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fence testers

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c farmer

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I just installed two miles of high tensile fence and am in need of a good tester. I was wondering what kind of testers you all use and why. I am looking at one from Ken Cove that has a digital read out of voltage and will tell you what way the short is in your fence, the cost is about 125.00. Thanks for any info.
 

dun

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The directional digital types are the only way to go. I use a stafix and it sure beats putting our hand on the wire to check it.
 
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c farmer

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The one I am looking at is a stafix. The fencer I have is a 15 joule, what kind of voltage should have for a good fence.
 

dun

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c farmer":78hbhu4u said:
The one I am looking at is a stafix. The fencer I have is a 15 joule, what kind of voltage should have for a good fence.

It's claimed that 4500 volts is all that is required for cattle. Ours typically runs in the 6500-7100 range depnding mostly on the grass/vine buildup and how wet the grass/vines are.
 

tytower

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I have one that lights up at whatever the voltage is . Cost $20 at a garage sale with a heap of other stuff some horse woman had spent a fortune on and then couldnt ride the horse.
 

plumber_greg

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The digital readouts are the only way to go. Most of my fences run different voltages, you just have to know what is goin' to be normal for your fence. Remember though, voltage makes the pop, but it's the amps that make the hurt. 15 joules cause a lot of hurt, even down to a couple of thousand volts, the more miles of wire and weeds on the fence will affect that. gs
 

grannysoo

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tytower":32y8jax0 said:
I have one that lights up at whatever the voltage is . Cost $20 at a garage sale with a heap of other stuff some horse woman had spent a fortune on and then couldnt ride the horse.

I had one like that too, but the ones that read the voltage are still the way to go.
 

jkwilson

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Get the Stafix one that tells you where the short is and reads out the voltage.

Biggest time saver I own. I had a dead short in the fence last week. Nothing snapping or popping. I have a wire running around my hay barn to keep the cows from rubbing the paint off. An insulator had worn through and the wire was touching the nail which goes through the siding. I tested within 6 inches of the short and didn't notice it. Walked about 50ft and tested again. The arrow was pointing back. Kept chasing it until the arrow was pointing toward the insulator on both sides, and I still couldn't see it. It might have taken me hours to find it without the tester, but I had it fixed in 5 minutes. No ground probe required either, so you can just walk along and test.
 
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c farmer

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Sounds like I will be getting the stafix one. Thanks for the replys
 

hayray

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I have a Speedrite tester, probably the same thing as the Stafix. On a 40 acre farm where I have multi-wire high tensile and polywire in a lot of spots where I have a 15 joule Gallagher charger and in the early spring before I get a heavy vegetation load I am often over 9 KV or 10 Kv. Right now I seem to be in the mid 7kv. When I get below 6Kv then I know something is wrong.
 

Stocker Steve

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dun":1i9d0pji said:
It's claimed that 4500 volts is all that is required for cattle. Ours typically runs in the 6500-7100 range depending mostly on the grass/vine buildup and how wet the grass/vines are.

Zero will hold my cows (almost all of the time). :shock: I run a lot of ploy twine which really drops your voltage quickly. I like to see 6000+ volts, but it can range from 3500 to 9999 depending on the length of the runs and how wet the soil is.

How many wires do you energize to keep calves and breeding stock in???

I used to just energize just the third wire up to hold stockers. Now I am energizing the second and the third wire, but a neighbors yearling heifer still went through or over several 4 strand barbed wire fences, across the road, and around 7000 volts to join my happy herd bull... A real athlete with a goal in mind!
 
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c farmer

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I run a 5 wire high tensile with 4 hot wires. I want to make sure they dont get out.
 
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c farmer

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The bottom wire isnt grounded it is just there. When I was running the fence I put extra crimps on the wires where I connected the power and where I put in gates so all of the wire is crimped together.
 

dun

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We use a single strand of either high tensile (permanent) or poly (temporary). A good ground at the charger eliminates a ton of fencing problems out on the fence line.
 

mnmtranching

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Is 1/2 inch re bar driven in 6 feet a good enough ground?

Why is my plug in fencer so much better then the 12 volt one.

I just bought a $25 dollar tester that has lights. I think shows seven voltages. Piece of crap, like all Chinese made junk. You have to use it in the dark to see the lights. I know the fence is hot, I did the touch method. :shock: :shock: :shock:
 
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c farmer

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I have 2 8foot copper ground rods for ground. The charger manual said to use 3 but I only used 2.
 
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