Barrier across a creek

[KANSAS]

Does anyone have any good tips on how to run a fence/barrier across a creek. Mine alway seem to get hammered everytime a flood comes through. Pictures would be great.

Thanks in advance.

 

[lilmac]

Do a search on water gap. DUN I think had some pics on a good idea involving cable and sheet iron.
Good luck, Mac

 

[dun]

Do a search on water gap. DUN I think had some pics on a good idea involving cable and sheet iron.
Good luck, Mac

Wasn;t me, but I've seen them. Also hanging a cattle panel over the creek.
It's kind of a balancing act. You have to have the suspension holding up the cable really strong to hold up against the pressure but weak enough that they can carry away if something really big hits it.
I've seen hot wire with droppers haning down almost to the normal water level and the suspension wire high enough that nothing (almost nothing) can actaully hit it to carry it away.

 

[Caustic Burno]

I have a 1/2 dozen on creek crossings here. The H braces on each side of the creek are the trick a tree is better.
Get guy wire cable like the kind used to brace telephone poles.
Get two pieces a little longer than half way across the creek.
Connect the two guy wires with cable clamps. Run another cable about two foot lower than you top cable the same way.
Hang tin from the top cable on the downstream side so when it comes a heavy rain it will open like a check valve. When the water goes down it will rest against the bottom cable.

If you don't have trees to join to get a telephone pole and cut it in thirds set the poles at least 4 feet in the ground using a full 8 foot between the H's. this will hold during a normal flood if a log come's down the creek the clamps will give not tearing up your braces reclamp after the flood water gap is back in business.

 

[rc]

I ran mine similar to CB but stretched cable from trees through pvc pipe and lag bolted tin siding run long ways to the pvc. When the water comes up the siding goes with the flow and down when water goes down. The reason I didn't use one on the bottom was debris catching it.

 

[dcolvin]

I use high-tensile electric fence, so I ran a strand of the electrified 12 1/2 guage wire across the top and then hung a curtain of electrified wires down by tying them to the top wire. I spaced them about 8 inches apart.
I've had the setup about 4 years and once in a while have to adjust the spacing, but the cattle have never gotten out. Just keep the bottom about 6 inches off the water. You'll hear it snapping when the water gets high. It's a pretty cheap and fast solution if you already have electric.

 

[dun]

I have a 1/2 dozen on creek crossings here. The H braces on each side of the creek are the trick a tree is better.
Get guy wire cable like the kind used to brace telephone poles.
Get two pieces a little longer than half way across the creek.
Connect the two guy wires with cable clamps. Run another cable about two foot lower than you top cable the same way.
Hang tin from the top cable on the downstream side so when it comes a heavy rain it will open like a check valve. When the water goes down it will rest against the bottom cable.

If you don't have trees to join to get a telephone pole and cut it in thirds set the poles at least 4 feet in the ground using a full 8 foot between the H's. this will hold during a normal flood if a log come's down the creek the clamps will give not tearing up your braces reclamp after the flood water gap is back in business.

Never used the clamp on the cable, that's a great idea. Beats having to make the braces abe to be torn out. Old dog, new trick

dun

 

[Caustic Burno]

I have a 1/2 dozen on creek crossings here. The H braces on each side of the creek are the trick a tree is better.
Get guy wire cable like the kind used to brace telephone poles.
Get two pieces a little longer than half way across the creek.
Connect the two guy wires with cable clamps. Run another cable about two foot lower than you top cable the same way.
Hang tin from the top cable on the downstream side so when it comes a heavy rain it will open like a check valve. When the water goes down it will rest against the bottom cable.

If you don't have trees to join to get a telephone pole and cut it in thirds set the poles at least 4 feet in the ground using a full 8 foot between the H's. this will hold during a normal flood if a log come's down the creek the clamps will give not tearing up your braces reclamp after the flood water gap is back in business.

Never used the clamp on the cable, that's a great idea. Beats having to make the braces abe to be torn out. Old dog, new trick

dun

Just tighten the clamps tight enough to hold the cable straight.
Cable clamps will slide on that slick cable, heck of lot easier than rebuilding braces. With as many water gaps as I have I stayed bowed up repairing them after every flood. Now I hardly mess with them unless a log come's down the creek. Then all I have to do is put the cable back.
Forgot to add always have some extra cable clamps as they are gone when the gap gets blown out.

 

[Txwalt]

I bought (come alongs) from harbor freight for $10 or $12 each and used those to pull the cable straight and left them there. A few weeks ago the water swelled out of the banks of the creek and knocked down the fence on one side of the creek (snaped the 5 strands of barb and pulled out the pickets all the way to the h-post) but the water gap was fine. Now I've got to figure out how to keep the fence up when the water swells out of the banks. I have a couple ideas.

Walt