Acid wash an trailer?????

Bigfoot

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My horse trailer, is getting dull. I'm toying with the idea of acid washing it. I'd rather have it done, but I'm not aware of anyone in my immediate area that does that. I have some painted surfaces, but most are aluminum. I'm not sure what is covering the nose, but it looks like new money. Is it a mistake to to acid wash it myself? Is it a mistake to acid wash it period?
 
BF they sell an acid wash solution specifically for horse trailers at some of the big trailer places that I don't think you could go wrong with.
However if you want to have it done, people here take them to a a truck wash/detail place. Where they do Semi trucks and trailers. I know several people that take them in every couple of years or so. They turn out nice!
I need to have mine done also.
 
Let me preface with a disclaimer that I know nothing about horse trailers.....

That said, generally speaking acids are not kind to bare metals. Discoloration, pitting, corrosion of ferrous metals, etc.

As a general rule most metals will respond best to neutral ph, or near neutral to either side, with a good degreaser and surfactant content. So if it just looks dull, wash and scrub thoroughly, followed by a clear coat of wax. Test an inconspicuous area first to see if that will give you the results you're looking for.

If you need to remove something specific that is reactive to acids, you'll need to neutralize it with a higher ph product afterward. Ammonia, diluted to match the strength of the acid used, usually works well as a neutralizer.
 
I deal in oil based paint a lot, most trailers are painted in this so called "tractor paint", if that is what you have and it is chalking up, then the safest thing to do is just use some elbow grease when you wash it. The paint oxidizes much quicker than automotive paint, leaving that chalky film you see.

Ammonia based products, like windex, will cut it really well, you can test it out easily with a rag and NO water, just rub it out while wet.

But yeah, it's going to take some rubbing and scrubbing over that large of an area, and no, I would not acid wash it myself, only other option is to buff it, but that would be a nightmare with all the non-flat surfaces.
 
What I referred to as painted, the industry calls skins. I'm not entirely sure what they are, but they are not really a painted metal sheet. Not in the traditional sense of the word.
 
Oxalic acid is the one that is mostly used on aluminium and stainless steel on boats. I think it is also used in gelcoat restorer when it goes a bit chalky and then followed with a good wax.
Ken
 
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I use the stuff that you clean coils in AC units, I get it at the hardware store they have acid and non acid, I use non acid mix it up spray it on rinse off, you will need to cover your wheels if there painted and on mine I don't use it on the white part it will take the color off, I do mine inside and out costs about 20 dollars.
 
I think its called blue beacon in Sonora ky right on I 65. Do a great job. For at home elbow grease and comet do ok. But those big truck wash deals make them look new.
 
I may not get a nibble on my thread, but I'm changing the direction. I now want to not only acid wash it, but after I acid wash it, I'd like to remove the dot tape, and pinstripeing, and reapply. luckily, the pinstripes, are a straight line, and nothing fancy. I found the the exact same stripes for $25 for a 150' roll. Reapplying the stripes and DOT tape, is not going to be a big job. How big of a job is it going to be, to remove the old? How clean will I need to get the surface to reapply?
 
Bigfoot":3aa98q6q said:
I may not get a nibble on my thread, but I'm changing the direction. I now want to not only acid wash it, but after I acid wash it, I'd like to remove the dot tape, and pinstripeing, and reapply. luckily, the pinstripes, are a straight line, and nothing fancy. I found the the exact same stripes for $25 for a 150' roll. Reapplying the stripes and DOT tape, is not going to be a big job. How big of a job is it going to be, to remove the old? How clean will I need to get the surface to reapply?
Removing the old pin stripping isn't going to be much of a job. Go to your local paint and body supply house of get a can of the solvent specifically used to take that stuff off. I don't know a lot about "acid washing" but I had a buddy once who built aluminum doodle bug boats and he went to great lengths to prepare the aluminum for painting including "acid washing" and priming with an etching primer before applying the top coats of paint. The top coats he used was Imron made by DuPont. The paint stayed new looking for ever and never got dull or oxidized. Hope this helps.
 
I did not read your first post thoroughly, I didn't realize it was the aluminum you were trying to clean. :oops:

I do however have lots of experience removing stripes. You might get lucky if you use the can of solvent lavaca is talking about? I haven't tried any of the newer stuff.

If not and the stripes are not too old, use a heat gun (or direct sunlight sometimes) and pull them off slowly, this is the best method as it will remove the adhesive at the same time, this works on "most" jobs and is cleanest and fastest. If the stripes are old then it will leave the adhesive and will take a lot of elbow grease to remove. The adhesive will have to be rubbed off with a solvent like plain alcohol, the orange based stuff, or the spray on stuff they sell at the store. Alcohol works just as well in most cases.

They also sell a rubber wheel that rubs off the whole decal, but I'm afraid it will mar your finish leaving an uneven look, but it is faster.

If it's reflective, then it is a bigger pain.
 
It's got two different shades of pinstriping. The blue came off as easy as you please. The khaki color stripe is nearly impossible to remove. I'm afraid I will be dead before I get the DOT tape off.
 

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