Haulter breaking Yearling Steer

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wendyj

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Does any one have any ideas on how we can haulter break and gentle down a fairly wild yearling steer so my son can lead him to get him weighed Feb 26. Son is 11 and we are new to the Angus thing. We have 3 heifers (2 are due int spring), 1 steer and one cow with newborn calf.
We have our steer tied to a tree. Finally got hold of him today after trying 2 days. Need advice. This is for 4H.
 
Its been awhile but I used to set up a reward system. After you have him tied up, always make sure that you try to lead him before you feed him. Pretty soon he'll get the idea that the longer he plays around, the longer it is until dinner. We used to halter break ours by tying him to the tractor and letting the person who will usually lead them walk where they would usually walk and hold the rope when leading him. Hopefully the animal will get the idea that resistance is futile. One other thing. If you try this method, make sure the person leading him watches his feet. We had one calf step on my brothers' foot while he was fighting being dragged. It wasn't pretty.
 
It really helps if you have a small pen to keep him in while you're training him...I get the weanling in our pen (about 20x30) and put a halter on it (I usually have to use the headgate so I can put the halter on, unless the calf is friendly enough that I can get it on while his head's in the grain bucket). Be careful that the halter isn't too loose or too tight. I snap a cotton lead rope on the halter and let the calf boink around on its own with the halter and lead rope...when it calms down, I give the calf its grain and slowly get hold of the lead rope...then I'll pick up the bucket and move it and "lead" the calf to it...do this a few times. They're usually so focused on the grain that they follow the bucket to get another bite. We leave the rope on for a few days so there's something to get hold of, even if it gets muddy and nasty.

After you do this (a few consecutive days maybe?), and the animal's actually leading a bit, go a little farther each time between bites. When he's no used to this, you can try tying the calf to a stout fence post in the pen for a few minutes...(use a quick release knot and don't leave the calf on its own!) Yes, they'll pull and tug but soon figure out that it's useless. When he calms down, give a little grain or a treat. Gradually increase the length of time the animal's tied to the post. You can start to run your hands over the animal, cbe careful around the legs (hind legs have a long reach/kick), talk calmly to it. Give another treat after they let you do this. Next step, maybe try brushing the calf too (remember, all this feels very strange to them when they're not used to being handled and they are afraid of it). Important to stay calm and slow, no sudden moves, no shouting (if you have to swear, do it in a normal tone).

It all takes time and repetition. What I do may be too slow for some people, but it works for us. When ours catch onto "treats," they come right over for them; when I train them, though, I make sure they earn that treat, even if it's standing tied for five minutes. And once they learn to lead, stand tied, be brushed and handled, they don't forget it! And it's really nice to be able to lead an animal out of the pen, to a different pasture, into the trailer, or even down the road.

Your son is young, so probably needs adult supervision and help to do this initially. Oh, and never wrap the end of the rope around your hand! Better to let the animal get away than to get dragged. You have a couple of weeks to do this and you'd be surprised how fast they learn!

Hope this helps get you started.
 
Great advice from Gale! I use a sorting stick to "pet" the animal the first few times as an extension of my hand. Then you can slowly start to shorten the distance between your stick and the calf, and in a day or two you will be standing there petting it with no stick. This is great for touching around the udder, where kicks are inevitable! Godd luck, and be patient. Just when you think there is no hope, they'll suprise ya!
 
When we have ones that are kinda unruly, we have pens that open into an alley. We pen them up and lead them to water down the alley moving the water further away every few days until we are leading them out of the alley to the water. We also lead them out of the pen and tie them while cleaning the pen, then put their grain in their feeder then lead them back into the pen for their grain. Soon they are waiting at their gate for you to come get them. That way they get walked two times twice a day.
 
Lots of great advice thus far.
I tie mine up and leave them there 24 hours per day. I tie them up on the opposite side of the pen where the water and feed are. I lead them to the water. Use a halter with a long enough lead, that you have plenty or room to be able to brace yourself. You do not want the calf to get loose. They need to learn the feel of the rope. Lead them to the feed and water. When they are tied up, talk to them, and start brushing them. Most steers will gentle down within a few days when doing this.
I wouldn't use a tractor, pickup or any other device to lead them. This may spook them more and make the gentling process tougher.
Good luck
 
You're not giving yourself very much time to get him halter broke, and especially if he's as big as a yearling.

Tying him to a tree isn't what I would suggest. He's probably scared and by tying him to the tree you're punishing him, and he probably doesn't understand what for.

