Electric Fence

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Brute 23

Brute 23
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Looking at building about 3000' of electric fence as a cross fence to help with rotating. Im not up to speed on all the new gadgets out there. The idea is we will set metal corners pipes with a single dead man. Going to try out those galvanize pipes with the bolt in braces. There will be one gap about 1/2 way thru and a gate on each end. The plan will be to run 1 wire with pretty wide post spacing to start, then add more posts and more wire until its a solid 5 wire fence.

Any issues using barbed wire?

How far of spacing can I go the first year on tposts? 30' or more?

What is the best way to attach the wire to the corners?

If we decide to put a gate half way rather than a gap what is the best way to go around/ thru the gate?

Pictures and links are very helpful. :tiphat:
 

Bigfoot

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Most here will say don't use barbed wire. Some say it's illegal. Per usual, I'm the opposite. Set your corner post well enough you can draw your wire as tight as you can. It'll give far less trouble than a smooth wire. For reasons I dont understand, but my fence is hotter through barbed wire than smooth wire.
 

Redgully

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In Australia it is illegal. Reason i was given is an animal can get tangled in barb wire and if the barbs penetrate the skin the shock is excruciating. Massive fines to boot. For those reasons i like to run an earth and a hot wire.
 

Philip-TX

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I put a "temp" fence around some Kleingrass I planted last spring to control grazing and let it establish a cpl seasons.
I came up with these ugly little jewels and just made some more to do and second patch (+/- 3ac.) this year.

It is top rail cox-fence pipe cut into pieces, with little clips to hole in place.
The triangle piece slides down loosely over the "tits" and the little clips slides on from the back of the post to hold it in place. I made several different angles coming off the posts for H-braces & corners, and some the come off the back of the post (for slight curves) that support perpendicular to the fence.
Hopefully the pics can tell the story.










 

Stocker Steve

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High tensile wire
Post spacing depends on topography, but I usually go 50 feet.
Speed Brace corner brackets
Poly wire and two spring handles xfers the juice across gate opening
 

sstterry

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Stocker Steve said:
High tensile wire
Post spacing depends on topography, but I usually go 50 feet.
Speed Brace corner brackets
Poly wire and two spring handles xfers the juice across gate opening

I am not a fan of the spring handles because they are not as durable and if you get a short inside one you never know it (without checking).
 

greggy

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Dont power barb....that is asking for trouble, and as per others, illegal down here....you may end up with an animal tearing itself if it accidentally touches....

Train them all in a small area for a few weeks first, they will wary of all fences if your energiser is a decent strong one....on some internal fences I put a top hotwire where a lot use barb, none of mine put heads over any fence...

A weak energiser should be avoided at all cost, you may get some animals that will test to see if wire is on....some can sense the pulse it seems.

Poly wire works well once they know it will bite them, but that is more for fences you will move. It is good to train them with too as is easily seen...handy for making small exclusion or hold areas too...

You need a good voltmeter for testing...

Where you have gates, you use high voltage insulated gal wire run under ground, I put it in 2 lots of poly pipe, and turn ends down so water does not enter the pipe...

There is a lot too it, an electrical background helps 😀
 

Philip-TX

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Caustic Burno said:
http://wedgeloc.com/products.html

^^yep!!!...There it is^^^^
Couldn't remember the name. But I utilized their 'concept'
But they cost twice as much as a t-post that is being braced, and I enjoy build'n stuff.
 
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Brute 23

Brute 23

Brute 23
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Thanks, all helpful advice.

Does any on have any ideas for keeping the wire away from the metal corner posts? With wood I could use the hammer/nail on insulators. Not sure what to do with the metal.

Has any one used these? It has peaked my interest because we have 2 7/8 tubing laying around. It would save a lot of money over the galvanized pipe.

Angle Brace Kit - Buy Fence Pipe Fittings | Bullet Fence Systems
https://bulletfence.com/collections/all/products/fence-bullet-angle
 

Philip-TX

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Brute 23 said:
Thanks, all helpful advice.

Does any on have any ideas for keeping the wire away from the metal corner posts? With wood I could use the hammer/nail on insulators. Not sure what to do with the metal.

Has any one used these? It has peaked my interest because we have 2 7/8 tubing laying around. It would save a lot of money over the galvanized pipe.

Angle Brace Kit - Buy Fence Pipe Fittings | Bullet Fence Systems
https://bulletfence.com/collections/all/products/fence-bullet-angle

PVC sleeves
 
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Brute 23

Brute 23

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Philip-TX said:
Brute 23 said:
Thanks, all helpful advice.

Does any on have any ideas for keeping the wire away from the metal corner posts? With wood I could use the hammer/nail on insulators. Not sure what to do with the metal.

Has any one used these? It has peaked my interest because we have 2 7/8 tubing laying around. It would save a lot of money over the galvanized pipe.

Angle Brace Kit - Buy Fence Pipe Fittings | Bullet Fence Systems
https://bulletfence.com/collections/all/products/fence-bullet-angle

PVC sleeves

Good idea. I like that. Thanks
 

bbirder

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If you use the tubing you have, be sure to put a vertical post at the foot brace or put in H braces at the corners. This will allow you to pull your wires tighter. With just the angle brace down I find they tend to lean towards the inner angle of your corner and loosen the `wire. :2cents:
 

greggy

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Brute 23 said:
Thanks, all helpful advice.

Does any on have any ideas for keeping the wire away from the metal corner posts? With wood I could use the hammer/nail on insulators. Not sure what to do with the metal.

Has any one used these? It has peaked my interest because we have 2 7/8 tubing laying around. It would save a lot of money over the galvanized pipe.

Angle Brace Kit - Buy Fence Pipe Fittings | Bullet Fence Systems
https://bulletfence.com/collections/all/products/fence-bullet-angle

I use porcelain insulators...the post side wire is seperated from the electric side wire....pretty simple

You can get plastic end insulators...there are 2 kinds...standard plastic and a heavy duty.....TBH plastic wont stand up over time and venerable too fire...porcelain is well proven in othe electrical fields

I can try and take some photos later if you like....lots of good electric fence info from various aussie manufacturers

https://www.google.com/search?q=porcelain+electric+fence+insulator&client=ms-android-hms-tmobile-us&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiJ98XJ-ZXnAhVt6nMBHfFmAEEQ_AUoAXoECA0QAQ&biw=360&bih=560#imgrc=oMcCL3t3XXeF6M
 

greggy

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On inside corners....I use round porcelain....and the tie wire is made so it will match whatever offset I am using....which is usually 1ft...

My thinking is a ringlock or hinge joint fence to keep everything in or out...and an offset hot wire that will keep all animals off the physical fence....I have it low down so keeos sheep sized animals away too....my cattle know not to go near any fence...trained them in a smallish area with poly wire and offset fence wires....and with a hot top wire in one section. One heifer will always test to see if a poly wire is on...if not hooked up, she will walk over it....

1 strand of poly does not work that well if large animals are excited to eat if in a small area....they are too clumsy and distracted....but 1 strand for strip grazing is fantastic usually....but you can always have that 1 animal
 

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