How to gentle a heifer

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J-LizH

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I have a 9 mth old Belted Galloway heifer. She seems to have a good disposition. The last few weeks I have gotten her to eat out of my hands and in a bucket and be able to brush her all over. Mess with her tail and touch her all over and even her utter area. Which is amazing considering we've gone through two hurricanes and things haven't been normal here. I now have a good halter on her with a 5 foot lead rope attached. I eventually want her to be a milker. What's my next step I've seen videos for people just tie them up on a rope and let them fuss it out. I'm trying to be as gentle as possible, but I'm at a loss as what would be the best thing to do. I'm 65 and would prefer not to get hurt, as my body doesn't heal like it used to. Any suggestions would be much appreciated, or videos or books. I have several books, but they haven't been too helpful. Usually if I have a problem, I come here forget advice.
Thanks in advance.
Jlizz
 

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J-LizH said:
I have a 9 mth old Belted Galloway heifer. She seems to have a good disposition. The last few weeks I have gotten her to eat out of my hands and in a bucket and be able to brush her all over. Mess with her tail and touch her all over and even her utter area. Which is amazing considering we've gone through two hurricanes and things haven't been normal here. I now have a good halter on her with a 5 foot lead rope attached. I eventually want her to be a milker. What's my next step I've seen videos for people just tie them up on a rope and let them fuss it out. I'm trying to be as gentle as possible, but I'm at a loss as what would be the best thing to do. I'm 65 and would prefer not to get hurt, as my body doesn't heal like it used to. Any suggestions would be much appreciated, or videos or books. I have several books, but they haven't been too helpful. Usually if I have a problem, I come here forget advice.
Thanks in advance.
Jlizz
Click to expand...
Do you have a donkey? Or access to one?
 
J-LizH said:
I have a 9 mth old Belted Galloway heifer. She seems to have a good disposition. The last few weeks I have gotten her to eat out of my hands and in a bucket and be able to brush her all over. Mess with her tail and touch her all over and even her utter area. Which is amazing considering we've gone through two hurricanes and things haven't been normal here. I now have a good halter on her with a 5 foot lead rope attached. I eventually want her to be a milker. What's my next step I've seen videos for people just tie them up on a rope and let them fuss it out. I'm trying to be as gentle as possible, but I'm at a loss as what would be the best thing to do. I'm 65 and would prefer not to get hurt, as my body doesn't heal like it used to. Any suggestions would be much appreciated, or videos or books. I have several books, but they haven't been too helpful. Usually if I have a problem, I come here forget advice.
Thanks in advance.
Jlizz
Click to expand...
First off I don't really know your location but I do know where the hurricanes have been. I'm glad you are ok and hope you didn't suffer much loss.
Sounds like you are already making good strides with her. If she was here I would leave her in a corral or confined area with her halter on. I leave the lead rope on (I have a dedicated one for dragging around as they get gross) and allow her to drag it around. She will quickly teach herself to give off the pressure. I watch and see how well they give when they step on the lead or it gets stuck on a feeder or.... When I feel like they are giving well on their own (usually a few days) I'll go in, pick up the lead rope and tie it to a sturdy post or panel (depending on calf size) and they will then teach themselves how to give off the pressure forward. Usually pretty quick at that point. It has worked well over the years. With stubborn ones it can take days or a week but they usually get it. For very stubborn ones that will take more than one tie season I'll wait till it's standing for a brief time (not fighting the rope) and then release to drag the rope till the next try.
Really cute heifer. Look forward to following how you both are doing together.
 
J-LizH said:
No. I sure don't. Why? I'm curious.
Click to expand...
People use donkeys to train foals and calves to lead. You put a surcingle on the donkey, and tie the foals or calf's lead to it, and just turn them out in a pen, arena, etc. A standard size donkey, can pull even a full grown horse or around like it is a lap dog. So, when the donkey decides to walk across the arena to water, whatever is tied to it will go, too. Or when it goes to the hay. Or to shade...whatever. The calf or foal learns very quickly how to release pressure..by going where the donkey wants to go. And you eliminate the danger of tying the young animal to a solid, unmoveable object. You can hook them up in the morning, and by the time it starts getting dark, the animal is pretty much broke to lead. If you have the time and patience, you can spend al day doing this yourself....teaching the animal to yield to pressure. Or, let the donkey do it for you, while you go do something else. You just need a gentle, well-broke donkey, preferably one that has done this before.
 
