Would it make a difference if the sap is up or down on how long it takes a cedar stump to rot away? Other wise will the time of year that you cut/shear them make any difference on how long it takes for the snag to rot?
red cedar tree removal
- Thread starter BRYANT
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skyhightree1
Well-known member
All the trees I remove I grind the stumps and or bull doze them so im not of any help to you there.
Silver
Well-known member
Take your 3pt hitch post hole auger and drill a hole in the stump. Then you can either let the rain and weather rot it, or fill it full of tannerite or your choice of powder and end it quick!
Ebenezer
Well-known member
Don't think so. Will take about as long to rot as a fence post lasts so 7 to 30 years. Want them gone then push or pull up or let roots rot a few years and tip stump out. Probably our #1 weed.BRYANT":1lm6hakz said:
ga.prime
Well-known member
Cedar slow to rot. About like black cherry.
They'll rot quicker then you think with all the roots in the ground pulling moisture. Most of the cedars growing in pastures have a lot of white colored wood which roots faster then the red colored wood.
I ask because I have some on the same place that were cut at different times and it seems to take longer for some. I have one up by a rent house that was sawed about 7 years ago 8'' above the ground and its still solid. I have some more that was cut with a shear back in April that are rotten enough that they come out easy. I have contacted the Noble foundation they are going to have some one call me in a few days that they said should know more about Cedar removal than the man I talked to. My thinking is if sap is down the root system will be more like what a pine knot would be and take a long time to rot ???? May not matter at all but its something to think on
Silver
as for the drill and tannerite I am talking SEVERAL HUNDRED of them
Silver
as for the drill and tannerite I am talking SEVERAL HUNDRED of them
We had a cedar stump that was cut at least 15 years ago because it was here when we bought the farm. It was about 18 inches in diameter. Every year I would smack it with the tractor bucket and it wouldn't budge. This year I brush hogged past it and got close enough that I brushed against it and it popped out of the ground all shattered.
True Grit Farms
Well-known member
Maybe shearing the cedars shattered the growth rings and let moisture in to rot the stump?
I even wondered if shear vs. sawing may have had something to do with it.True Grit Farms":ncczv0us said:
I am fixing to shear a few hundred here in the next couple months, so I have been kind of thinking on the matter for the last few days.
dun; is your cedars the same as these little red cedars in Okla. because very few of our will get to 18''. They will grow a lot larger if you trim the branches up from the bottom for several feet. I talked to a saw mill and was told there is a market for them if they are large enough. This place I am fixing to shear is not even fenced so about all I do with it is hunt on it. I even thought about trimming up a bunch of the bigger one and see if I could make them marketable. I know it would take time before they would be big enough and I am planning to fence it, even bought the pipe for the corners a few days back. Would be nice if the was a way to make money off them.
callmefence
Keyboard cowboy
BRYANT":8ozyv6hg said:
Cedar chopping is a hard way to make a little money....bought like picking up aluminium cans.
We always try to push the stumps out. On the ones that won't budge we push the brush around em and burn em. I've been discing a field and their coming right out. I cut em flush to the ground...30 years ago.
I sure don't want to hire out shearing cedars I am only doing it on my own place. If they are not real big I just start to shear them , then I just spin the skidloader and it rips them out roots and all, everything else is cut smooth or slightly below ground level. BUT if I am going to remove them and could make a few dollars off them that would be nice.callmefence":232ysj4l said:
callmefence
Keyboard cowboy
BRYANT":2tj28gmt said:
Sure..
Around here some of the old growth post say 12' with a 10" top and really straight may bring 15.00
Imo the easiest money is when the mill is taking stays. Last time it got slow enough to chop cedar. Me and two guys cut close to 1000 stays in a day.
They paid .85 for yard grade and .60 for wire grade.
From a MO state forester
" Since cedar is rot resistant it is slow. The sapwood rots quicker but the heartwood is rot resistant. That is why it is used for fence posts. Best to just cut it as low as possible so you can mow over it."
" Since cedar is rot resistant it is slow. The sapwood rots quicker but the heartwood is rot resistant. That is why it is used for fence posts. Best to just cut it as low as possible so you can mow over it."
We have a couple of places on this farm that were originally cut over a 100 years ago and have been abandoned since then. Terrain is just to rough to get into and use, but the deer love it. There are a couple of trees that are over 2 foot in diameter but those split into multiple trunks a couple of feet above the ground. For posts here to sell the have to be a minimum of 4 inches at the small end and 8 foot long. Only one place around that buys them so I just cut them and use them myselfBRYANT":25m53ro6 said:
When I cleared another farm I used a shear and cut them just below ground level. The biggest pain was pushing them to a pile to burn. The grass in the area I cut is really pretty nice but it's almost impossible to get to with a truck because of the oak scrub that came up in place of the cedars.BRYANT":261wqc10 said:
