Rotational grazing is causing something

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talltimber

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I am trying to rotational graze. This has not been done on this farm before other than moving cattle off hay ground then back on for a while. Other than that I would call it continuous grazing. Generally, they may run the hay ground until March, then be turned north all summer and returned in the late fall.

I put up some single strand and cut the north up in to 5 patches. Size ranges from 6 acres to 22 acres or so. I would cut those bigger spots more but they are across the ridge and I can't get water over there easily. In studying this type grazing system and forages available, actually LOOKING at the grasses, there are a lot more to eat here than I thought. I've got a mix of crabgrass, some kind of goosegrass/barnyard grass (not identified for sure yet), fall panicum (I think), lespedeza (mostly thinly scattered), clover, fescue (majority by far), cheatgrass, and scattered/thin orchardgrass in areas. One thing I have noticed, and it was easily noticed, is that the thorn sprouts are not as tall as normal, and the canadian thistle is not as high as the tractor hood (sometimes cab). I am moving cattle when it gets eaten down pretty good. Some of the tougher stuff not too short, some of the better clover areas i sometimes let get too short, as they pick those areas time and again. I think they have been eating the tops out of the thorns bushes, and maybe the thistles when they were small? If I don't ruin the clover patches by letting them pick them over too much, I think this rotating thing is going to be ok. I like the idea of holding them in a smaller area, one reason being as it's easier to find them to check. Don't have to ride the whole place. I have planned my rotates to have them back to their first patch the second time just as they are beginning to calve, which requires them to water at the barn, which might prove to be very handy. The only down side I can see is that I have been over a couple patches a couple of times with the bushhog to keep the weeds knocked down. I am probably burning about the same amount of fuel vs mowing one time and it being hood high in previous years.
Just relaying what I've seen and learned so far and maybe looking for some input from others doing this. I have read other threads lately about spraying the weeds and I may have to try that next year to cut the tractor time. Any good reference links for setting up a sprayer/tip sizes to use? I am debating a tractor mounted rig, or maybe a pvc boom to go on the four wheeler to run off my spot sprayer tank.
 
If it isn't too personal, how many total acres do you think you will spray in a year?
 
You'll spend a LOT of time refilling an ATV spray tank--probably more than you do actually spraying. I tried it with a 30 gal atv sprayer--it got real old real quick. I went from that to 30gal and have never regretted it, even tho I usually only mix 200-250 gals at a time.
 
I have been rotional grazing this year more intensely than I have been. It is unbelievable how much more grass I have even thought this summer has been one of our hottest and dryest in a long time. What I do is once I move them off a feild I go in and spray the weeds. Depending on the size of the feild and the amount of weeds I use either the four wheeler with a 30 gal spot sprayer or I'll use the tractor with a 275 gal boomless sprayer.
With rotional grazing Iam able to run a cow calf per acre. I was running a cow calf per 2-2.5 acres.
 
I want so much to add my 2-cents but I promised I wouldn't. So I'll just ask a simple question. Have you ever heard of Hair Sheep?
 
City Guy":16hlpbjd said:
I want so much to add my 2-cents but I promised I wouldn't. So I'll just ask a simple question. Have you ever heard of Hair Sheep?

Ever heard the term range maggot?
 
BIgfoot I may have to spray 50 or acres, maybe more? I am unsure. Using this year as a reference, I have been knocking back the flush of nettles occurring on the patch I made hay on. They really came on after the haying. Obviously the seed was there already, but I had not seen many due to the thickness of the fescue and clover. I have patches I have clipped early, that would otherwise be able to let grow if it wasn't for trying to keep the burrs knocked down too.

I may not have to do it every year. I have no experience to use for a reference for that.
 
its one of those years for everyone .weeds you may have not seen in 5 yrs or more will pop up and most of the time after the 2 cutting of hay most weeds dont become active untill july,most years fescue an such slow down growth wise enough to let the weeds pop through ,around here you can fined an old 200 gallon pull type for aprox 250 too 800. set an almost ready to go .1987 friend had a place he let me run 11 head 3 months on mostly queen ann lace an clover his dad ran mostly hogs set a few hay bales out ,overseeded with hand seeder just before i took the cows off let them walk it in . 5 yrs had alush pasture by rotateing 40 acres by 5 yr it held almost 30 head for 4 months. an i just spot spray the most deadly weeds
 
You could run a small goat heard behind the cattle. Put them on after you move the cows off, and let them get the weeds for you. Could be extra income vs being a cost(spraying).
 
