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jt

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i am in the process of building a hay shed, about 45x48'x15' walls. it is sided with tin on both sides and half the back. legs are anywhere from 4-6" pipe. it is braced at every post, but with the front being totally open and the back half open, it still has a little shake to it from side to side. if i get on top of the building and shake it i can tell it gives a little side to side on the totally opened front. front to back is sturdy because of the tin on the sides. how much of this is normal? i have built a good bit of stuff before, but nothing of this height and with this much opening. so i am trying to figure out what to do next if anything.

thanks

jt
 
How much of the pipe is in the ground and are they concreted in ? It sounds like something I would be worried about too .

Larry
 
structural strength is the sum of all parts tied together , you need more parts. You probably don't need the whole 45 foot front open , put in some very anchored structure on the open corners and in the middle of the open section to stiffen up the corners and provide some sway resistance. Install tie straps , X bracing on all of the rest of the structure if you haven't already. You can use metal straps or lumber. Small braces in the corners don't get it done , go from top to bottom of the frame.additionally , blocking , or bracing that runs between all of your "studs" will stiffen it up. If all that fails spray it down with Viagra !
 
I was thinking that too . If you could return the corners on the open end it would help a lot, and the X bracing will help .

Larry
 
I need 11' clearance for my tractors and equipment. Figure the height you need for yours, header it off and sheet the gable ends. Add the wind brace on the open corners as kscowbov and larryshoat.
 
That is the nature of that design. IF your posts are set good, every thing is welded up good, then I wouldn't worry about it.

THe only thing that will sturdy it up more is putting braces where you have open areas, that is not an option, X bracing what is solid already won't help the side to side motion.
 
all post are on a pad with a 12x12" base, with 18" anchor bolts into the pad. on the open end there is a post on each corner that has a brace from pad to top with about a 20-22" spread at the top. i have not welded anything between these 2 pipes yet, but plan to. there is also a brace on a 45 about 4' from the top connecting to a pipe that i have running along the top to tie them together in addition to the purlins. the center post has only the 45's at the top bracing it.

the only thing i could think of was like one of you said, was to drop down and put a run of tin from the top to about 11'.

i see open barns everywhere without much of any bracing. it seems to me that they would have to have some give to them.


jt
 
I have been in the construction biz for 35 years and have been on a lot of roofs. Most roofs will have a little sway to them no matter how they are braced. Just make sure the post to beams are tied off real good and maybe add some hurricane clips. Go to simpson.com and you will see the different tie downs that you can use. Some examples of tie downs.

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I would be very concerned with 12" of concrete in regards to depth. In your area of a deep frost line in the soil the concrete is not below your freeze/thaw line. You should be at least 30" into the ground to get below your freeze/thaw into the soil.
 
jt":35pk3l0u said:
the only thing i could think of was like one of you said, was to drop down and put a run of tin from the top to about 11'.

i see open barns everywhere without much of any bracing. it seems to me that they would have to have some give to them.
jt


The tin down to 11' would help if it makes you feel better.

We have done barns out of 2 7/8 that were just as tall and had no sides, no bracing, except for the top to hold the roof on.
 
I built a hay barn about 2 yrs. ago. It is 50X 70 X22 FT. It had some fwr to back play. We went in with cable and turn buckles and X the out sise walls and it stood up to 74 mph winds. Hope this helps.
 
Brute 23":gaxukzh3 said:
jt":gaxukzh3 said:
the only thing i could think of was like one of you said, was to drop down and put a run of tin from the top to about 11'.

i see open barns everywhere without much of any bracing. it seems to me that they would have to have some give to them.
jt


The tin down to 11' would help if it makes you feel better.

We have done barns out of 2 7/8 that were just as tall and had no sides, no bracing, except for the top to hold the roof on.

bet those barns had some sway to them. had a friend come by this evening and he said it looked good to him. he has several hay sheds and he didnt think mine would go anywhere. he liked it.

jt
 
how much do you think an x ing with cable from corner to corner at the top of each corner post would help? i thought about that, but kind of thought that might be of little to no value, figuring that the tin roof was taking care of that. ??


jt
 
jt":2qi901mj said:
how much do you think an x ing with cable from corner to corner at the top of each corner post would help? i thought about that, but kind of thought that might be of little to no value, figuring that the tin roof was taking care of that. ??


jt
None.
Top of post to bottom of next post would do the most good in both directions
The strength of the building will only be as good as the strength of the posts and how they are anchored into the ground without the use of some type of diagonal bracing or solid panel sides.
Wind load will be the largest factor effecting the strength without proper bracing.
Stability problems in a building are due mainly to horizontal loads such as those resulting from wind pressure.

Diagonal bracing is used to make framed walls and structures stiff. Long braces should preferably transfer the load with a tensile stress to avoid buckling. Braces are usually supplied in pairs, i.e., on both diagonals, so that one will always be in tension independent of wind direction.

If the framed wall is covered with a sheet material, like plywood, chipboard or metal sheets, the lateral forces on the frame can be counteracted by shear in the sheets. This design requires that the sheets to be securely fixed to the frame, both horizontally and vertically. The sheets must also be strong enough to resist buckling or failure through shear.
 
I think if I were you I'd brace it up some more . You've asked the question, which means you're thinking about it, and if you're like me when you're laying in bed at night every time you hear the wind howl a little you're gonna start thinking about that building . I think if for no other reason than piece of mind I would try to stiffen it up a little .

Larry
 

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