shredder.take them off an lay them on level ground.an see if they are bent bowed or warped.

 

[alabama]

Turn that sucker upsidedown. and prop up one side about a foot. get two pipes about 12 feet long and a big man to hold each. stick them under the stump jumper. the put the blue wrench in the part of the stump jumper around the shaft. When you get it good and hot have those big men prize it off. Come blester or bleed somthing is going to give.

 

[hurleyjd]

Get a piece of wood post that will fit into the hole that is there to remove the blades. The wood should be maybe 12 inches long. Rotate the blade carrier until you can see the bolt that holds the blade on. Stick the wood post through the hole and hit is as hard as you can with a sledge hammer. Rotate the blade carrier to the other side and repeat the process. The whole thing then will come off. You will find that the stump jumper part of the blade carrier will be welded to the carrier. Any how that is the way this poor boy does it.

 

[csutton]

Well, I was able to get some pictures today. I tried beating on it some more this afternoon, but still no luck. Heres a few angles:

View attachment 2

View attachment 1

As you can tell one side is way off from the other

Heres the point of impact on the deck from the blade bolt

 

[1982vett]

Is this what you have?

 

[csutton]

Its simular to that, except it has a tapered threaded shaft with a castle nut in the center.

 

[larryshoat]

I would cut some tapered hardwood bolcks and drive those between the pan and the bottom of the deck to keep pressure on it .Then it will take a good sharp blow on the end of the shaft to get it to come off the taper .The trick will be to do this without messing up the shaft . I would take a full nut and weld a thick chunk to it, then thread this back on the shaft, If there was a washer that you removed there should be a space between the nut and pan if not put some smaller washers inside the nut, that should protect the shaft .It would not hurt to warm the pan with the torch .

Larry

 

[alabama]

I still think you need to put the blue wrench on the stump jumper next to the tapered shaft. Get it hot to expand it. We are not trying to get the shaft hot.
Then lots of pressure and knock the stew out of it with a heavy nut on the shaft. I think i would turn it botton upwards so I could get at it.

Good luck and keep after it.

The stump jumper did not look bent in the pictures. You may be able to re squear the gear box with the stump jumper on it and not have to take it off. But pictures can be deceving.

 

[dun]

I would try drilling a hole on either side of the shaft with enough clearence for a bolt head next to the plate/bar theat the blades are attached to. Use a wheel puller with the legs secured by the bolts in the holes you just drilled. Tighten the puller down on the end of the shaft, put a good strain on ity and wck the end of the puller with a 6 lb (minimum) sledge. That should make it pop. That would be after I had soaked the shaft and the stump jumper part around the shaft with lots of penetrating oil for a couple of days.

 

[csutton]

Well, I flipped the shredder up on end today, took the blades off, and drove the wedges in and proceeded in beating the snot out of it. After a good fight, It won... We are taking it to the dealer Monday or Tuesday to have them take the pan off. Then after they determine if the shaft is bent or not, we will go from there. Its hard to work on some things with limited tools.

 

[Brute 23]

Ya, they will do it in a hurry. We torch them right off the shaft. Takes about 15min and will cost you an hour, but atleast it will be done.

We also have some 6' pry bars that we can put behind the stump jumper against the deck. Two people with bars, on with torch and hammer. They come like that some times also.

 

[csutton]

Well, I figure I'd give an update. We took the shredder to the dealer, and they actually had to cut the pan into pieces to get it off. Sooo, we had to order a new pan, plus a new gearbox because the shaft was bent and they do not sell the shafts alone. Took two weeks to get parts in, and finally 3 days ago I was able to get the old gearbox off and replace all the bad parts. Got the new gearbox on, the new pan underneath, and was able to reuse the blades. Tried it out, and it works like brand new. I am glad to get that off my mind now.