How heavy can you tow????

Cowboy Curtis

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Jan 5, 2005
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Phoenix, AZ
I'm trying to figure out the heaviest load I can pull with a heavy duty truck. Haven't bought the truck yet so any suggestions and experiences would be really helpful.

I'm also wondering about truck idle creep. I have a few hills I'll have to park on and maybe back up. If a truck has enough idle creep (in Drive and Reverse), I think it would be easier to control instead of having to tap the gas to keep it steady or start rolling. Any experience?

Thanks
 
As far as buying the truck, I was listening to a dealership owner in Dallas (Jerry Reynolds) say that higher torque is much more important than higher horsepower.
 
It might help a little to know what you are mostly planning to tow (cattle trailers, hay, etc), and whether you will mostly be on the highway or running back and forth to the sale etc.

I am a Dodge fan, so I would probably recommend a Dodge Ram 3500, 4x2 flatbed dually if you really want to haul some weight. I would definately get a standard, 5 or 6 speed. I would also recommend at least a 3:73 rearend. With that set-up, you should be able to pull about anything you want, on the highway. Now if you will mostly be in the pasture and mud, I would probably recommend a 4x4 without the duals. I know people that are running 20,000 - 30,000 lbs gross vehicle weight on a regular basis with rigs similiar to the above mentioned. Over 26,000, and you will need a CDL.
 
Cowboy Curtis":1mqaepu1 said:
I'm trying to figure out the heaviest load I can pull with a heavy duty truck. Haven't bought the truck yet so any suggestions and experiences would be really helpful.

I'm also wondering about truck idle creep. I have a few hills I'll have to park on and maybe back up. If a truck has enough idle creep (in Drive and Reverse), I think it would be easier to control instead of having to tap the gas to keep it steady or start rolling. Any experience?

Thanks

Don't think I ever heard the "idle creep" question before. Don't know what you mean by "heavy duty" either. I have an F350 SRW; I consider that heavy duty but they make all sorts of heavier ones. I believe the manufacturers tow limit is 14,000 lbs? But one would need to check tongue weight as well to complete the equation. If you want a nice "idle creep" try a standard transmission in granny low. I can pretty much dump the clutch and move anything without ever touching the accelerator. Drop the transfer down to low range and I can take a nap while waiting on it to move 5 feet.
 
texasmortgageman":3dr5mubh said:
As far as buying the truck, I was listening to a dealership owner in Dallas (Jerry Reynolds) say that higher torque is much more important than higher horsepower.

I forgot to add, make it a DIESEL. That's the only way to go, and as mentioned above, torque makes all the difference.
 
I think I might be able to identify with the "idle creep." I would call that when you have it in granny low and the truck pulls itself without using the accelerator. It is a good gear to use when hauling hay in the field since there is no jerking from trying to start and stop. Just ease off of the clutch and it eases on. I would be looking for a "Ford" of course! :lol: Depending on what I wanted to do with the truck would determine my choice. If I were doing a lot of heavy loads, like pulling a 24' cattle trailer, or equipment, hay, etc.... I would be thinking about a Ford 350 flatbed so that I could totally have use of the bed and not worry about the fiberglass fenders that come on the dually. I would get a diesel, and would make sure it was geared to do the job.
 
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I went looking to buy a new 2004/2005 super duty F250 or F350 truck for the ranch and the shop. Man, was I ever overcome with sticker shock!! :o

I havent purchased a new truck since 2000, and dont really need one now but since I would be able to take the write off this yr and really could use the deduction, I figured what the heck. But, the best price I got on a F250 XLT with auto/diesel was just under $40k :o and the F350 was almost $45k!! These were both crew cabs with the XLT packages, but I just didnt realize they had gone up that much in the past 3-4 yrs. I even saw some of the King Ranch packages priced at over $60k!!!!
 
eric":32ilgu1t said:
I went looking to buy a new 2004/2005 super duty F250 or F350 truck for the ranch and the shop. Man, was I ever overcome with sticker shock!! :o

I havent purchased a new truck since 2000, and dont really need one now but since I would be able to take the write off this yr and really could use the deduction, I figured what the heck. But, the best price I got on a F250 XLT with auto/diesel was just under $40k :o and the F350 was almost $45k!! These were both crew cabs with the XLT packages, but I just didnt realize they had gone up that much in the past 3-4 yrs. I even saw some of the King Ranch packages priced at over $60k!!!!
I think you can get an H2 for less than that if you leave out all the bells and whistles! Eat you up on fuel and tear up your driveway, but it would be a little easier to find in the Wal Mart parking lot!
 
Eric,

I know what you mean we've been getting approx. the same figures, however we're looking at the F250 or F350 (auto/diesel) Lariat. We still havn't ruled out the Dodge 3500 Crew Cab (diesel/auto) dually. I have to admit I've been seeing alot more of them on the road lately. Wonder if that has anything to do with the problems the new 2004 Ford diesel had. Found the above Dodge (with deluxe Laramie packages) for about $40k plus TTL.
 
I just bought (right before christmas) a 2005 Chevy 2500HD 4X4 with the 6.0 gas/5 speed manual and LS trim for $26,500. I'll be pulling a 24 x 6 gooseneck stock trailer with it. If I was pulling daily, I'd want the diesel but for occasional loads of my own or friends/family, the gas will do fine. It's replacing a 98 2500 with a 350 engine.

As far as idle creep for backing, if you get 4 wheel drive you can put it in four low and really creep. Mine has a 4.10 rear so in low you can ease a trailer backwards slower than you walk.

Also, the gas engines are much better in mud. If you'll pulling daily or weekly, get a diesel.

But if you're not and only pulling a 14-20 foot trailer, the gas rigs will do fine and the 3/4 ton trucks will let you haul a ton or ton and a half of feed with no problems and minimal squat compared to the half tons.
 
another thing to consider is if your goin to be hauling big snorty loads i would not even think of touching a automatic unless there were some modifactions done. I own a 96 2500 4x4 dodge with the 360 and i have a beefed up auto and i have hauld some stuff i should not have and no real problems but who wants to be first to the hill @ 70 with a loaded trailer only to remember what goes up must come down :shock: i have a 76 logan steel 24' stock trailer that is a heavy mother but narrow so it tracks well and my truck pulls it just fine and i own a 79 circle j 2 horse bumper pull and compaird to my goose neck stock trailer i like towing the horse trailer better goin to rodeos one summer i had to use the big girl and she put me out on the side of the road for fuel. plus the little hoss trailer works great to haul one or two calfs or a steer to the docs better than 1 calf in a big trailer no sir i dont have a ego problem 8)
 

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