Round Balers

[dun]

Roll the net up like toilet paper on your hand and I can fit more than a dozen of them in a cab tractor, toss them up against the door on the right side.

The wad ends up about the size of small to medium watermelon

 

[Silver]

Roll the net up like toilet paper on your hand and I can fit more than a dozen of them in a cab tractor, toss them up against the door on the right side.

The wad ends up about the size of small to medium watermelon

Unless it has the outer 3 inches of the bale still stuck to it. It won't burn in that condition either

 

[ddd75]

you guys with a 5400.. how are you starting your bales? slow until it starts or do you just go at it right from the get go?

it does a good job baling or do i need to know any 'tricks' >?

What starts the bale on these are the teeth, roller scraper adjusted properly and pickup timing. After wear the pickup timing may need a little adjustment which takes about 15 minutes on the adjustments in the side of the pickup. If the teeth are bent or worn bad, new teeth will help starting a bale. Usually about a half inch adjustment on the timing angle on the teeth and you will get bored from just driving unless it is a twine or net issue. The open throat Vermeer balers will take hay for a variable chamber baler good. If you need information on how to do this just call Vermeers headquarters in Pella Iowa give them the Model # and Serial # of your baler and they will send you free of charge Operator and Service manuals. Also they have techs available to help that will respond within 24 hours to any questions.

thanks a lot i'll ask for a manual. I appreciate it.

 

[jltrent]

you guys with a 5400.. how are you starting your bales? slow until it starts or do you just go at it right from the get go?

it does a good job baling or do i need to know any 'tricks' >?

What starts the bale on these are the teeth, roller scraper adjusted properly and pickup timing. After wear the pickup timing may need a little adjustment which takes about 15 minutes on the adjustments in the side of the pickup. If the teeth are bent or worn bad, new teeth will help starting a bale. Usually about a half inch adjustment on the timing angle on the teeth and you will get bored from just driving unless it is a twine or net issue. The open throat Vermeer balers will take hay for a variable chamber baler good. If you need information on how to do this just call Vermeers headquarters in Pella Iowa give them the Model # and Serial # of your baler and they will send you free of charge Operator and Service manuals. Also they have techs available to help that will respond within 24 hours to any questions.

thanks a lot i'll ask for a manual. I appreciate it.

Phone: (641) 628-3141

 

[farmguy]

I have a 545XL. Normally I will just go. But if the windrow is very heavy I will go slow for a few seconds until the belts start to turn. Also it takes me about 50 seconds to tie a bale. This is from the time the twine arms start to go out until they are back and cut.

 

[pricefarm]

I have a 545XL. Normally I will just go. But if the windrow is very heavy I will go slow for a few seconds until the belts start to turn. Also it takes me about 50 seconds to tie a bale. This is from the time the twine arms start to go out until they are back and cut.

Do you mean a 554 XL? That's what I have and love mine.

 

[farmguy]

Do you mean a 554 XL? That's what I have and love mine.

I guess your right 554XL. It's in the shed and I didn't go to look.

 

[snoopdog]

I don't even get out to cut twine, just slip a bale spear under the twine and lift up.

It's not like we didn't want net wrap to work for us. Paid the extra money for a baler with both, and fed a lot of it for two winters. I think it would be fantastic in a better climate, and I know hay keeps better with it. Just not willing to go through that anymore.

For my sheer curiosity, what does it cost you to sisal wrap each roll?

There's no one-size-fits all in anything, it's just what works best for the individual. My wife's father used to work for an outfit that used sisal tied squares for everything, they lost a high dollar horned Gert bull one time and couldn't figure out why. Autopsy found his gut was packed full of sisal strings that had been removed from squares, apparently he developed a taste for them.

Absolutely right , no one size fits all. The cost will vary with twine , according to type of grass, and whether you're transporting or not, if it's a finer grass and you have to haul, you'll want a few more wraps vs a stemmy type that stays at location . I estimate 1.00 a bale plus or minus, for sisal . Plastic twine is cheaper but isn't an option for me . We don't do anything with the sisal until we move the feeder , if then. Most of the guys Iknow that haul a lot of hay very far, just won't haul twine wrapped , unless it's immediately after baling . Ive heard of problems with sisal like you described but never seen it myself .

 

[Texasmark]

The old 530 / 430 John Deeres are good old balers and pretty cheap. As long as the belts, pickup and frame are in good shape the rest is relatively cheap and easy to work on.

55hp won't do with a 530. I had one and a JD 4230DC (100 PTO) and it would start talking to the tractor after passing 5.5' diameter. On a 2/12 pitched incline it would start talking at around 4'. Tractor was under 4000 hrs and in pristeen condition as was the baler for it's age.

Currently doing 5x4s with a JD 375 (rolls a 5x6 but is full at 5x4) and a nearly new 65 hp (57 PTO) and it starts grunting around 3.5.

