CowboyRam
Well-known member
Does anyone have a trick for removing stubborn roll pins. I have one on my plow that just doesn't want to come out. I did put some PB Blaster on it yesterday and today. It is rusted in there pretty good.
I had one on PTO shaft, oiled it everyday for bout 10 days, tried driving back and forth, not much luck. Had a guy tell me to use a "roll pin punch" on, I honestly did not know there was such a thing. I found a set at a local tool store. We heated it up and drove the pin out with the punch. Have not used one of those punches since. But it was worth it to get the shaft fixed.Does anyone have a trick for removing stubborn roll pins. I have one on my plow that just doesn't want to come out. I did put some PB Blaster on it yesterday and today. It is rusted in there pretty good.
transmission fluid and acetone works better, mix it 50 50, let it sit and use a punch to knock it out, might also try a little heatDoes anyone have a trick for removing stubborn roll pins. I have one on my plow that just doesn't want to come out. I did put some PB Blaster on it yesterday and today. It is rusted in there pretty good.
What does a roll pin punch look like? Maybe it was the heat that did the trick.I had one on PTO shaft, oiled it everyday for bout 10 days, tried driving back and forth, not much luck. Had a guy tell me to use a "roll pin punch" on, I honestly did not know there was such a thing. I found a set at a local tool store. We heated it up and drove the pin out with the punch. Have not used one of those punches since. But it was worth it to get the shaft fixed.
It is a straight shaft punch, not tapered, at least part of the way. The secret is to find a punch almost the exact same size as the hole diameter, just a fuzz smaller, and it takes a sharp blow with the hammer to get it started moving. A standard, tapered punch runs the risk of mushrooming the pin, making it harder to get out. Heat and penetrating oil can also help. Drilling out is difficult at best, torching out is a last resort, be careful to not damage the shaft, take time to heat the pin first.What does a roll pin punch look like? Maybe it was the heat that did the trick.
Ken
It is a straight shaft punch, not tapered, at least part of the way. The secret is to find a punch almost the exact same size as the hole diameter, just a fuzz smaller, and it takes a sharp blow with the hammer to get it started moving. A standard, tapered punch runs the risk of mushrooming the pin, making it harder to get out. Heat and penetrating oil can also help. Drilling out is difficult at best, torching out is a last resort, be careful to not damage the shaft, take time to heat the pin first.
Harbor Freight has an inexpensive set of chisels and punches that includes about 6 flat headed non tapered punchesThis is accurate. The punch needs to be completely flat/blunt on the end. You don't want something that will spread the pin apart like a wedge.
An air hammer works wonderfully to get them moving.

We are huge fans of LDL 1 all-purpose penetrant and dielectric lubricant and LDL2 Industrial oil. Both clean up rust and corrosion. I think LDL 2 is better in stick oil parts. You spray on, tap around, let set for 10 minutes or more. If it still won't budget let set a couple of hours, re-apply. I would di this a few times tapping each time and wait 24 hours. It should definitely come off. We use PB B laster as well but for the really rusted and stuck pieces this is our go to. It is made by Tripak.Does anyone have a trick for removing stubborn roll pins. I have one on my plow that just doesn't want to come out. I did put some PB Blaster on it yesterday and today. It is rusted in there pretty good.