Fencing with Feedlot Panels

[MudHog]

Anybody built a fence using feedlot panels before?

I got about 600ft of fence I need to replace and thinking of using feedlot panels and making 16ft sections. Quite possible would end up re-fencing all the property with this too.

 

[Stickney94]

I'm making an assumption that "feedlot panel" is the same as a cattle panel/livestock panel -- galvanized wire 16' by 50" or so in a welded in grid like this: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/feedlot-panel-cattle-16-ft-l-x-50-in-h

Advantages: goes up reasonably quick. Generally holds cattle.

Disadvantages: depending on brand/and your weight, will deform when climbing over, haha. Need to set your posts accurately to have adequate overlap/nailing options. Is both very resilient and fragile at the same time. Works great on level fence runs. If you have undulating terrain can be a bit tricky to install.

What kind of "pen" are you aiming to make? We use these panels for dry lots. We use heavier pipe panels for working pens. I use it generally where I need something more secure than a 4 or 5 strand wire fence.

If you can find a heavier made brand that would be better (redbrand used to make some 1/4" wire that was sturdy, but I can't source that anymore)

If you go with 16" sections, you probably will want to have a middle post of some sort at 8". But your mileage may vary depending on what your pen design is.

 

[JW IN VA]

I Have used them to build a couple alleys with mixed results.
They are,of course,a much heavier wire than standard woven wire and will stand pressure much better.The heavy galvanization stands up well.
They will,however, have spot welds at each joint which can break loose.There is no flex for changes in ground level.You will also need to have a larger diameter post at the 16' mark because you are joining two ends.Staples will need to be longer for both the larger diameter and deeper post contact to hold.The sway of the panel will transfer to the end and work the shorter staples out of the post.You will also need to have another post around the 8' mark to prevent excessive sway.On mine,I usually add at least one board joined on the center post to add stability.
It will depend at lot on what you are trying to accomplish but,for a ordinary fence, you should be able to build a cheaper and easier fence with woven wire.
I'm not saying it can't be done or shouldn't but you need to know what they will and won't do.
If I had more info on what you are trying to do,I could give a better opinion.

 

[MudHog]

Thanks guys. The link is the panel that I was looking at. Not looking to build a pen, this is a perimeter fence on one side of the property for now. With potential to become perimeter around the whole property.

I would build using 2-3/8" STD pipe. This would be just a perimeter fence with little to no pressure. Fence now is an old fence with woven wire and 2 strands barbed wire on top. Its in bad shape cows can reach over and push down on it. Ground is level too in the 600ft run.

My thought would be to set the panel 60" off the ground and then have a 10" gap at the ground.

 

[JW IN VA]

With that much gap you may find they will now try pushing under.Especially where panels are in the longest span.
It will depend on how much your soil "grows" under a fence.Where I live,frost action will heave the soil somewhat and, with nothing to tramp it down under the wire,"grow" so we leave some space to keep the bottom wire from getting buried.
In my opinion,you may be better of going with a 49" net wire stretched correctly.Use Type III galvanized wire and,I would suggest,a locked joint like Sta Tuff sells.Other brands make similar joints.For perimeter fence,a 12" stay would be okay.I personally have used 6" stay most of the time because of the deer punching holes through 12" sooner but that was before the newer lock joints were available.
In reality,I have in recent years begun to use more smooth hi tensile at eight wires six inches apart with an 8" spacing at the bottom because of cost.

 

[shaz]

I have used them in my working pen for years. They're ok until a cow decides to jump over it and panels are pretty useless once they're bent down. I've had to put a 2x8 along the top for this reason. Usually, a cow won't try to jump anything it can't see over but I had a steer who figured out the wire would buckle under his weight.

 

[bird dog]

I put one up like what you are thinking to divide a pasture about 20 years ago. I just used T posts every 8'. Over lapped the ends a few inches. Used fence clips and wire. It was suppose to be a temporary fence but after 20 years is still doing its job.

I would hold off the ground about 6" to allow for ground unevenness and run a strand of barb across the top a couple inches above the wire.

 

[Lucky]

High tensile fixed knot would be much cheaper, lots better, and way easier to put up. Cattle panels work fairly well and I have some up as temporarily permanent fence but, have you ever seen what a cow can do to a cattle panel? They can turn it into a pretzel if they get the notion to.

 

[Bigfoot]

It's an expensive option, but my area I settle calves I've bought in is made out of it. I put pressure treated post slightly less than 16' apart, and drove 2 seven foot T post between each. Ran three strands of barbed wire over the top of it. I can turn calves in it, and sleep at night.