We also put a halter on them and let them train themselves to give in to the pressure when they step on the lead. I let them drag for a few days.
then, I put them in a small pen. I take hold of the rope and let them go where they want, just raising the rope over them if they turn around on you. They will find "their safe corner" and will stand quietly. I slowly start working my way closer. I use a showstick to reach them at a distance that won't frighten them. I use the showstick to scratch them in all the right itchy spots. Then I slowly get close enough to scratch with my hand.
You are already ahead of the game, being able to scratch your heifer now. Even if you don't normally, start giving her a little grain in a feed pan. Put the feed pan down in the same pen and let her eat. After a couple feedings, TIE the rope while she is quietly eating. Be sure it is something very sturdy. Be sure to wrap the rope around the pipe/board TWICE before you tie it. She may pull so hard, you will not be able to UNTIE the rope. If you wrap it around twice, it won't tighten down. Let her struggle a little - if she does. When she is quiet, untie her and give her some good scratches. After a couple successful eating while tied. Quietly (in the small pen) take the rope and tie her where she has been eating. Put the feed pan across the pen (now I'm talking like 10 x 10' pen). Untie her and quietly turn her around and walk her across the pen to her feed. Even if she doesn't "lead", it is such a small area, you will be able to get her turned and tied. She "should" want the grain.
As I said, you are ahead of the game, because she is not afraid of you touching her. I am 77 years old, female and about 125# and I can still work them this way. I never play tug of war. That's why you have a longer lead and SMALL pen. Even if you are not in "control", they never really know it. NEVER get ahold of the rope in an area that she can bolt and get away. If they ever pull the rope out of your hand and FLEE, you have double to work. They will always test you. I work them in the small pen until I can walk them around the little pen easily. Then, I put their grain in a different pen (or the alley) and make sure she sees it. Walk her out of the pen into the alley (be sure everything is shut up and she cannot get loose.) Slowly, start taking her for a little longer walk to reach her grain (always in some type of confinement.)
Let us know how you are doing. It really doesn't take long, especially a nice quiet one. Within a week, I can usually walk them from one pen to another.
Also, leave them tied longer each time. Eventually, you will tie their head UP and brush them. Never leave them tied loose and you try to handle them. You want them to know you are in control (you are the boss). They LOVE their scratches.
 
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Warren Allison said:
People use donkeys to train foals and calves to lead. You put a surcingle on the donkey, and tie the foals or calf's lead to it, and just turn them out in a pen, arena, etc. A standard size donkey, can pull even a full grown horse or around like it is a lap dog. So, when the donkey decides to walk across the arena to water, whatever is tied to it will go, too. Or when it goes to the hay. Or to shade...whatever. The calf or foal learns very quickly how to release pressure..by going where the donkey wants to go. And you eliminate the danger of tying the young animal to a solid, unmoveable object. You can hook them up in the morning, and by the time it starts getting dark, the animal is pretty much broke to lead. If you have the time and patience, you can spend al day doing this yourself....teaching the animal to yield to pressure. Or, let the donkey do it for you, while you go do something else. You just need a gentle, well-broke donkey, preferably one that has done this before.
Click to expand...
 
Thank you very helpful advice. Will start this shortly. The heifer eats out of my hand in the beginning of each feeding. I take that time to touch her muzzle. She’s picky about that. The rest of her she doesn’t mind. I can brush her all over and gently pull on her tail and brush that too. I do have a small pen that will work great.
 
SimmeValley raises beef show cattle if I am not mistaken. With no donkey I agree this is the way to do it. You will first need to get a halter on the heifer. One way I have done this is get them used to eating out of a good size bucket. Get them used to and liking being scratched behind the ears while eating.Then start drapping the unbuckled halter with the noseband on the feed. Gets used to this, mess with the halter in the bucket and while scratching the ears. If she pulls away she will come back, its good to do this when they are hungry. Keep at it. You will be able to pull the noseband over her nose while eating and buckle behind the ears without a rodeo.
 
