Cattle Fencing
- Thread starter boknows15
- Start date
gonzo
Well-known member
:welcome: I use 6 foot t-posts on all streight runs , and I use landscape timbers for all cornerposts and braces. barbedwire 1 , 2 , and 4 feet from the ground then hot wire at 3 feet. That is for permanant fence. where are you located. :santa:
It would depend on your plans. Are you going to leave this fence up for many years , or is it going to be temporary ? I think the temperament of your cattle means a lot when choosing fence type. I like regular woven wire fence, one strand of barbed wire on the top, with a single hot wire half way up to keep them off the fence. Alternate every other, wood & steel posts. That will cost the most, but it will last for many years, & KEEP THEM IN,{unless they're really wild}. My brother in law has some high tensile fence, but has had a few escape, due to not keeping the fence tight, or the hot wires not working.Also some people try to spread the posts out too far apart with this type of fence. The barbed & hot wire fence mentioned above, would also be an option, If more permanent,I would prefer to use some wood posts,again I think depending on the cattle. I have neighbors the depend on 1 strand of hot-wire to keep them in, But I do not trust that,especially when gone for the day ! ( Plus I've helped round them up a few times too) good luck with your choice. :tiphat:
Named'em Tamed'em
Well-known member
The New Zealand hot wire system has worked perfectly for us for the last 20 years. Nobody gets in or out and is easily repaired.
greybeard
Well-known member
As said above, "depends on your plans" and depends on what is on the other side of your fence. You're fencing in heifers--what about when they cycle into heat? Got a bull nearby? He'll come calling or the heifers will want to make that trip themselves. That bull don't have to be right next door either--they have a good nose for such things.
I use either crossties at the corners, with a horizontal brace between the 2 posts (3 ties make a corner) or sawed to length utility poles. (The only pic I have handy) Look at the right side lower portion:
5 strands of barbed wire--except on the highway side, which is hog wire with 2 strands barbed wire above that. Those kind of corners will last 40 years. Line posts are either treated round wood, T-posts or a combination--such as what OhioBeef suggested. 10-12 ft apart max distance around here.
Around here, a treated landscape timber will be rotted at the ground in 2 years due to the wet climate and the insect population.
A word about cross ties. When ya go to get 'em, take a hammer with you. Bang the tie in several places. They have a habit of looking real good on the outside, but hollow and rotted on the inside.
I don't use elec fence due to the large # of crawling and climbing vines I have still trying to come back, plus we lose elec power about once every 2 weeks..
I use either crossties at the corners, with a horizontal brace between the 2 posts (3 ties make a corner) or sawed to length utility poles. (The only pic I have handy) Look at the right side lower portion:
5 strands of barbed wire--except on the highway side, which is hog wire with 2 strands barbed wire above that. Those kind of corners will last 40 years. Line posts are either treated round wood, T-posts or a combination--such as what OhioBeef suggested. 10-12 ft apart max distance around here.
Around here, a treated landscape timber will be rotted at the ground in 2 years due to the wet climate and the insect population.
A word about cross ties. When ya go to get 'em, take a hammer with you. Bang the tie in several places. They have a habit of looking real good on the outside, but hollow and rotted on the inside.
I don't use elec fence due to the large # of crawling and climbing vines I have still trying to come back, plus we lose elec power about once every 2 weeks..
aprille218
Well-known member
You may also want to check with your insurance person. Some companies require certain fencing along certain areas(highways usually). Ours has to be at least a 4 strand along the road.
denvermartinfarms
Well-known member
For a permanent fence i would want 5 strands of red brand barbedwire and 6 foot t post's. And if you have a way to do it use three steel pipe post's for corners and weld pipe between.
NZ is high tensile. This is the cheapest per sq ft fencing. I have 3 strand perimeter fence (middle one hot - although ALL can be hot if needed). 4 strand would be best, but I do not have any escapies. I use single strand to divide paddocks.bhooper":sx7sbpea said:
HT can be hot or not. If not - I would recommend at least 6 strands. CORNER assemblies are the MOST important thing for fencing - no matter how you go.
Here's probably more than you want to know:
https://utextension.tennessee.edu/publi ... pb1541.pdf
4 strands of barbed wire, 11" from the ground to the bottom wire, then 11" in between each wire. Good for cows, yearlings, and calves. If you have cows so wild that they go over or through that fence, get rid of em. I don't really like using all T-posts, like to have a wood post every 5 posts or so. But if you have good corners and braces, T posts will certainly do the trick. This fence is easy to maintain and repair, and probably as cheap as anything else to construct. You can still add a hot wire if you feel the need. You will hate woven wire if you have to work on it later. No matter what kind of fence you build, spend whatever it takes to make good corners and braces. Good Luck!
Totally - totally agree with the good corner assemblies - and also agree with the woven wire fence.
LRTX1
Well-known member
Good corners do make good fences. Also, not all barbed wire is created equal. I prefer the 3" spacing between the barbs than the 5" or greater.
