Chainsaw gurus

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SBMF 2015

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All you guys that run a saw for a living. How often did you turn your bar over?
My Stihl dealer recommend every time I put a new chain on. Just wondering what you guys thought?
 
I don't know the correct answer. I turn the bar over every time I take the chain off to sharpen. Usually by the time the chain is ground down and stretched, the bar is showing wear as well. So when I buy a new chain, I buy a new bar as well.
 
I only replaced a bar when the tip seized or fell apart. I did file the bar fairly regularly and turned it when I thought about it.
 
I turn the bar when I sharpen the chain although I am sure it may get put back the same way it come off. I have found keeping the chain
track cleaned out does help as it keeps the chain from riding high in the sprocket. I run a file handle or small screwdriver down the
chain track and flush with die$el fuel. I have a 350 Pro that is well over 20 years old and we heat with wood......and propane
 
You are supposed to grease the rotating tip. There is a small hole there and the grease gun can be bought at the saw dealer.
That's all I do - grease the tip every time I run it. I've never rotated or flipped the bar intentionally. I never gave it much thought. I do clean the whole chain saw after using it at the end of the day.
 
All you guys that run a saw for a living. How often did you turn your bar over?
My Stihl dealer recommend every time I put a new chain on. Just wondering what you guys thought?
I have three chainsaws i run...i turn the bar over once or twice a year...usually when I file off the flattened out edges on the bar. When the bar gets really old...i'll always run it with the largest dip on the bar's tip (missing metal) on top....so I can remove more bottom bar metal.
I have one chain saw where the bar's oiler is fouled up...so I dip the bar completely in used motor oil and run it for 5 to 10 minutes at a time. I need to fix that one.
Don't keep buying new chains...i have 25 chains I keep sharpening and rotating in service. I haven't bought a new chain in over 15 years....and I sharpen the chain after 4 to 6 hours cutting (over-maintained). Sharp tools make for easy work, less dangerous then dull tools.
 
When I was falling timber I would grind a chain or two every night. So I put on a fresh chain everyday sometimes twice a day. I don't know that I had a schedule for turning over the bar but I do know that I turned it very often. Back then I was burning 2 gallons of gas every day.
Wow...I was plump poopered after 1 gallon of gas in my 30's....i knew when it was time to stop when that first little cloth "nick" to my jeans happened...meant I was tired (not in control) and the saw was getting a bit heavy. I'm lucky if i can run 1/3 of a gallon at age 60.
 
Professional chainsaw bars have no grease hole.
lol, I must be using a non-professional chainsaw. To me, any chainsaw is a professional chainsaw...it can hurt you. I don't use grease in those non-professional bar tip holes for the bearings...cause once in dirt (you will get -hit dirt)...you'll wear those bearings out faster. After i use my saw....i clean it, change the chain to a sharpened one and then use my oil gun (pressured oil) directly into those holes to clean out and oil the tip bearing.
 
lol, I must be using a non-professional chainsaw. To me, any chainsaw is a professional chainsaw...it can hurt you. I don't use grease in those non-professional bar tip holes for the bearings...cause once in dirt (you will get -hit dirt)...you'll wear those bearings out faster. After i use my saw....i clean it, change the chain to a sharpened one and then use my oil gun (pressured oil) directly into those holes to clean out and oil the tip bearing.
A plastic crankcase homeowner clamshell would not last long logging. Keep the bar rails clean and the saw oil pump will provide oil to the tip. If you are cutting in dirty conditions use a solid hard non roller tip bar designed to do so.
 
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I have three chainsaws i run...i turn the bar over once or twice a year...usually when I file off the flattened out edges on the bar. When the bar gets really old...i'll always run it with the largest dip on the bar's tip (missing metal) on top....so I can remove more bottom bar metal.
I have one chain saw where the bar's oiler is fouled up...so I dip the bar completely in used motor oil and run it for 5 to 10 minutes at a time. I need to fix that one.
Don't keep buying new chains...i have 25 chains I keep sharpening and rotating in service. I haven't bought a new chain in over 15 years....and I sharpen the chain after 4 to 6 hours cutting (over-maintained). Sharp tools make for easy work, less dangerous then dull tools.
I'm working on building up chain inventory again. I cut mostly hedge for posts. Change chains every couple hours. Resharpen, and reuse until there's nothing left to sharpen. But you gotta have a bunch of your going to cut a full day.
 
What do most of you use to sharpen a chain. I just use a file clamped to one of those guides, and sharpen it on the saw before I go out cutting firewood a vice on the back of my truck to clamp the bar helps immensely . I have got quite proficient at it and can keep them cutting well right to the end of the chains life. Keeping the rails dressed down so they are even is also important for a straight cut, I have been using a bench grinder for that these days, the foot keeps the bar at rt angles to the stone and I am carefull to only take off enough to get them even, I rotate the bar then. I have also recently bought a gadget that closes the rails so not the slop there. I don't muck around though and will replace a bar once it looks a bit tired and the chain before it is too worn, once it gets back a bit the width of the cut narrows and things tend to hang up a bit. A buy chain in bulk and make up my own, it is not expensive and worth it to have things cutting well again. Bars are not that bad price wise and worth replacing than trying to get more out of a worn one.

Ken
 
To sharpen I just use a file freehand either on my lap or on a tailgate or some such. If kept out of the dirt and rocks I will give each tooth two strokes of the file per tank of gas. Only takes a minute.
 

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