denoginnizer
Well-known member
What chemical is most effective on controlling cockle burrs? When is the best time of year to spray them. New place has lot of potential but many many cockle burrs.
Cockle Burr
- Thread starter denoginnizer
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What type of plant? I'm asking due to the differences in names from location to location. Cockle Burrs up here are tall (toward the end of August, about 4 1/2' tall), branchy plants with about 1/2 -3/4" burrs at the junction between the stem and the branch. If that is what you are talking about, glyphosphate will kill them. I'm not sure about 2-4D, as I haven't tried it.
denoginnizer
Well-known member
I should of said what chemical will kill the cockle burr and not harm fescue grass. These burrs are about the size the first joint of a mans pointing finger. They are currently green but they will turn brown soon. They have many spiked looking things on them. Someone once told me they sold them as porcupine eggs.
denoginnizer":2jzlober said:
2,4-d while they are growing but before they start to form seed. Actaully it will kill them after they form the seed but what's the point, the damage (potential) has already been done.
dun
Yes, that does put a whole twist on things. The only thing I can tell you is that there are only 2 weeds I have found that 3 ozs of 2-4D/gallon of water won't kill - bindweed and milkpod. You might also want to check out Banvil. I don't have any personal experience with Banvil, mainly due to the price of it. I'm not sure if it is restricted or not.
Sugar Creek
Well-known member
I once got kinda put down on these boards when I said I bushhogged for weed control. Never owned a spayer except a little backpack for spraying ditches along the road to keep them open.
Cockleburs are the one weed that really have given me problems. When I came here in 1972 there was not one on the place. They came in the mid 1980s in some hay I bought. They have decorated the calves I sell in October each year since despite mowing twice a year.
This years drought has had one beneficial result - no cockleburs as yet. Only mowed the pastures once and main weeds are a few ironweeds about half their normal height.
Will the cockleburs be back next year if we get better rain? One reason I do not spray is that I hate to lose the clovers that dilute the effects of the fescue. May have to consider it for i really hate those cockleburs.
Cockleburs are the one weed that really have given me problems. When I came here in 1972 there was not one on the place. They came in the mid 1980s in some hay I bought. They have decorated the calves I sell in October each year since despite mowing twice a year.
This years drought has had one beneficial result - no cockleburs as yet. Only mowed the pastures once and main weeds are a few ironweeds about half their normal height.
Will the cockleburs be back next year if we get better rain? One reason I do not spray is that I hate to lose the clovers that dilute the effects of the fescue. May have to consider it for i really hate those cockleburs.
Sugar Creek":27xyefe9 said:
The main problem with mowing them is that they will continue to get lower until they finally start putting out seeds just a couple of inches above the groound, star thistle and spiny pigweeed are the only other plants that I've found that starts to grow lower and lower and seed out just above the ground.
Without spraying, we just spot spray the cocklebur, pulling and/or cutting just at the ground level will slow them down, some of them will even die. But the survivors are even harder to kill. I know I'm beginning to sound like I own shares in a 2,4-d factory, but 2,4-d will kill them while the are small and once the seed bank is exhausted they won;t come back.
dun
ctlbaron":27s5p92y said:
I pulled up a couple hundred pounds Saturday and piled them on a tarp. This morning I wrapped them up like a giant burritio and pulled them up near the barn yard where I will burn them this weekend. Was I wasting my time pulling them up?
I too found out that mowing them just made a more compact healthy seed cluster. I think they are purple ribbon quality.
Sugar Creek
Well-known member
Dun, you are the voice of experience on these boards. Thanks for the information.
While we are talking of weeds that adhere to cattle hides -
What is that legumy looking plant with tiny purple flowers and a triangular seed pod that sticks to cattle in the fall about sale time? They are only a problem in stockpiled pasture for me ( I think the cattle like them ) where I have let some lezpedeza and grass grow for October grazing. I have spent many an hour scraping these off my jeans after squirrel hunting or feeding square baled fall cut hay. They can really get thick on the cattle. Not as bad as cockleburs in getting in the horses mane and tail.
While we are talking of weeds that adhere to cattle hides -
What is that legumy looking plant with tiny purple flowers and a triangular seed pod that sticks to cattle in the fall about sale time? They are only a problem in stockpiled pasture for me ( I think the cattle like them ) where I have let some lezpedeza and grass grow for October grazing. I have spent many an hour scraping these off my jeans after squirrel hunting or feeding square baled fall cut hay. They can really get thick on the cattle. Not as bad as cockleburs in getting in the horses mane and tail.
bigbull338
Well-known member
cockle burrs are a pain either way you look at it.but id still rather bushhogg them.dont want nothing todo with chemicals.got a neighbor that loved to cropdust for armyworms.till we put a stop to it.he would dust over our dairy an house.we had to breath that crapp.neighbor never did that again.cropduster almost his license b/c of that.scott
Sugar Creek":1f5oikyw said:
Sugar Creek, I seem to recall reading on these boards about a variety of 2-4D that will not harm legumes. I'll try to find that post for you.
This is from another thread, the poster was PolledBull:
"2-4-D-B will not kill the clover . The B is buterac . It is safe for lugumes . But It will need to be sprayed as other 2-4-d products, when weeds are small and beware of drift to non target areas . certian crops are very sensative to 2 4 D"
PATB
Well-known member
Is burdock the samething as you are calling cockleburrs? The cows make short work out of them in the pasture. We have problems with them around some of the buildings and hay stacks.
Jake
Well-known member
msscamp":hbxygjl4 said:
I wouldn't suggest using Banvil on anything if there is anything within 5 miles in any direction that might get hurt. It walks like no other chemical I've ever heard of. 2-4D will do best but try to get a safened version.
Sugar Creek
Well-known member
Burdock and cocklebur are two separate weeds. Burdock is much larger with bigger leaves and fewer sticky seed heads. I have a few burdocks, like you around the base of barns and hay stacks. They are easily controlled by pulling or the grubbing hoe.
Cockleburs are the real problem. They are smaller and seem from September to frost to be a regular conglomeration of "porcupine eggs" ready to grab socks, britches legs, cow hair or horse manes and tails.
I've seen foxes with tails so matted with cocklburs they were more like a small wood bat than a fox tail. Spent hour after hour combing them out of horse manes and tails.
This has been a good post with lots of good information.
THANKS
Cockleburs are the real problem. They are smaller and seem from September to frost to be a regular conglomeration of "porcupine eggs" ready to grab socks, britches legs, cow hair or horse manes and tails.
I've seen foxes with tails so matted with cocklburs they were more like a small wood bat than a fox tail. Spent hour after hour combing them out of horse manes and tails.
This has been a good post with lots of good information.
THANKS
Jake":r7ngeskw said:
Thanks, Jake. As previously stated, I've never used it mainly because of the price but also because I've never ran across anything that 2-4D or Roundup wouldn't take care of. The only reason I even suggested it was that an acquaintance said that Banvil mixed with 2-4D would really put a hurting on Canadian Thistle so it sounded like it would work where others wouldn't. Although I foresee no reason I would be using it, I'll keep what you said in mind. Thanks again.
Jake
Well-known member
msscamp":1wpbfz7k said:
The people we buy chemical from said he got in trouble for Banvil hurting a crop 2 miles UPWIND from where he sprayed. And he said that he didn't doubt that it did hurt the beans.