 

[MudHog]

I looked at the continuous fencing, holy moly that stuff is high.

 

[hillbilly beef man]

I built a couple acre weaning pen a couple years ago out of the 16ft panels. I put them just a couple of inches above the ground so nothing could their head under it. I put 6 inch wood round posts 16 ft apart with a 7 ft T post between them. Then I put a strand of barbed wire 6 inches above that. I stretched the panels with the flat end of a digging bar by sticking the end through the panel and then pulling against the wood post. It has held up good so far, but if I had it to do over I would have put up a fixed knot woven wire fence. It would have did the same job and would have been cheaper to put up.

 

[DLD]

They're commonly used here with 2 3/8" pipe posts (8' spacing) and top rail. If that's what you're thinking, it will strengthen it considerably, and should be plenty solid for perimeter fence. I wouldn't go more than 8" off the ground, though. We have some pens built this way, most with another 2 3/8" rail about halfway up. They work well for us, but then again most of our cattle are gentle, and we work them slow and easy as we can, so we probably don't put as much pressure on them as some do.

 

[Dave]

Here they cost about $20 apiece. To fence 600 feet using them it would take 37.5 panels. That is $750. Plus the cost of the posts. That is some terrible expensive fence. A couple rolls of woven wire and a roll of barb wire wouldn't cost half that.

In the past I have built a catch pen using them. Posts at 8 feet with a 2x10 in the middle and another one above the wire. I have a stack of them here. The people I bought this place from never fixed anything. They just hung one of those panels over the places that needed repairing. I have been taking them down and repairing. I also have a pretty good stack of torn up ones that I inherited when I bought this place.

 

[MudHog]

Prices wise, it is expensive up front. However, life expectancy is much much longer than woven wire. I would figure at minimum twice as long, if not pushing 3 times. Over that many years, price drops drastically.

Cheaper than continuous fence though.


I ultimately would like a all pipe fence

 

[Dave]

Judging by the stack of torn up panels that I have I would question that longevity prediction. But if you are happy, I am happy.

 

[bigbluegrass]

I haven't been on in awhile, but this discussion perked my interest. I have a fence that runs along a backroad highway. The road curves, so my fence curves. I have had a heck of a time keeping the fence tight, since it pulls the posts over. Right now it is wood posts about every 24' with two T posts between wood posts. It is barbed wire, 5 strand. It holds cows ok, but a car went through it last year and tore it up. I am trying to find a good way to keep the fence tight. I could put an H brace corner post every 50 feet of so and run shorter straight sections. It wouldn't follow the road exactly like it does now, but would stay tighter. I was also thinking I could use the cattle panels, which don't need to be pulled tight. Also, if a car runs through it maybe I will just need to replace a cattle panel or two and a few posts rather than try to repair a larger section of wire. I think it might be safer for cars that run off the road also. Thoughts?

 

[greggy]

I would not worry about whats best for the cars.....

if it is not straight, prob need stays everywhere, or, make straight sections, if it is not a long section, maybe timber posts and rails and can put netting inside if you have small stock as well.

If using the portable style panels, what would concern me is people deciding to take them....

 

[MudHog]

Along the road, the feedlot panels will be more work. There is a fence down from me exactly as you describe, but it is also across from a T intersection. There are 3 patch jobs now. I wouldn't use the feedlot panels next to a road because of the work it would require to repair.

 

[M.Magis]

I think bigbluegrass's thought regarding using them along the road is that patching holes from cars would be easier. And I think he's probably right, though I have no experience myself. But wouldn't replacing damaged posts and panels be faster than replacing posts, splicing wire, and restretching everything?

 

[bigbluegrass]

I think bigbluegrass's thought regarding using them along the road is that patching holes from cars would be easier. And I think he's probably right, though I have no experience myself. But wouldn't replacing damaged posts and panels be faster than replacing posts, splicing wire, and restretching everything?

Thanks M.Magis, that is pretty much one of the points I was trying to make. I have only had one car go through the fence, but it stretched out the barbed wire a long way on both sides of where it went through the fence. Most of the wire 50 foot on either side was trashed. I was thinking a cattle panel would only require replacing a panel or two and some posts. Either way, I will need to replace posts.

There is a place I drive past frequently that has a nice board fence. He is fixing it all of the time from cars going through it.

I don't necessarily want to fence the cars out. I am just hoping to make it safer - for cars and cows.

The other benefit I see is that the cattle panels won't pull the posts over time like wire will. I do realize I can put a bunch of stays or braces. Things to consider.