Tried to upload from my computer to the gallery. Did not work. I have them in photobucket and I have no idea how to post them with a message. Please help a simpleton. Maybe once I learn it will be easy. There are four photos when I learn can I transfer all or will it be one at a time.
Photos Tifton 85
- Thread starter hurleyjd
- Start date
hurleyjd":2v9pkxwx said:
Okay I think I have it. I did not get to spray for the seedling bahai. You can see the Tifton it is a darker green. The rest is Bahai. I plowed several times. I think from now on I will just take care of the bahai in the other pastures and quit trying to establish anything else.
Jogeephus
Well-known member
Bahai is a tough grass. I got a lot more respect for it after seeing how it did during this years drought.
Since you brush on this, I'd like to pose a question. I was told bahia will be damaged by Atrazine yet have seen Atrazine sprayed on bermuda with no ill effects. If this is true, do you think Atrazine could be used to release bermuda in bahia grass. Just wondering.
Since you brush on this, I'd like to pose a question. I was told bahia will be damaged by Atrazine yet have seen Atrazine sprayed on bermuda with no ill effects. If this is true, do you think Atrazine could be used to release bermuda in bahia grass. Just wondering.
farmerjohn
Well-known member
Looks like it needs some nitrogen, its not dark green.
I was waiting until the tifton is more established and then will apply nitergeon and more potash. This is what the soil test called for. Just as soon as we can get across the ground I will have it sprayed with cimmeron which is the same as ally. My wife and I drove around the other pastures this afternoon. I told her that from now own I would manage the existing grasses and forget about any tifton or other high powered grass. Most of the pasture has bahai common bermuda, some costal and some jiggs from the time my father owned some of this land. I have rye grass that comes without reseeding, yellow hop clover, hairy vetch, perision clover, crimson, and arrowleaf clover. All of this just happens.farmerjohn":iokn0zz9 said:
farmerjohn
Well-known member
I thought that you would apply the N when the Tifton was sprigged so that the sprigs would grow fast. Are you going to use the Cimmaron to kill other grasses and weeds before you fertilize the Tifton?
farmerjohn":3hez8hgc said:
According to the Overton Experiment station it is best to apply the nitergeon after the tifton has established a good root system and is greening up very well. It is about time, but I would like to knock the bahai back before feritlizing to prevent and further competition. Bahai is the only real weed that I am trying to control. There is a few patchs of barnyard grass here and there but not any thing to worry about.
Here are so more photos:
Another
another
Jogeephus
Well-known member
I've never had to deal with that much bahai in a sprigged field. I always Roundup the field with 1 gal/ac in late summer. Retreat any sprouts after I harrow and level. Sprig then pack then spray with 2,4-d immediately after sprigging. With rain, I usually get at least two cuttings of hay. I would think the 85 is gonna have a hard job pegging down with that much bahia grass in the field. Runners need to run on dirt. Have also used a foliar fertilizer called "Awaken" to aid in root growth.
BC
Well-known member
Well it is like closing the gate on cattle after they are out, but this field should have been sprayed last fall to kill out the bahia before srigging this spring. We use Diurex 4L at sprigging to control weeds and crabgrass at the time of sprigging.
Your only option now is to wait until 2 months after sprigging and spray with Cimmarron or a generic.
Your only option now is to wait until 2 months after sprigging and spray with Cimmarron or a generic.
back40
Member
Can a pasture exist with a combination of tifton and bahia without one crowding out the other? During the drought the bahia saved us so I don't want to eliminate it totally. Since we only graze our pastures that include both grasses and do not bale what would the harm be in letting the two coexist?
back40":1o3ap2zo said:
When water and fertilizer requirements lend themselves better towards one than the other, it will prevail.
It's usually the bahia that wins out. It has less need for calcium (PH), potassium, nitrogen, etc.
Here is a photo of a grassey weed in the Tifton 85 that I sprigged a month and a half ago. I thought it was pensecola bahai wish it was. Can any one tell me what it is and can it be controlled with any herbicide that you know off.
I think that is nut grass. I dont know what would be good to get rid of it. I have been using grazon and last year it seems like the grazon did not do much good getting rid of it. I have not really noticed this year since i sprayed to see if i still have alot of nut grass growing or not.
Horticattleman
Well-known member
That is nutsedge. A herbicide to get rid of it goes by the trade name "sedgehammer." Used to be Manage I think. Someone (I think MikeC) was saying earlier that there was a much cheaper brand with the same chemical, but I don't remember. Any of these herbicides to control Nutsedge has a delayed reaction. It takes a few weeks to show signs.
I have just spent the last hour or so trying to find out what sedge grass this is. This best I can come up with is flat sedge. There are no tubers as on the nutsedge.Horticattleman":2dl9a5xs said:
Horticattleman
Well-known member
Two main kinds of nutsedge: Purple and Yellow
Purple (cyperus rotunus L.) has several nutlets connected together like chains. Darker Green
Yellow (cyperus esculentis) has single nutlets not connected. Make more of a ball shaped seed head. Lighter green.
Looks like you have the Yellow. Both are from the same family as Egyptian Papyrus.
Purple (cyperus rotunus L.) has several nutlets connected together like chains. Darker Green
Yellow (cyperus esculentis) has single nutlets not connected. Make more of a ball shaped seed head. Lighter green.
Looks like you have the Yellow. Both are from the same family as Egyptian Papyrus.
According to Dr.Evers at the Overton experiment station, I can use a herbicide by the name of Maverick to control the nutgrass. I have ordered it 20 ounces cost $370.00. So it will cost $20 per acre to treat. This will also take care of any Bahia Johnson grass and some other weeds. If the weather permits I will spray some time next week.
