Fence Rows

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showstick09

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This may be dumb, but what do you spray on fence rows to kill plain ole grass dead. Not round-up, but something strong so I wouldn't have to weedeat for awhile. This is in my yard. Thanks.
 
Roundup is actually safer than many other herbicides on the market and should kill grass "dead". If you have some broadleaf in there in addition to the grass, mix some 2,4-D in with the Roundup. It comes as a premix I believe for yard use. 2,4-D is also a relatively safe herbicide which gets broadleaf weeds that roundup does not kill as completely. You still need to be careful with both of these products and follow label directions. If you want to get a complete kill of everything a mix in the correct proportions should about do it. There is no residual action meaning they will only kill what is growing there now, as I recall.

Jim
 
Hyvar or Spike are pretty good soil sterilants. Can't remember how long it will keep stuff from growing but its a while. Maybe a year or two depending on the rate. Both are soil sterilants and both are soil active so spraying under the drip line of a tree is a no no cause it doesn't discrimate on size or species. If that sounds too strong try Velpar but still use caution around trees. Safer bet would be to use roundup then follow this up with a mix of treflan and atrazine as needed to keep it bare. Oh, if you mix up any of the first mentioned chemicals in the back of your truck and the get a slight spill it might pay you to park your truck at the neighbor's house until you get a good rain to wash out the back of your truck. That is of course if you wife is partial to green grass in her yard like mine is. :oops:
 
Roundup 2 or 3 times a year at most. I do miles of fence with it every year. Stuff costs next to nothing. You can do a mile of fence in 10 minutes on a 4 wheeler. Unless you have roundup resistant pigweed, you don't need any of that stinking, headache causing 24d. Use that stuff Jo's talking about and you'll be needing a chainsaw to get the dead trees off your fence when they fall on it.
 
Roundup or the generic equivalent is a chemical salt and will rust your galvanized fence badly. It will rust guardrail with its heavy galvanized coating specified and verified by the state. 2 4 D will get rid of broad leaf plants and will not erode your fencing. If you want to kill difficult plants under the fence use Spike but it is expensive.
 
This is just plain grass that grows in the yard. I will stick with round up then. I guess the person that told me it would grow back within a month was wrong. Thanks for the advice.
 
Geez. 24d is not for grass killing, agman. How many fences have been rusted in two from having roundup sprayed under them? Zero.This thread is a disaster.
 
showstick09":35d0lxq2 said:
This is just plain grass that grows in the yard. I will stick with round up then. I guess the person that told me it would grow back within a month was wrong. Thanks for the advice.
You choose right!
 
ga.prime":2ir5oj7a said:
Use that stuff Jo's talking about and you'll be needing a chainsaw to get the dead trees off your fence when they fall on it.

Yep, it don't discriminate. GP, its kinda hard to answer some of these questions when someone specifically asks for something other than what is most practical. Who knows, he might be of the same belief as the person a while back that thought roundup was extremely poisonous since his wife was allergic to it. In defense of spike, when used properly and with an understanding of what it does it will do a very good job. Just can't be stupid with it but we both know how that goes.
 
The person who told you the grass would grow back in a month was probably a New Zealander...

because it certainly does in this country. If I haven't sprayed around the milking shed within three weeks of a dairy inspection, I get told to do it by the inspector.

For long term kill I'd add something like atrazine to the mix (but note that it's on the 'about to be banned' list in this country). My preferred option is an initial round-up spray, grass seed, 2-4 D for any broad-leaved stuff that pops up and make the cows graze under the fencelines.
But most people use round-up. I just see a massive weed problem that I can't control everywhere I spray it regularly, so I hate doing it.
 
regolith":noobdcik said:
The person who told you the grass would grow back in a month was probably a New Zealander...

because it certainly does in this country. If I haven't sprayed around the milking shed within three weeks of a dairy inspection, I get told to do it by the inspector.

For long term kill I'd add something like atrazine to the mix (but note that it's on the 'about to be banned' list in this country). My preferred option is an initial round-up spray, grass seed, 2-4 D for any broad-leaved stuff that pops up and make the cows graze under the fencelines.
But most people use round-up. I just see a massive weed problem that I can't control everywhere I spray it regularly, so I hate doing it.
New Zealand is the Garden of Eden. The arid subtropics of Georgia and Texas are not the Garden of Eden.
 
That's why you don't have a cow or two on every acre...

I tell you, my Dad's a gardener in the UK and he couldn't believe this place. He kept saying "we have this plant at home - but half the size." Not that I have fond memories of twice yearly weed control or anything...
 
ga.prime":1id4pptf said:
Roundup 2 or 3 times a year at most. I do miles of fence with it every year. Stuff costs next to nothing. You can do a mile of fence in 10 minutes on a 4 wheeler. Unless you have roundup resistant pigweed, you don't need any of that stinking, headache causing 24d. Use that stuff Jo's talking about and you'll be needing a chainsaw to get the dead trees off your fence when they fall on it.

:lol:
 
For those that have a metal fence that they want to last, possibly you may want to read this. Otherwise proceed as advised above.

This is a copy and paste from the *MSDS for glyphosate/Roundup

Glyphosate may react with galvanized steel or unlined steel (except stainless steel) containers to produce hydrogen gas which may form a highly combustible or explosive gas mixture. Glyphosate can react with caustic (basic) materials to liberate heat. Glyphosate is corrosive to iron.

* Material Safety Data Sheet
 
You might mix roundup (glyphosate) with Grazon. The roundup will kill everything and the Grazon will keep anything from germinating
 
agmantoo":1e9fghyo said:
For those that have a metal fence that they want to last, possibly you may want to read this. Otherwise proceed as advised above.

This is a copy and paste from the *MSDS for glyphosate/Roundup

Glyphosate may react with galvanized steel or unlined steel (except stainless steel) containers to produce hydrogen gas which may form a highly combustible or explosive gas mixture. Glyphosate can react with caustic (basic) materials to liberate heat. Glyphosate is corrosive to iron.

* Material Safety Data Sheet
:lol2: You been reading a lot of Mother Earth News, agman? Everything's corrosive to iron. Sweet Gum trees are corrosive to iron. If you spray a glyphosate solution on a wire 2 or 3 times a year for years on end it won't even tarnish. That's my experience. :D

By the way, I like Mother Earth News. I just sent in a card last week for a two year subscription. :D
 
ga.prime

I am a little more technical than your preferred reading. I also do not read comic books. Just admit you made a mistake and were not aware that the glyphosate is corrosive and you do not want to acknowledge your error.
 
agmantoo":phhpz9yp said:
ga.prime

I am a little more technical than your preferred reading. I also do not read comic books. Just admit you made a mistake and were not aware that the glyphosate is corrosive and you do not want to acknowledge your error.
You're right, I don't read the chemical engineers handbook every night before I go to bed because I wrote it. :lol2:
 

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