Re-seeding a thinning hay field

[MShaffer]

I am in southern Indiana. Last year, we had a bad freeze in late April and no rain in the summer. The year was very rough on our half alfalfa and half orchard grass hay field and the stand of really thin.

This will be the third summer we have owned the place. We have had the soil tested every year and applied the lime and fertilizer indicated by the tests.

This field will be planted with crops in 2010. Maybe 2009 if we can’t get the yield up.

I am thinking about using a drill and putting in some more orchard grass to try and improve the yield for the next two years. I realize the percentage of alfalfa will fall off.

Will the drill hurt or kill the existing alfalfa? I found something claiming the seed will germinate between 68-86 F. If we seed at a lower temperature, how long can the seed lay in the ground without rotting? When should we put in the orchard grass?

 

[bandit80]

I am in southern Indiana. Last year, we had a bad freeze in late April and no rain in the summer. The year was very rough on our half alfalfa and half orchard grass hay field and the stand of really thin.

This will be the third summer we have owned the place. We have had the soil tested every year and applied the lime and fertilizer indicated by the tests.

This field will be planted with crops in 2010. Maybe 2009 if we can’t get the yield up.

I am thinking about using a drill and putting in some more orchard grass to try and improve the yield for the next two years. I realize the percentage of alfalfa will fall off.

Will the drill hurt or kill the existing alfalfa? I found something claiming the seed will germinate between 68-86 F. If we seed at a lower temperature, how long can the seed lay in the ground without rotting? When should we put in the orchard grass?

I am not a forage expert, but your orchard grass should germinate at a lower temperature than that. It is a cool season grass, and should germinate as low as 50 F I believe.

Something I have seen work really well is to kill/destroy a portion of the grass each year and start over, doing it in stages. Easiest thing to do is plant wheat in the fall after killing the existing grass and preparing seed bed. Will want to do soil tests, but sounds like your fertility is probably pretty good. No-till does not work as well, so it would be better to till the soil. After the wheat is harvested the following summer, you can again prepare the seedbed and drill your grass and legume in early fall. You can even plant wheat over the top to hold the soil if need be, just use lighter planting rates. Then you can either harvest the wheat again, or just let it be. Your grass should be good again. This takes about 2 years to get the grass re-established, but still creates some revenue with the wheat.

EDIT: I went back and read your post again. My plan is for pasture. If it is a hay field, you can do it all at once because you don't have to worry about taking away ALL of your grazing acres. You can also cut the wheat for hay as opposed to seed, thus not losing any hay.

 

[dyates]

The drill shouldn't hurt the alfalfa, especially if it hasn't broken dormancy yet. You might also consider adding some red clover to the mix to keep more legume in the stand. Alfalfa, of course, can't follow alfalfa, but the clover will do fine. I prefer to seed in May, but by then your alfalfa will be tall enough to be damaged by the drill/traffic. I would seed ASAP.

 

[ksl1]

We have frost seeded red clover in early March. This worked real well for us a few years ago. Late frost last year hurt everything. Can you over-seed pasture with orchard grass and have much success?