Metal Roofs

[Chuckie]

We have had metal roofs on barns for years and they do not leak. Had a barn built in the 40's and it did not leak at all until a tornado took it down. Now I have a horse barn that was built in the 80's and no leaks at all.

Now everyone is getting metal roofs and these roofers put the nails in the center of the metal and not on the ridges like the barns that never leaked. Now all these metal roof only hold for 10 years or less before the leaking starts.

People knew how to nail down to the washer where it just touched and not to mash the washer. The people putting up the metal just hold the drill down till they hear metal and the rubber washer is totally mashed down. The roofers say the company will not honor the warranty if it is put on the ridge.
I am hearing of people constantly having to get back on their roof to tighten down the screws, but they do not realize that the roof is already leaking there if the screws will not hold.

Such nice metal on my roof with so many holes in the flat areas and none in the ridges. I will have it removed and go back to a shingle roof that claims to last 30 years plus and will be lucky to get 20 years out of it. So with that calculations, I will be 88 years old. Or dead. Hopefully will live to be 100 years old and riding a horse.

Now I can take my holy metal and put it on the side of a barn or something as it cannot go back on the roof with so many holes punched in it. Sure was expensive. I will contact my insurance company to see if there is any coverage for this. I don't feel real assured that there will be since I was not in a tornado or major storm that ripped the roof off.

So if you are looking into putting a metal roof for a lifetime, they will not be installing it like the pros did years ago on your old barn. Be prepared to have it leak. Very disappointed as it is all in the installation. So many fly by night roofers now. Be sure to question how they put it on, and ask about all the leaks that are being reported now. Talked to several people and they all say the same thing. Not good.

 

[CowboyRam]

I have an old metal roof that was put on probably back in the sixties. It has become the bane of my existence. Those lead covered nails are all working out, and I have to get up there to screw it back down. If you have have problems with leakage it is probably because they over tightened the screws; it is very easy to do. Now I have seen roofs in cold climates sweat and develop condensation.

 

[RDFF]

If you use hidden fastener steel, you won't have any exposed fasteners. Yes, it's more expensive... but probably worth it. Will the fasteners "come loose", when hidden behind that panel? Maybe... the reason they come loose is because of expansion/contraction of the steel.

The better solution there would be to do like we did on our "home-built barns"......... we built everything out of oak (had our own sawmill on the farm, and our own woods). Once that stuff is dry, you're not likely to get anything to back out of the hole in the wood that the fastener made. We always built with it "green", or you'd never be able to get a nail driven into it without drilling first. And even then, you sure did learn how to drive a nail without bending it... and that IS DEFINITELY a skill that can be learned ONLY from experience. With pine/fir lumber, and OSB, about all you can do is "hope for the best" I guess! :)

 

[Silver]

Dad put tin on with the lead nails on the ridge, the nails eventually backed out and they leak. Touch wood, no leaks in any of our roofs with screws on the flat.

 

[wbvs58]

The installation specifications for all our roofing materials are for the screws to be on the ridges. When used for wall cladding the spec's are for the screws in the valleys. All our new houses now even if timber framed use steel tophat battens on the roof. Even in cyclone areas the spec's are to be screwed on the ridges, no problems with leaking or loosening off.
Have a look at the fixing specifications on the roofing manufactures web site to confirm if the installers are telling the truth Suzanne.

Ken

 

[CowboyRam]

Here is the specifications for installation from Metal Sales. If it has not been installed to their specifications they can refuse to warranty it.

https://www.metalsales.us.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Pro-Panel-II-Sell_Sheet-719.pdf

I have put Pro-Panel on a very flat roof without any leaks, but I also installed Ice & Water shield on the entire roof.

 

[Silver]

Here is the specifications for installation from Metal Sales. If it has not been installed to their specifications they can refuse to warranty it.

https://www.metalsales.us.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Pro-Panel-II-Sell_Sheet-719.pdf

I have put Pro-Panel on a very flat roof without any leaks, but I also installed Ice & Water shield on the entire roof.

specs look to be the same here.

https://www.metalworkscanada.com/wp...lworks-canada-metal-roofing-siding-manual.pdf

 

[Silver]

It looks like in Australia they use a lot of corrugated metal, not like our ribbed tin with wide flat valleys. Perhaps this is the reason for screwing on the top of the ribs.

 

[ClinchValley86]

Ive done both rib and flat... if installed correctly, screwing in the rib is my preferred method. Leaves the wster to run the flat to exit the roof. Get a bad washer on the flat and its going to have a lot of wster running over it.

I like using 2+ inch screws so there's plenty of hold. Gotta have a light trigger finger too.

Pre-drilled holes are better too in my mind. The self tapping screws leave a sliver of metal to cut into the rubber washer, potentially leaving water a path to enter.

I do think they look better when screwed in the flat. Just looks more neat.

