controling mesquite

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Anonymous

Would any of you mind letting me know what you've had the best results in with killing mesquite? I've some dozer work I have to do, but I know it's not going to take out the root system. I'm looking at the remedy leaf spray method. What's types and methods have worked well for ya'll. Thanx
 
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Anonymous

You might look at the following links and play with the parent directories. Also do some searches for "brush busters" articles put out by Texas A&M.

Craig

<A HREF="http://agpublications.tamu.edu/pubs/rem/l5144.pdf" TARGET="_blank">http://agpublications.tamu.edu/pubs/rem/l5144.pdf</A>

<A HREF="http://agpublications.tamu.edu/catalog/topics/Rangelands.html" TARGET="_blank">http://agpublications.tamu.edu/catalog/topics/Rangelands.html</A>
 
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Anonymous

David, If you have scatter individual trees I have used a backpack sprayer, using Remedy and diesel, the basel stem application method with 95% plus control. Only a few cc's per plant. With multi-stem trees the foliar application may be a better approach. Be sure to observe the timing of application and soil moisture guidelines for best results.

Would any of you mind letting me
> know what you've had the best
> results in with killing mesquite?
> I've some dozer work I have to do,
> but I know it's not going to take
> out the root system. I'm looking
> at the remedy leaf spray method.
> What's types and methods have
> worked well for ya'll. Thanx

[email protected]
 
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Anonymous

Thanks Mike, I've got both. Basel and multi-stem. This was a 100 acres that was shredded a few years in a row and then let go for about the last three years. I guess I'll have to wait for late spring and go the folage method. I just didn't want to wait that long. Maybe invest in one those sprayers that mount on the bck of a 4 wheeler. Do you really need the diesel or will water work?
 
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Anonymous

> Thanks Mike, I've got both. Basel
> and multi-stem. This was a 100
> acres that was shredded a few
> years in a row and then let go for
> about the last three years. I
> guess I'll have to wait for late
> spring and go the folage method. I
> just didn't want to wait that
> long. Maybe invest in one those
> sprayers that mount on the bck of
> a 4 wheeler. Do you really need
> the diesel or will water work?

Diesel is only for spraying the stem, say from ground level up to about 2 or 3 feet above ground. I think the label for Remedy says to mix 1 part Remedy to 3 parts diesel. I get good results with a little more like a 20% solution. (Remedy is pretty expensive, but so is a pasture full of mesquite). For foliar application use Remedy and water according to the label, along with a surfacant.

I don't have mesquite, but I have a lot of huisache, a noxious brushy plant/tree that is similar to mesquite. I was advised, and it has definitely proven to be the case in my situation, that the stem treatment works better (higher root kill). In addition, you can apply the stem treatment with diesel virtually any time of year, including winter. If you decide to go with the foliar treatment I believe you'll find that the Remedy label also says to mix Grazon P+D in along with the Remedy and water. You have to have a private applicator's license to buy Grazon. Lastly, if you are near certain crop growing areas, particularly cotton, there will probably be a prohibition against using Grazon in the area for much of the growing season, due to possible damage to row crop plants from spray drift.
 
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Anonymous

> Diesel is only for spraying the
> stem, say from ground level up to
> about 2 or 3 feet above ground. I
> think the label for Remedy says to
> mix 1 part Remedy to 3 parts
> diesel. I get good results with a
> little more like a 20% solution.
> (Remedy is pretty expensive, but
> so is a pasture full of mesquite).
> For foliar application use Remedy
> and water according to the label,
> along with a surfacant.

> I don't have mesquite, but I have
> a lot of huisache, a noxious
> brushy plant/tree that is similar
> to mesquite. I was advised, and it
> has definitely proven to be the
> case in my situation, that the
> stem treatment works better
> (higher root kill). In addition,
> you can apply the stem treatment
> with diesel virtually any time of
> year, including winter. If you
> decide to go with the foliar
> treatment I believe you'll find
> that the Remedy label also says to
> mix Grazon P+D in along with the
> Remedy and water. You have to have
> a private applicator's license to
> buy Grazon. Lastly, if you are
> near certain crop growing areas,
> particularly cotton, there will
> probably be a prohibition against
> using Grazon in the area for much
> of the growing season, due to
> possible damage to row crop plants
> from spray drift.

Has anyone tried Roundup? Is it cost effective?

[email protected]
 
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Anonymous

> Has anyone tried Roundup? Is it
> cost effective?

I have not tried Roundup for brush, mesquite, etc. When I first got determined to do something about my problem I contacted to local county extension agent and made inquiries at a number of farm & ranch supply outfits. Everyone encouraged me to use Remedy and not Roundup --- so I assume that Roundup just doest't have what it takes to get good root kill (it may defoliate the brush or tree temporarily but not kill the root system?) And of course Roundup is fairly expensive also, although I believe it's cost has come down in recent years --- especially if you buy it in a large drum like the farmers use. Roundup may be worth a try on a test basis, but of course you would have to wait until spring green-up.
 
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Anonymous

> Thanks Mike, I've got both. Basel
> and multi-stem. This was a 100
> acres that was shredded a few
> years in a row and then let go for
> about the last three years. I
> guess I'll have to wait for late
> spring and go the folage method. I
> just didn't want to wait that
> long. Maybe invest in one those
> sprayers that mount on the bck of
> a 4 wheeler. Do you really need
> the diesel or will water work?

You have added a key word to this situation, "shreaded mesquite". The per cent control may be reduced with either method because it will be difficult to translocate enought herbicide from the multi-stem foliage to kill the root system. All carbohydrates stored in the root must be used up by the tree for a kill. The addition of picloram may enhance control but the precautions memtioned by others are a must to abide by to prevent problems to surrounding vegetation by either drift during application or persistence in the soil, should treated soil be moved during rainfall runoff. You will probably never be completely rid of the brush problem soon, but repeated periodic applications will be a good control not an eradicant.

[email protected]
 

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