Grass question Alabama

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I will reach out to him and get back to you.
I asked him and he said that by early winter seeding he was able to graze his Rye into about the middle of the summer. He said that blending the rye with annual legumes extends the grazing period. He does this with the advice of the University of GA Extension. Please note that he is in North Georgia and not South or Coastal Georgia (very moderate climate). I do know that he also has very fertile soil on his place.

My advice would be to reach out to your local extension office and see what they recommend based on the condition of your soil and climate.
 
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If you could find some Johnson grass seed you will have some fall grass year after year, even this year. Cattle love it and it makes good hay if harvested in time. It does have a stalk if left unattended.
 
If you could find some Johnson grass seed you will have some fall grass year after year, even this year. Cattle love it and it makes good hay if harvested in time. It does have a stalk if left unattended.
Seed prices for sudan have me looking more and more at going Johnson grass. This field is ryegrass planted in November. It'll come off in about a month and instead of the usual hybrid sudan I'm going to try to get Johnson grass established. Should be able to have johnson grass in the summer and ryegrass in the winter without having to do anything except some management.KIMG0656.JPGKIMG0656.JPG
 
Patchy fescue: fescue responds well to good pH and it responds negatively to soil compaction. That is my experience. If you want fescue, use a summer legume like lespedeza, sunn hemp, cowpeas, or forage soybeans, add a little sunflower and bt millet or the crabgrass. Then plant the fescue in the fall. Somewhere in all of that - break the ground up in some fashion.
Some sorghum/sudan grass added to that mixture will help break up the soil.
 
I would just go in this week, and spray it all with 24D, and pull soil samples to send off. When the samples get back, fertilize according to the specs for the type grasses you have. Then you can determine this fall, if you want to try something else.
 
Lord, these posts about crabgrass and Johnson grass cause me to cringe. I have spent half of my life.. well , since about 1973, battling these 2 weeds in my Bermuda hay fields! Since they developed the wick bar, I have kept the Johnson grass under control, but it is hard to kill crabgrass without hurting the Bermuda. I dang sure wouldn't spend money to PLANT those 2 weeds! LOL
 
Some sorghum/sudan grass added to that mixture will help break up the soil.
Right. The most soil conditioning requires the s/sg to get up to size to cut or harvest and then take it back down to 18" or less for regrowth. That action will stimulate root activity. It is said to create the most biomass of roots in the soil of any annual when that action is taken.
 
Warren, you provide lots of useful information, but you're bad wrong on Johnsongrass and crabgrass. They are by far the best quality warm season forages we can grow in the South. They thrive, where adapted, on virtually no maintenance. You should be trying to get more of them in your hayfields, not less!
 
Seed prices for sudan have me looking more and more at going Johnson grass. This field is ryegrass planted in November. It'll come off in about a month and instead of the usual hybrid sudan I'm going to try to get Johnson grass established. Should be able to have johnson grass in the summer and ryegrass in the winter without having to do anything except some management.View attachment 3251View attachment 3251
 
Fence, if you're on heavy land, Johnsongrass will do well. Lighter soil I would go with crabgrass. Both would prefer a good discoing in the establishment year. Some soil prep annually is good, but you probably get that with your ryegrass. If you go crabgrass, don't make a move until you talk to R.L. Dalrymple. He invented crabgrass!
 
Warren, you provide lots of useful information, but you're bad wrong on Johnsongrass and crabgrass. They are by far the best quality warm season forages we can grow in the South. They thrive, where adapted, on virtually no maintenance. You should be trying to get more of them in your hayfields, not less!
I am not Warren, but in my area johnson grass will overtake a bermuda hayfield and the bermuda grass will cease to thrive. Soon, you will have only johnson grass. Bermuda grass (especially hybrids) will yield much more than the johnson grass. A good bermuda hayfield will produce a lot of hay. Johnson grass - not so much. Very hard to get the johnson grass out of the bermuda hayfield. Johnson grass in pasture - cows love it, but will eat it to the ground and it will disappear with heavy grazing. It may be the solution for low maintenance, but not for managed hay fields. At least in my area.
 
Fence, if you're on heavy land, Johnsongrass will do well. Lighter soil I would go with crabgrass. Both would prefer a good discoing in the establishment year. Some soil prep annually is good, but you probably get that with your ryegrass. If you go crabgrass, don't make a move until you talk to R.L. Dalrymple. He invented crabgrass!
Bought seed from dalrymple a decade ago. The crabgrass failed miserabley.
 
Warren, you provide lots of useful information, but you're bad wrong on Johnsongrass and crabgrass. They are by far the best quality warm season forages we can grow in the South. They thrive, where adapted, on virtually no maintenance. You should be trying to get more of them in your hayfields, not less!
I am not bad wrong about a damned thing. I produce top-quality horse hay, and I don't want that sh*t in my bermuda field. This part of Georgia I can get 4 cuttings easily, most years 5, of bermuda. I see no reason to introduce two invasive species that will cut down yield, and destroy quality ,thus lowering the price per bale.
 
I am not bad wrong about a damned thing. I produce top-quality horse hay, and I don't want that sh*t in my bermuda field. This part of Georgia I can get 4 cuttings easily, most years 5, of bermuda. I see no reason to introduce two invasive species that will cut down yield, and destroy quality ,thus lowering the price per bale.
Isn't Bermuda grass an introduced invasive species?
 
I have a bermuda grass hayfield. Worked very hard to get it established. It's only 17 acres but I understand not wanting other grass in it as it devalues the hay to people who don't realize johnson grass makes better hay. The advantage to bermuda is simply what people will pay for it.
 
Johnson grass or Sorghum Almum has its place though its not for everyone. It works wonderful in my heavy black soil bottom land in a pasture that is rotational grazed about every 30 to 45 days. If your hay is for horses, then you hate it. If its for cows it works well. It establishes easily, it reseeds its self all summer long, its does well in marginal soils. It doesn't take a lot of rain, its great to plant where erosion is a problem.

The field noted above had a horrible witch grass problem when I bought the place. I had trouble getting any short grass to establish as the witch grass would out grow everything and shade it out. There is not a herbicide to kill witch grass by itself that I know of and there is a ton of seed in the soil so glyfo only works for a short period before the other seed comes up. Anyway since I have been planting Sorghum Almum down there, things have changed significantly. The witch grass is still there but does poorly as the sorghum out grows it and shades it out. Every year the pasture gets a little better and I have noticed now that some of the plants I tried to introduce like Klein grass are suddenly coming up. I am picking up some SA seed tomorrow to no till drill into my oats as soon as I get it baled. This is late to be planting but the grass will grow until November here so not a big deal. My goal is the same as Fences. I want to graze the SA down hard in September, then plant oats into the lightly disced stubble. This gets me my hay started and gets the seed from the plants knocked down and incorporated into the soil. Hopefully after a few years of this I will not have to replant the Sorghum.

Here is some info on Sorghum Almum if any are interested. Sometimes the seed is easier to find than the Johnson grass. My cost is $69.25 per 50 lb bag. My small seed drill open all the way only puts down 10-12 lbs per acre which is the minimum for new established grass but okay for adding to the existing.

 

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