BrandX":2qs5e5on said:
You could run a small goat heard behind the cattle. Put them on after you move the cows off, and let them get the weeds for you. Could be extra income vs being a cost(spraying).

I suspect that the single strand wire(while effective for holding back an Arkie out of TX) will not be enough to hold the goats. :D
 
Talltimber, I have found that each year I have more grass and less weeds. I only rotate once a week and stockpile for the winter but doing the soil tests to get things right in the soil has made a huge difference. You cant get it all perfect the first couple of years.
 
BrandX":jsbirfkf said:
You could run a small goat heard behind the cattle. Put them on after you move the cows off, and let them get the weeds for you. Could be extra income vs being a cost(spraying).


If my fences would hold them I'd go this route in a heartbeat. I noticed my father in laws pasture just today. No cows. Just goats. No weeds. I mean zero. Better than any herbicide that I know of. When he had cows in the same pasture without the goats he had weeds. Plus you can get a little income from the goats.
 
JMJ Farms":suh3ua8l said:
BrandX":suh3ua8l said:
You could run a small goat heard behind the cattle. Put them on after you move the cows off, and let them get the weeds for you. Could be extra income vs being a cost(spraying).


If my fences would hold them I'd go this route in a heartbeat. I noticed my father in laws pasture just today. No cows. Just goats. No weeds. I mean zero. Better than any herbicide that I know of. When he had cows in the same pasture without the goats he had weeds. Plus you can get a little income from the goats.



There's big $money in goats right now. The only good thing about a goat is they have a built in handle.
 
I run a few goats with the heifers....they do help with the weeds...

my goats are used to electric fence and will usually honor two wires....but normally they just stay with the heifers.
 
True Grit Farms":9sjn2l1h said:
JMJ Farms":9sjn2l1h said:
BrandX":9sjn2l1h said:
You could run a small goat heard behind the cattle. Put them on after you move the cows off, and let them get the weeds for you. Could be extra income vs being a cost(spraying).


If my fences would hold them I'd go this route in a heartbeat. I noticed my father in laws pasture just today. No cows. Just goats. No weeds. I mean zero. Better than any herbicide that I know of. When he had cows in the same pasture without the goats he had weeds. Plus you can get a little income from the goats.



There's big $money in goats right now. The only good thing about a goat is they have a built in handle.

I agree TG. I don't like them much myself. On the other hand my father in law loves them. Sounds like we need to make a deal! Or I could accidentally let the cows in the goat pasture.
 
When I had an opportunity to discuss my grazing with Greg Judy he advised me to put all the stock together and graze em all together for the maximum effect....

I said I couldn't do that as my big mare like to herd stuff too much and she would put everything thru the fences...

his advice was to get rid of the horse...

I keep the horses on one side and the goats and the cattle on the other and sometimes switch sides to assist in weed control. Oddly horses and donkeys will eat a lot of stuff that the cattle and goats do not eat.

big win is that rotational grazing I have not bought any lime or fertilizer in eight years now and still have better grass than I did eight years ago.
 
Buying goats are big money. My kids want a couple goats. I thought they would be cheap. One of my buddies is buying 70 head to run with about 90 head of cattle. He continuous grazes, not sure how that will work out.
 
Dave,

If they run with the cattle they should be okay but goats and sheep alone need something to protect them from predators. be it guard dogs or standard or mammoth donkeys or llama. I would expect it is worse where you are than where I am....I have a buddy who has a lot of sheep and goats...he has dogs with the goats and a big old longhorn cow who hates canines of all types in with the sheep.
 
I have always done some rotational grazing. Dad did it with his one steer per year. But it wasn't very intense rotation. Back in 1999 the job sent me to a week long grazing workshop. It was both class room and field visits. About that time I was working with a couple dairy farmers who were great pasture managers so I was learning from watching them. I figured if I was going to be telling people to do this I should do it at home first. I started doing IPM. Short story is that once I got that program going I had to buy more cows. Same amount of land but a whole lot more grass.
 

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