problem w/ 4000 ford pwr steering/charging problems

[rjk]

Steering started getting harder and harder on 4000, and was blowing fluid out fill cap. Cleaned filter on weekend to see if it would help until new filter could be bought. Changed filter and was fine for about 30 minutes, then seems to get rough again. Fluid was low again, but I cannot find a leak. It is a 1972 model, and the pump mounts horizontally. Can this be leaking into the motor? I don't know if I can purchase a rebuilt pump, or if I need to take it in. Any ideas?? Also this tractor was converted from a generator to an alternator, (before I purchased it), and had to jump start this weekend, battery was bought this spring, and if I remember correctly voltage at battery when tractor was running was right at 12 vdc. Shouldn't there be about 13.5 vdc? Thanks for any comments.
rick

 

[cfpinz]

Yes, the power steering pump often leaks into the crankcase thru the front seal. You should be able to see an elevated level of motor oil. We run hydraulic fluid in the power steering systems, standard ps oil is a no-no. The pumps are available from your NH dealer but be ready for sticker shock. The kits are also available to rebuild them yourself, much cheaper alternative.

I had a wiring diagram laying around somewhere to retrofit an alternator on one of those models but don't have a clue where it's at now. Last one I did for myself was over 10 years ago, tractor is long gone now. Talk to the service manager at your NH dealership and I'm sure he/she can fix you up.

cfpinz

 

[rjk]

I am using 134d in the power steering, the same fluid that is in transmission and hydrallic system, per specs from dealer. Will call and find out how bad the price will be, may try to rebuild myself. Thanks,
Rick

 

[hurleyjd]

I am using 134d in the power steering, the same fluid that is in transmission and hydrallic system, per specs from dealer. Will call and find out how bad the price will be, may try to rebuild myself. Thanks,
Rick

Take the pump off, you can install the seal. Or take to the dealer it is less than an hour to install seal. Worse case is the shaft may have a groove wore in it from the seal, if so find a good bearing store and buy a jiffy sleeve and install on the shaft. A jiffy sleeve is a thin stainless steel cylinder that will fit tight on the shaft and let the seal seal again.

 

[hurleyjd]

I am using 134d in the power steering, the same fluid that is in transmission and hydrallic system, per specs from dealer. Will call and find out how bad the price will be, may try to rebuild myself. Thanks,
Rick

Take the pump off, you can install the seal. Or take to the dealer it is less than an hour to install seal. Worse case is the shaft may have a groove wore in it from the seal, if so find a good bearing store and buy a jiffy sleeve and install on the shaft. A jiffy sleeve is a thin stainless steel cylinder that will fit tight on the shaft and let the seal seal again.

Correction the sleeve is a speedi sleeve, here is a site that explains the use of them. http://www.worldpath.net/~thompson/acb/seal/speedi.htm

 

[flaboy]

I think I am loosing the PS pump on my 3400 which has almost the same pump. They are not cheap.

As for charging, yes you should have over 13vdc when charging. They usually run over 13.5 but many folks put auto alternators on low rpm tractors and you don't get as much charging power. I have one on an old massey that you have to get over 1500RPM before the charging kicks in. Once it kicks in it will stay charging even at lower rpm's.

Start it up, put a dc meter across the battery, run it up to about 1500 rpm and see what it says. Another thing is, short running times will often not recharge the battery properly.

 

[hurleyjd]

I think I am loosing the PS pump on my 3400 which has almost the same pump. They are not cheap.

As for charging, yes you should have over 13vdc when charging. They usually run over 13.5 but many folks put auto alternators on low rpm tractors and you don't get as much charging power. I have one on an old massey that you have to get over 1500RPM before the charging kicks in. Once it kicks in it will stay charging even at lower rpm's.

Start it up, put a dc meter across the battery, run it up to about 1500 rpm and see what it says. Another thing is, short running times will often not recharge the battery properly.

A lot of folks installed the one wire alt. They are hard to keep going IMO. I like to install the three wire they are not any more complicated than the one wire. I think that the 4000 Ford tractor may have had a voltage requlater some where in the circuit. Here is a link to New Holland parts. The parts catalog is searchgable by model number and you can review what may have been on the tractor originally.

 

[flaboy]

I think I am loosing the PS pump on my 3400 which has almost the same pump. They are not cheap.

As for charging, yes you should have over 13vdc when charging. They usually run over 13.5 but many folks put auto alternators on low rpm tractors and you don't get as much charging power. I have one on an old massey that you have to get over 1500RPM before the charging kicks in. Once it kicks in it will stay charging even at lower rpm's.

Start it up, put a dc meter across the battery, run it up to about 1500 rpm and see what it says. Another thing is, short running times will often not recharge the battery properly.

A lot of folks installed the one wire alt. They are hard to keep going IMO. I like to install the three wire they are not any more complicated than the one wire. I think that the 4000 Ford tractor may have had a voltage requlater some where in the circuit. Here is a link to New Holland parts. The parts catalog is searchgable by model number and you can review what may have been on the tractor originally.

Ok, hurley, where's the link to NH? :lol: I have the 3-wire on my 3400 and a voltage regulator. The 1-wire unit has an intermal regulator if memory serves me right.

 

[hurleyjd]

I think I am loosing the PS pump on my 3400 which has almost the same pump. They are not cheap.

As for charging, yes you should have over 13vdc when charging. They usually run over 13.5 but many folks put auto alternators on low rpm tractors and you don't get as much charging power. I have one on an old massey that you have to get over 1500RPM before the charging kicks in. Once it kicks in it will stay charging even at lower rpm's.

Start it up, put a dc meter across the battery, run it up to about 1500 rpm and see what it says. Another thing is, short running times will often not recharge the battery properly.

A lot of folks installed the one wire alt. They are hard to keep going IMO. I like to install the three wire they are not any more complicated than the one wire. I think that the 4000 Ford tractor may have had a voltage requlater some where in the circuit. Here is a link to New Holland parts. The parts catalog is searchgable by model number and you can review what may have been on the tractor originally.

Ok, hurley, where's the link to NH? :lol: I have the 3-wire on my 3400 and a voltage regulator. The 1-wire unit has an intermal regulator if memory serves me right.

http://www.newholland.com/h4/parts_serv ... 0001294003

 

[rjk]

Haven't had a chance to get back and read the posts, but I pulled the pwr steering pump and took it to a dealer to be rebuilt. Just as you said, $49.00 for a rebuild kit, and about an hour of shop labor to rebuild. Having them go through it so I don't have to play with this again, have hay to load, and pastures to mow. As for alternator, I believe it is 1 wire, and the voltage I saw was low. Charged battery, and realized how slow it was turning. Will finish this part once pump is reinstalled and the oil and filter changed. Thanks again for your comments.
rick