On a volumetric basis take a 5x6 (JD 530) at 141, a 4x6 (430) comes in at 113 and my 5x4 (375) comes in at 63, all things being equal otherwise...moisture, density, crop type......so sir, I think you are underpowered for your aspirations.

 

[Clod Hopper]

A 4x5 baler would be max on a 5320 in my opinion. I am pulling a 5x5 with a 2750 and it handles it but to be honest I would like to have a bigger tractor. It is around 80 hp and much heavier than a 5320. I would like to try net wrap but I have heard others say that the net freezing to the bale is a problem here too. Tying time is not a big issue for me as I do less than 300 per year.

 

[Silver]

The old 530 / 430 John Deeres are good old balers and pretty cheap. As long as the belts, pickup and frame are in good shape the rest is relatively cheap and easy to work on.

55hp won't do with a 530. I had one and a JD 4230DC (100 PTO) and it would start talking to the tractor after passing 5.5' diameter. On a 2/12 pitched incline it would start talking at around 4'. Tractor was under 4000 hrs and in pristeen condition as was the baler for it's age.

Currently doing 5x4s with a JD 375 (rolls a 5x6 but is full at 5x4) and a nearly new 65 hp (57 PTO) and it starts grunting around 3.5.

On a volumetric basis take a 5x6 (JD 530) at 141, a 4x6 (430) comes in at 113 and my 5x4 (375) comes in at 63, all things being equal otherwise...moisture, density, crop type......so sir, I think you are underpowered for your aspirations.

I don't think so. I was referring to the series of baler, assuming the 430 would be the one to choose. Guys pull them with those little tractors in flat country all the time.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

I make really tight 4x5 bales both dry and silage with a NH 648SS and when baling silage it works a 100hp tractor pretty good. Start baling silage on some hilly ground and I want all the tractor I can find. Even dry hay when packing them tight and trying to move along it takes some power.

As for net vs twine you couldn't give me another twine only baler. I don't have too much trouble with the net wrap even with our crazy winters (Had 140 inches of snow so far this winter, -30 one day and +35 and rain two days later, then back to -15). Use good quality net wrap and if needed set the next days bales on the flat side in the sun, even at -15 the net will thaw out. Id much rather deal with net in the winter than have to deal with twine all summer when I am pressed for time.

Edit: Also as far as your economic example it all sound good on paper until something goes wrong. I maintain my baler better than I maintain anything I own and this summer I had a bearing go bad in the main gearbox which locked up and twisted off the output shaft, chewed up some gears, and broke the mounting ears off the baler frame. By the time I was all said and done I probably could have bought a winter or two worth of hay with that one repair alone. haha

 

[jltrent]

I make really tight 4x5 bales both dry and silage with a NH 648SS and when baling silage it works a 100hp tractor pretty good. Start baling silage on some hilly ground and I want all the tractor I can find. Even dry hay when packing them tight and trying to move along it takes some power.

As for net vs twine you couldn't give me another twine only baler. I don't have too much trouble with the net wrap even with our crazy winters (Had 140 inches of snow so far this winter, -30 one day and +35 and rain two days later, then back to -15). Use good quality net wrap and if needed set the next days bales on the flat side in the sun, even at -15 the net will thaw out. Id much rather deal with net in the winter than have to deal with twine all summer when I am pressed for time.

Edit: Also as far as your economic example it all sound good on paper until something goes wrong. I maintain my baler better than I maintain anything I own and this summer I had a bearing go bad in the main gearbox which locked up and twisted off the output shaft, chewed up some gears, and broke the mounting ears off the baler frame. By the time I was all said and done I probably could have bought a winter or two worth of hay with that one repair alone. haha

That is a heck of a break down. Was the oil level good in the gear box as I am sure you had checked it. On the NH around here the pickups are pretty weak, but they do make a good bale.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

Oil was changed probably 20 hours previous and the level was perfect when I got it all apart. Just one of those freak things that could happen to anybody. Just saying when you think your saving money one breakdown costs you all you saved and then some.

 

[Texasmark]

The old 530 / 430 John Deeres are good old balers and pretty cheap. As long as the belts, pickup and frame are in good shape the rest is relatively cheap and easy to work on.

55hp won't do with a 530. I had one and a JD 4230DC (100 PTO) and it would start talking to the tractor after passing 5.5' diameter. On a 2/12 pitched incline it would start talking at around 4'. Tractor was under 4000 hrs and in pristeen condition as was the baler for it's age.

Currently doing 5x4s with a JD 375 (rolls a 5x6 but is full at 5x4) and a nearly new 65 hp (57 PTO) and it starts grunting around 3.5.

On a volumetric basis take a 5x6 (JD 530) at 141, a 4x6 (430) comes in at 113 and my 5x4 (375) comes in at 63, all things being equal otherwise...moisture, density, crop type......so sir, I think you are underpowered for your aspirations.

I don't think so. I was referring to the series of baler, assuming the 430 would be the one to choose. Guys pull them with those little tractors in flat country all the time.