TexasJerseyMilker said:
SimmeValley raises beef show cattle if I am not mistaken. With no donkey I agree this is the way to do it. You will first need to get a halter on the heifer. One way I have done this is get them used to eating out of a good size bucket. Get them used to and liking being scratched behind the ears while eating.Then start drapping the unbuckled halter with the noseband on the feed. Gets used to this, mess with the halter in the bucket and while scratching the ears. If she pulls away she will come back, its good to do this when they are hungry. Keep at it. You will be able to pull the noseband over her nose while eating and buckle behind the ears without a rodeo.
Click to expand...
 
X2 on the donkey. Grew up breaking show calves. Good gentle donkey being key. Meaner jacks can kill a good calf. But good donkeys save you so much work. Especially on rank calves. Take alot of the fight out before you take hold.
 
She already sounds very gentle. Just take your time and be patient.
The info below sounds like good information. Hopefully GoWyo doesn't mind me sending it to you.


GoWyo
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Joined Feb 16, 2019
Messages1,555
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Location Southeast Wyoming

Donkeys are a brutal way to halter break a calf. Train them same way as horses. Calf is already gentle so half the battle is done. Standing at the side, ask the calf to turn her head toward you - as soon as she does, reward her by releasing the pressure. Giver her a little scratch and ask again then release when she does. Do it 100 times if you have to in order to get a light easy response from the calf. Then ask for just one step toward you and immediately release the pressure. Do that until she gets it. Then ask for two steps and release and so on. I can usually half a calf leading in 2-3 15-minute sessions of pressure and release without all the trauma of making their head sore, swelled up chin and pinching the nerves by their ears. Cattle are way more sensitive and trainable than a lot of people give them credit for being.
 
I was going to suggest using another tame bovine instead of a donkey. Tame cows are easier to find than. gentle donkeys. You tie the heifer (this is no calf but a big strong going on 10 month old) to the tame cow by a rope tied to the cows collar, then lead the cow while holding the heifer's leadrope. So there are two ropes to the calf halter the one tied to the cow and your leadrope. The the heifer if she tries to run off will not be able to because of the cow and she thinks it is you that is doing this. You never want them to find how much stronger they are. Also, the heifer is inclined go along to walk with the cow. From there you could work Jeanne Simme Valley leading her to feed method. You always want to lead them somewhere pleasant, like a place to go where they get groomed. Handling them all over will get them used to being a milk cow. Some are kickers so folks just use stiff brooms to rub and scratch their legs and belly at first.

I've always started halter breaking when they were bottle calves, not big yearlings. I have tried to raise two bottle raised half Jersey half beef (Angus) heifers to be family milk cows and it took all summer to break them to lead and tie. Because they learned that they could give me rope burns and get away, Then when I came back after a couple of months both of them were like no one had ever laid a hand on them. I guess they inherited the Scottish disposition.
 
Last edited:
puzzled in oregon said:
She already sounds very gentle. Just take your time and be patient.
The info below sounds like good information. Hopefully GoWyo doesn't mind me sending it to you.


GoWyo
Well-known member
Joined Feb 16, 2019
Messages1,555
Reaction score2,554
Location Southeast Wyoming

Donkeys are a brutal way to halter break a calf. Train them same way as horses. Calf is already gentle so half the battle is done. Standing at the side, ask the calf to turn her head toward you - as soon as she does, reward her by releasing the pressure. Giver her a little scratch and ask again then release when she does. Do it 100 times if you have to in order to get a light easy response from the calf. Then ask for just one step toward you and immediately release the pressure. Do that until she gets it. Then ask for two steps and release and so on. I can usually half a calf leading in 2-3 15-minute sessions of pressure and release without all the trauma of making their head sore, swelled up chin and pinching the nerves by their ears. Cattle are way more sensitive and trainable than a lot of people give them credit for being.
Click to expand...
 

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