If you have a small pen, you need to spends hours with him.. brushing him and getting him used to you being around him and handling him. Good luck... it sounds like a lot of work to do in a short period of time.
 
TheBullLady":38q16n1m said:
You're not giving yourself very much time to get him halter broke, and especially if he's as big as a yearling.

Tying him to a tree isn't what I would suggest. He's probably scared and by tying him to the tree you're punishing him, and he probably doesn't understand what for.

If you have a small pen, you need to spends hours with him.. brushing him and getting him used to you being around him and handling him. Good luck... it sounds like a lot of work to do in a short period of time.
I'm goin' with TheBullLady on this one.You should have started him on halter months ago. There was one guy on here that halter broke hundreds a day ,you might look back on the posts and find him,he may be able to help. ;-)
 
catl":azbyv1ql said:
There was one guy on here that halter broke hundreds a day ,you might look back on the posts and find him,he may be able to help. ;-)

:lol: :lol: :lol: HEHE, Bolson's hot air won't help break this calf!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:
If ya'll notice, txag asked to many questions that he couldn't lie his way out of so he dissappeared!!!
 
Muratic":33xiym7n said:
catl":33xiym7n said:
There was one guy on here that halter broke hundreds a day ,you might look back on the posts and find him,he may be able to help. ;-)

:lol: :lol: :lol: HEHE, Bolson's hot air won't help break this calf!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:
If ya'll notice, txag asked to many questions that he couldn't lie his way out of so he dissappeared!!!


Yeah I forgot about him ran 5000 head broke hundreds of them his parking lot was bigger than some spreads. You name he had dunnit all.
It was entertaining you have to admit.
 
Here's how we do it:

When first tying the calf or when first walking the calf, we always put two halters on the animal. We don't ever want it to get away and think that if it fights enough it can get away again. Two people handle the calf at first, one on each halter rope. We have a couple of homemade manila rope halters that are adjustable to fit any animal, from a small calf to a grown cow. The rope halters have about 10 to 12 feet of lead rope that can be wrapped behind the handler if the calf tries to get away. We run the rope behind us across our butts so we can essentially lean back and almost sit on the rope if the calf should put up much of a fight. By doing this, the calf can't really do anything but circle around, and she can't do much of that if there is a second halter and a second handler working with her.

We usually leave a calf tied for about a half hour the first day, then, while it is still tied, start brushing it. I like to use what some call a dairy brush. It has a handle and a square head, with long bristles. The handle gives us a few more inches of reach, and the bristles are soft and feel good to the calf. Some people use a curry comb from the start, but we've found a dairy brush or similar brush gets a much better reaction from the calf for the first few brushings. Be sure not to jump back if the calf moves away from you. She needs to learn she can't move away from you. Talk to her soothingly and be calmly persistent.

Offer some grain when you are through brushing. The first time or two the calf is tied, she probably will refuse the grain and, if she is tied too tightly, she can't get her nose down into a bucket to eat. A shallow feed pan is best.

When you are ready to start teaching your calf to lead, set several shallow grain pans around the corral, maybe 20 to 30 feet apart. Put a very small handful of grain in each pan, then start leading your calf toward one of the pans. Give a tug on the lead rope and encourage her to take a step forward. Talk to her. The instant she takes even a half step forward, release the pressure on the lead rope and quietly praise her. Give her a few seconds, then pull on the lead rope again. When she gives to the pressure of the rope or chain under her chin, again let up the pressure and let her stand there while you quietly praise her. The pressure under her chin is uncomfortable; releasing the pressure is her reward for taking a step forward (giving to the pressure).

When you get the cow to the first feed pan, give her time to stand there and relax enough to find the feed. Then, start working your way toward the second feed pan. She will catch on quickly. By the time you are heading for the third or fourth feed pan, she will probably be leading you.

It's worked well for us – I hope it works for you.

Also:

We have built what we refer to as "the wall." Two sturdy posts are set in cement about four feet apart and about six feet high. Cross pieces made of 2 x 12's are screwed into the posts horizontally, with about 2 inches of space between each 2 x 12. The space between the 2 x 12's allows the animal to be tied at nearly any height, but is too small to get a hoof caught. The horizontal 2 x 12's form a semi-solid wall in front of the calf. The animal can be cross-tied to the two posts, or tied to one post only. She cannot circle around as she could with a single post. There is an extra margin of safety because the handler can, at any time, step to the other side of the wall, out of reach of the calf. If the calf is cross-tied, two animals can be tied to opposite sides of the wall at the same time.
 

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