I never pulled a 430 so I can't speak from experience. Just speculating from my experiences with JD balers on both sides of the 430's capacity.

 

[Texasmark]

I make really tight 4x5 bales both dry and silage with a NH 648SS and when baling silage it works a 100hp tractor pretty good. Start baling silage on some hilly ground and I want all the tractor I can find. Even dry hay when packing them tight and trying to move along it takes some power.

As for net vs twine you couldn't give me another twine only baler. I don't have too much trouble with the net wrap even with our crazy winters (Had 140 inches of snow so far this winter, -30 one day and +35 and rain two days later, then back to -15). Use good quality net wrap and if needed set the next days bales on the flat side in the sun, even at -15 the net will thaw out. Id much rather deal with net in the winter than have to deal with twine all summer when I am pressed for time.

Edit: Also as far as your economic example it all sound good on paper until something goes wrong. I maintain my baler better than I maintain anything I own and this summer I had a bearing go bad in the main gearbox which locked up and twisted off the output shaft, chewed up some gears, and broke the mounting ears off the baler frame. By the time I was all said and done I probably could have bought a winter or two worth of hay with that one repair alone. haha

That is a heck of a break down. Was the oil level good in the gear box as I am sure you had checked it. On the NH around here the pickups are pretty weak, but they do make a good bale.

I don't remember the protective device on my 530 but the 375 manual specifies, and I use, a ¼" grade 8 shear bolt and I ensure the joint is lubricated and free to move. I too have had roller bearing failures in the last couple of years on my 1991 model baler. All were the small, easily repairable, supplemental rollers, not main drives. One did catch fire, catching the hay in the baler on fire, but I saw the smoke (originally mistaken for the usual dust I was creating), dumped the bale as I made a high tail for the water hose. Made it and no damage..

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

No shear bolt but a slip clutch on the input of the gearbox. When tested it slipped at the book spec'd torque. When the bearing failed the gearbox locked up and in an instant the gearbox tore from the frame before the clutch had time to slip. When the gearbox rotated about its input shafts the output shaft which is at a 90 had no choice but to snap off.

Nothing against the baler just using it as an example of how the economics of making hay "cheap" can change in a hurry. I make a lot of hay both for myself and as a custom operator and even at that it's hard to stomach the expensive of a baler sometimes.

 

[Silver]

55hp won't do with a 530. I had one and a JD 4230DC (100 PTO) and it would start talking to the tractor after passing 5.5' diameter. On a 2/12 pitched incline it would start talking at around 4'. Tractor was under 4000 hrs and in pristeen condition as was the baler for it's age.

Currently doing 5x4s with a JD 375 (rolls a 5x6 but is full at 5x4) and a nearly new 65 hp (57 PTO) and it starts grunting around 3.5.

On a volumetric basis take a 5x6 (JD 530) at 141, a 4x6 (430) comes in at 113 and my 5x4 (375) comes in at 63, all things being equal otherwise...moisture, density, crop type......so sir, I think you are underpowered for your aspirations.

I don't think so. I was referring to the series of baler, assuming the 430 would be the one to choose. Guys pull them with those little tractors in flat country all the time.

I never pulled a 430 so I can't speak from experience. Just speculating from my experiences with JD balers on both sides of the 430's capacity.

I Think JD recommends 65 hp for the 430, so if hay is dry and land is flat I'm thinking he could get away with it. Especially if he backed the size down. If he's only making 120 bales a year it should just be a matter of slowing down and suffering through for a few hours.

 

[Kingfisher]

As crazy as it may sound, I enjoy doing it, as I'd be willing to bet a good amount of posters on this board do also." You ain't been here long have you? . We ain't never heard that...

 

[Ridgefarmer63]

I make really tight 4x5 bales both dry and silage with a NH 648SS and when baling silage it works a 100hp tractor pretty good. Start baling silage on some hilly ground and I want all the tractor I can find. Even dry hay when packing them tight and trying to move along it takes some power.

As for net vs twine you couldn't give me another twine only baler. I don't have too much trouble with the net wrap even with our crazy winters (Had 140 inches of snow so far this winter, -30 one day and +35 and rain two days later, then back to -15). Use good quality net wrap and if needed set the next days bales on the flat side in the sun, even at -15 the net will thaw out. Id much rather deal with net in the winter than have to deal with twine all summer when I am pressed for time.

Edit: Also as far as your economic example it all sound good on paper until something goes wrong. I maintain my baler better than I maintain anything I own and this summer I had a bearing go bad in the main gearbox which locked up and twisted off the output shaft, chewed up some gears, and broke the mounting ears off the baler frame. By the time I was all said and done I probably could have bought a winter or two worth of hay with that one repair alone. haha

I hear you and thanks for the input. I have no issue in central NH with net wrap on the haylage I'm buying. One thing you said is lay a few out on the flat side in the sun. I always stack them on the flat side. I never put them on the round side unless I'm throwing them in the feeder..