 

[Little Joe]

I deal with metal roofs quite a bit between my rentals and our buildings at school. The standing seam is definitely the best option but more expensive, the only screws you’ll have then are at each end of the sheet. With standard metal roofs the manufacturer does require that the screws be put in the flats. The expanding and contracting of the metal and building will cause the screws to back out some over time, on a house I’d always lath the roof with 1x4 or 2x4 to screw to, plywood and osb are going to Waller out too much. Our warranties on the ones at the school state that the screws are to be retorqued annually. It’s best not to use an impact type drill but use a regular one instead and set the torque where it doesn’t over tighten. A good 4 tab shingles ( architectural) is definitely less maintenance if installed correctly, especially if you have valleys. I’ve had a lot of trouble with valleys leaking on metal roofs.

 

[Rafter S]

Dad put tin on with the lead nails on the ridge, the nails eventually backed out and they leak. Touch wood, no leaks in any of our roofs with screws on the flat.

A lot of people made the mistake of using lead head nails that were too short. They need to go completely through the boards or plywood. If they don't, then condensation will form on them, and it doesn't have any place to go, so the wood around the nails will rot. If they extend through the board then the bottom part can rust a little bit, and you can't pull them out.

 

[Chuckie]

Dad put tin on with the lead nails on the ridge, the nails eventually backed out and they leak. Touch wood, no leaks in any of our roofs with screws on the flat.

That old barn built in the 40's had the metal caps and they would fall off. The barn still did not leak as it had a huge hay loft and the hay and the floor stayed dry. Me, not knowing any better realized how soft they were when they tumbled down to the drip line, and would bite into them to bend them down. Many years later I realized they were made of lead. Just crazy. They worry about kids eating lead based paint, and I am chewing on the lead caps. It is a wonder that I can use the keyboard.

 

[Brute 23]

I had to put a roof on my house after Harvey and went back with shingles. There were way too many grey areas with metal and the price was outrageous. I did not see any additional value in it at all.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

Standing seam is the only way to go in my opinion.

For the northern folks the benefit to a metal room vs shingles is the snow slides off a metal roof with no need to shovel.

 

[greybeard]

I grew up in a home with corrugated 'tin' roof near Houston Tx. About every 4-5 years, it was up on that hot assed roof with 5 gal buckets of thick sloppy alum paint and a couple of household mops to 'paint' with...AFTER crawling around replacing lead headed nails.. One of the 'learning perks' I absolutely hated.

 

[Rafter S]

I had to put a roof on my house after Harvey and went back with shingles. There were way too many grey areas with metal and the price was outrageous. I did not see any additional value in it at all.

I put a metal roof on my house around 20 years ago. Unless a storm wrecks it the roof will outlive me, and maybe the next person who lives in it. I see a great deal of value in that.

 

[Chuckie]

The installation specifications for all our roofing materials are for the screws to be on the ridges. When used for wall cladding the spec's are for the screws in the valleys. All our new houses now even if timber framed use steel tophat battens on the roof. Even in cyclone areas the spec's are to be screwed on the ridges, no problems with leaking or loosening off.
Have a look at the fixing specifications on the roofing manufactures web site to confirm if the installers are telling the truth Suzanne.

Ken

Ken, It just shows that the idiots over here have an agenda. There has to be enough people raising he77 for running the screws down the center of the metal. Not sure what the warranty of the metal would be other than the finish. As they are not going to warranty how the person put the metal on. That is out of their control. I did not realize they had run the metal down the center at the time till they were finished. They put the metal up in one day. Chaps my azz. I put metal up on
I looked it up and the still sell tin roofing nails with rubber washers.

They are getting ready to put up another building here for hay and equipment, and I am going to tell them that I want the screws in the center of the ridges. None in the middle or the flat of the sheets. Lets see what kind of reaction I get.

 

[Brute 23]

I put a metal roof on my house around 20 years ago. Unless a storm wrecks it the roof will outlive me, and maybe the next person who lives in it. I see a great deal of value in that.

So in a perfect world it's a good buy?

 

[Chuckie]

Before they put that 80' X 40' foot shed here, I am going to tell them to put the screws in the center. All the supplies to build it are under plastic now. So, I must catch this before they start. I know they will not use nails as that would be unheard of with cordless drills available. I love my battery operated drill too, but not for this. But if I were doing it, they would be nailed on. I am sure I will hear some lip about it. But if I have to purchase all the screws to do this besides what I have in the supplies they have out here, I will do it. Deep down I know in 10 years water will be dripping from the roof on hay and equipment. No one will honor the roof leaking in 10 years. The mennonites that put it up do a great job. I feel they would put their tin up with it on the ridge as well. But they have to follow rules. If it cancels out the warranty on the roof, then so be it. I will call them tomorrow.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

Screwing/nailing into the ridge is like trying to tighten a spring together. You can't get the screw/nail tight and seat the washer without deforming the ridge and often times buckling the panel.

In the flat and not over tightened is typically best.

Look up ZXL Dome Cap screws. Their domed washer keeps the rubber from being squished out.