Adding a Floating brace to H brace

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Billythekid

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New to the Forum, and floating braces. I'm needing to make a 90 at an exsisting H brace. I was thinking of trying the floater with a 10' diagonal. USDA states corner should be notched at height of 48". Gerrish figures for 8' diagonal set at 33". For a top wire of 50", 6 strand high tensile. Any tips? Thanks Brett
 
Welcome! 48" is too high. Your figure of 33" is much better. Make your mortice and tenon fit tight, and don't skimp on the strut.(diagonal)


 
Do I keep the 33" height on the exsisting H Brace post? It will be a 90. Horizontal sets in between top 2 wires. Thanks again!
 
Both the diagonal and the horizontal member should be at or almost at the same height. You want the force exerted by the floating brace to be transferred as directly and as straight as possible right into the horizontal brace and on to the vertical end post the fence wires are tied to. It works in the opposite direction too if something falls onto the fence wire.
33" will work fine for both. Much higher than that with the diagonal brace and you are tending to push the vertical post up.
Hope you have good hard ground or a big flat rock to set the other end of the floating brace on. I tried them here in a few places and my ground gets too soggy for too long and the 20" X 20" concrete pad I set the floating brace on sunk down into the soil and everything with the floating brace got loose. I quickly gave up trying to use them.
After you've tensioned the fence wire and everything has settled in good, loosely staple or tie the bottom 2 strands of fence wire to the diagonal brace to help keep the cows from pushing it off the pad or rock.
 
The H brace I'm adding the 90 to is around 48" or a little less. I might finish it as a 90 h brace.
 
I personally use 38"
One reason. It doesn't interfere with any netwire line wires or bw spacing, for the most part.

You asked for tips. Sink a Deadman to attach that diagonal to. A floating brace is like a sports bra on a Holstein......just plain silly.
 

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