Replacing valve cover gasket tips

[pricefarm]

Been working on my 6610 ford and figured while I had the front end apart and the good it would be a good time to replace the valve cover gasket. It leaks some oil not a lot just enough to make it look bad. Any tips on installing a new one I have never done it before. Is it better to use that blue silicone gasket glue or just use the gasket itself?

 

[Kingfisher]

Cork or rubber gasket? Maybe a little silicone in the crners and around the bolt holes

 

[pricefarm]

Cork or rubber gasket? Maybe a little silicone in the crners and around the bolt holes

Not for sure ordered it from new holland today

 

[dun]

I use goop of some sort on all gaskets. Got some old Permatex brown stuff in can, apply it with a brush. I've had that same little can for 40 plus years, stuff still works good. Others I use spray Permatex high temp copper stuff.

 

[True Grit Farms]

I'd glue the gasket to the valve cover with some 3M weather strip adhesive first. Then put a very light coat of silicone on the gasket and install.

 

[tom4018]

Probably should adjust the valves while you have the cover off.

 

[Nesikep]

Tom has a good point.. adjust the valves while you're in there... if the front main seal is accessible, I'd do that one now as well.

For gaskets, I like to put copper never-seize on one side (block side, cork gaskets only) and a THIN smear of Permatex Ultra Gray on the valve cover side ... I find blue silicone worthless.
The never seize on the block side helps it come off in one piece should you ever need to take it off.

I don't know the exact design, but PAY ATTENTION to the torque specs!!.. Most cork gaskets are just snugged, while the formed rubber ones that fit in a groove will be torqued more (the gasket doesn't hold the valve cover, the valve cover sits directly on the head).

 

[lavacarancher]

Personally I use some sort of gasket sealer on everything but I guess my favorite is the weatherstrip cement in yellow or black. I call that stuff yellow (or black) death. It's a beach to get off if you ever have to remove the cover but it almost never leaks. Apply the sealer to the parts, put the gasket in place and install the part. Do not tighten the bolts, just put the bolts in the holes and let the sealer dry for a few minutes before torquing them down. The gasket will squeeze out from between the two parts if you don't let the sealer dry a little while before torquing. Rubber gaskets are especially bad about that.

 

[John SD]

I'd probably use a thin layer of silicone on both the head and the valve cover, but I would use red hi-temp silicone, not the blue stuff. Let the silicone cure a bit before you put the gasket on and tighten uniformly. :idea:

 

[tom4018]

Tom has a good point.. adjust the valves while you're in there... if the front main seal is accessible, I'd do that one now as well.

For gaskets, I like to put copper never-seize on one side (block side, cork gaskets only) and a THIN smear of Permatex Ultra Gray on the valve cover side ... I find blue silicone worthless.
The never seize on the block side helps it come off in one piece should you ever need to take it off.

I don't know the exact design, but PAY ATTENTION to the torque specs!!.. Most cork gaskets are just snugged, while the formed rubber ones that fit in a groove will be torqued more (the gasket doesn't hold the valve cover, the valve cover sits directly on the head).

Ultra Gray or Ultra Black are both good choices to use on the valve cover side. I have been turning wrenches for over 30 years and never tried the anti seize trick on cork gaskets, will have to try it.

Like Nesikep says be careful and don't over tighten the bolts squeezing the gasket out.

 

[pricefarm]

Any idea what the torque on them should be

 

[pricefarm]

Probably should adjust the valves while you have the cover off.

U have me lost on that. Any good how to videos online?

 

[dun]

There is probably a video on youtube, also some place on the net there will be the information on torque setings

 

[Nesikep]

Contact the dealer and have them send you the page or two of the manual that deals with valve adjustment.. It's probably something like .008" on intake and .014" on the exhaust (most diesels are in that range), on a 4 cylinder you do valves on #1 when both valves on #4 are tight, and vice versa, and valves on 2 when the valves on 3 are tight, and vice versa. On a 6 cylinder it's 1 and 6, 2 and 5, then 3 and 4.
I loosen the locknut, back off the adjuster a little, insert feeler gauge, tighten adjuster finger tight to contact, then tighten locknut and recheck.

 

[pricefarm]

If the valves are not adjusted correctly what harm would that cause ?

 

[tom4018]

If the valves are not adjusted correctly what harm would that cause ?

Loss of power, noise and even valve damage to name a few things.