Dodge trailer lights (rig around)

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callmefence

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2017 has a fuse for every light on the truck and every trailer light. Rt, lt, stop etc has it's own fuse. Well it's got a dime sized hole burned in the fuse box into the connector. (Long story)
Thinking about just tapping into the truck lights. It's a flatbed so be really easy to do compared to replacing fuse box and wiring harness. All my trailers have LED lights. I think that's good lol
You see any problems, jackpots or pitfalls???
Thanks
Fence.
 
Depending on what amp fuse (s) you need . I would use fuse taps to do it .
Led lights use very few amps . So it shouldn't be a issue using a number of fuse taps as needed
Or another option would be to add a fuse block . That would be way easier then to replace the factory fuse block if the factory fuse box doesn't have any empty slots to add new fuses.
 
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Most all auto part stores will have fuse connector pigtails . If you don't want to replace the entire wire harness . Heat shrink butt connectors and the pigtails are easier then trying to splice in just connectors to existing wire.
 
Most all auto part stores will have fuse connector pigtails . If you don't want to replace the entire wire harness . Heat shrink butt connectors and the pigtails are easier then trying to splice in just connectors to existing wire.
I pulled fuse box intending to cut the 2 wires to each fuse and splice in a fused pigtail. Problem is it burned 2 jcase fuses as well. Seems like they feed the mini fuses through a power strip. It could all certainly be done but it would be a rig stuffed under the fuse box.

That wiring harness for the truck taillights is right there easy to get at. 12 inches from the trailer plug. My trailer brake, and 12volt acc. Is still good. Just need all light circuits. Used to that's how trailer lights were wired right to the truck lights. I'm thinking that's what I'm going to try in the morning.
 
Fuse box is easy I've pulled it out several times. The burnt connector is going to require a new harness or some kinda electrical surgeon.
Speaking of electrical surgery, a year ago or so my darn blower motor resistor went out on my Chevy and I wanted to do business with a sorta friend (first mistake) who does parts and I waited several days because he had to order the "right one" and then I get home... and it's the wrong one. Well, luckily this had happened on an off cycle (I was working a Panama schedule) but I had to get to work so I started shucking wires and doing lineman's splices and by God, I got it in there and working just right.

Serves me right buying a Chevy, I'm just lucky I like work on cars because she gives me a reason about every six months without fail.
 
Speaking of electrical surgery, a year ago or so my darn blower motor resistor went out on my Chevy and I wanted to do business with a sorta friend (first mistake) who does parts and I waited several days because he had to order the "right one" and then I get home... and it's the wrong one. Well, luckily this had happened on an off cycle (I was working a Panama schedule) but I had to get to work so I started shucking wires and doing lineman's splices and by God, I got it in there and working just right.

Serves me right buying a Chevy, I'm just lucky I like work on cars because she gives me a reason about every six months without fail.
Blower motor hasn't worked in this particular truck for a couple years. In fact it might have been under warranty when it quit. Just didn't have time to take it in. Ram don't make trucks for those who need things like AC and dashboards. But they'll damn sure work for you doing what counts.
 
Blower motor hasn't worked in this particular truck for a couple years. In fact it might have been under warranty when it quit. Just didn't have time to take it in. Ram don't make trucks for those who need things like AC and dashboards. But they'll damn sure work for you doing what counts.
Shoulda bought a darn Dodge, that's what my wife has and it's only needed my time twice outside of changes. When the blower motor resistor went out on my Chevy it stood to kill the battery by refusing to shut off.

Well, I already said it, serves me right.
Almost time for a new one.
 
They make j case fuse pigtails as well. I would use the empty spots in the fuse box before cutting and taping into wireing harness. While led lights don't use much amps sometimes using existing fuse is enough to do funny things to the computer if it reads the amps are different then they are supposed to be in a dedicated circuit.
 
If my question didn't make sense my apologies. If you don't understand you've never worked on trailer lights all day.

My new question is how do you burn up a truck and make it look like a accident.?

Don't set it afire, roll it into a pond. Same results, but easier to explain to ins. It slipped out of gear and rolled in. :(
:(
 
I see no reason it wouldn't be fine. I think the extra fuse/circuit came about because hinky trailer lights used to make all your lights not work. Things like what may have happened to your fuse box for example. Now you can isolate out a problem to just your trailer or truck. Like you said they did it that way for 50 years no reason it wouldn't work today.

Edit to add: I feel your pain. I usually have 2-3 pulling trucks and right now I am down to 5 trailers but had as many as 7 at one time. I swear it is a full time job keeping lights and brakes working and all the tire holding air even close to the right amount.
 
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I see no reason it wouldn't be fine. I think the extra fuse/circuit came about because hinky trailer lights used to make all your lights not work. Things like what may have happened to your fuse box for example. Now you can isolate out a problem to just your trailer or truck. Like you said they did it that way for 50 years no reason it wouldn't work today.
I'm a USDA certified dumb*** but the one thing I can call absolutely certain on is that if your grandfather could fix it that way then so can you and if not, throw the darn thing out and buy an older one.

These new vehicles that require computer stuff for most everything... no thanks.
 
I'd wire it into the tail lights. If you don't have a Power Probe tester I'd invest in one....if you work on trailer lights much.
 
I replaced the whole box on my 2006, about $330 a day was plug and
Play simple. Dodge wanted $1998 to do it.
Did that on an old Ford. Far better to do it yourself if you know what you're doing.

Still running the original box on my 2006 Dodge. Best truck I've ever owned, which is why I haven't gotten rid of it LOL. I have people coming up to me wanting to buy it literally nearly every time I'm out with it. Six speed manual/Cummins 5.9, pre all the DEF and other emissions garbage. Not fast, not pretty, but has been reliable.
 
If my question didn't make sense my apologies. If you don't understand you've never worked on trailer lights all day.

My new question is how do you burn up a truck and make it look like a accident.?
Drive the truck to Portland, Austin, or Chicago and leave the doors unlocked. They'll take care of things from there.
 
Guess if I was gonna do it, I'd try to use relays. Would take three, that would isolate the truck side if things went bad on the trailer, and might keep the truck's computer from wigging out. That's likely exactly what Ram has going on in the TIPM. Fuse the power feed to each relay appropriately and it's as safe as what the truck came with.

I'm not sure if you could use a fuse tap, as the fuses likely just feed the switches, you'd want to tap in after the switch for the lights to work properly.
 

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