Metal pole barn trusses?
- Thread starter Bigfoot
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Caustic Burno
Well-known member
Don't know about yours my metal barn went through Rita,Ike and Harvey.
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bird dog
Well-known member
Its the sheets and the screws that give it the rigidity to survive the storms. Plus you need a cross brace on each wall. The trusses only hold the roof load. Make sure you have some bridging angles across the bottoms.
Hardin Farms
Well-known member
They're being thrown up left and right. By far the most popular building method these days. I don't know about longevity, but I do see some chicken houses that have some age on them still standing. Many of them were built with this type truss. Getting good lumber with them seems to be the key IMO. Most of the places that sell them use lumber that I'd want to to cull for a doghouse.
I still stand by red iron as being the superior way to construct any build/barn/shop.
Caustic Burno
Well-known member
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Bigfoot
Well-known member
Waisted everybody's time. Long talk with a guy that I do most of my building with talked me out of them.
Wasn't for structural reasons though. He don't like to build with them. He also talked me in to 64' x. 42'. Price difference isn't much and hold more hay. That's why I'm building it, so I'll go that way.
Wasn't for structural reasons though. He don't like to build with them. He also talked me in to 64' x. 42'. Price difference isn't much and hold more hay. That's why I'm building it, so I'll go that way.
Newberry Creek
Well-known member
One thing I have done on my hay storage is to mount metal trusses on the top row of the hay stack. I have gone from 3 on the bottom, 2 in the middle and one on the top to 3 bottom, 2 middle and 3 on the top. The top rows have the trusses that catch the hay rolls around the middle of the roll at each row end. I see if i have a picture. I can store much more hay with this set up.
Newberry Creek
Well-known member
These are rolls of peanut hay. They really need to be kept dry. The trusses that hold the top row together were bought cheaply off of craigs list.
Caustic Burno
Well-known member
I know insurance is much cheaper in my neighborhood with Farm Bureau on metal versus stick.
Very nice.
Can you stand the bales on end so they are in columns?
simme
Old Dumb Guy
My experience is to stack hay bales on end when storing under a roof. Like cans. They hold shape better, fit better, and more stable. Just turn them on end, spear them in the side and stack. But I have never handled peanut vine bales.
Newberry Creek
Well-known member
Never had any luck spearing bales from the side. Peanut hay roll is fairly loose and wants to fall apart if handled to much, but the cows love it and it is high in protien.
Definitely can't go wrong with bigger. If your like most folks you will find something to occupy the room. What color are you going with? Are you planning on buying a kit? We looked at the kits than called around priced for our own materials saved alot. Than again we have poor man's ways. Hired a few my husband's friends, brother, and neighbor they did it in a few days.
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Bigfoot
Well-known member
Ok probably gather materials at a half dozen different places. The guy I'll use works by the hour. Whatever me and the kids do, will just bring the labor bill down.
littletom
Well-known member
How big are your bales? Ours 5x5.5 barn in 44 wide barn fit really nice.
My old man said he saved closed to $4,000. He just went with trusses cause it was faster and cheaper than stick built. We get our metal at Dandi Systems. They have always been good to us. He price all the wood every at different places to find the cheapest and asked if some prices he was buying from would price match.
Why doesn't he like building with them? I've never used them, but have been looking at them pretty hard myself for the past few months and they're pretty attractive money and time-wise. I've set plenty of wooden trusses myself and these look like they'd be easier to handle with a smaller crew. Just not sure about setting the purlins up on edge and my ability to hit them with the screws....
OP
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Bigfoot
Well-known member
My thoughts exactly. I "think" he doesn't like the 2" x 4" turned on edge, with no lathes. Said its hard to walk on, and seems to him to be a lesser design. The more of them I look at, the better i like em though. Even gives you more wiggle room with your FEL. I may go a different direction........but, in 2006, a lost everything to a tornado. This paticular guy went to work for me for about a year and half full time. He worked very hard, I really consider him pivital in my comeback. He was about 19 or 20 years old at the time. Went out on his own after that. I really feel like I owe him my business.
wbvs58
Well-known member
Here is a barn I finished about 12 mths ago. It is all steel construction as are about 99% of sheds built in Australia. This one was in a kit and it went together very well. I have also built other sheds to my own design out of all steel with a bit of a saving but not as much as you would think. This barn is going to be my daughters horse barn so we wanted to get certification from the local authority and needed the drawings along with the engineers calculations and certificate for the wind rating where we are and it is a lot cheaper to get the off the shelf kit which comes with all this information ready to submit to council. They are very strong and can be rated to build in cyclone areas. I do feel the all steel sheds do lack a bit of character though compared to those with a bit of timber framing. I have started fitting out one side for stables, there will be 4 boxes down that side, centre alleyway then tack room, feed room, hosing bay down the other side. I am using all hardwood timber that I am milling myself from our place using a bit oversize for the posts etc to give it a bit of character, mortice and tenon joints for character and strength. I'm milling spotted gum, yellow box and yellow stringy bark for the panel planks.
The actual building is C section for uprights and rafters then tophat section spanning the 4 metres, very easy building.
Ken
The actual building is C section for uprights and rafters then tophat section spanning the 4 metres, very easy building.
Ken
