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I looked at my 255. It does not have the hole you mentioned. The operators and repair manuals only shows one zerk on each side. Most zerks are either 1/4-28 or 1/16 npt in inch sizes. I've not seen a press in zerk. I've seen press in oil ports, but I would think the pressure you can generate...

That is correct on the injectors, but I believe currently it only applies to '01-' 03. I've heard speculation that '04 may be included soon. As was said about the B&W ball, I would highly recommend it. And as far as TNMBP not liking the Duramax, that has to mean they are all right. :D

For those with expierence with Biodiesel, I have a few questions. What do you do to overcome the gelling problems in cool/cold weather? What percentage of biodiesel to regular diesel are you running? What do you do with the remaining glycerol and waste water?

Found a couple more that might be worth checking into. http://kansascity.craigslist.org/grd/719639179.html http://kansascity.craigslist.org/grd/719920183.html

This is right across the Kansas line just south of KC. http://kansascity.craigslist.org/grd/715574894.html

Don't know if you found one yet, but might check into this. http://kansascity.craigslist.org/grd/708874651.html Good luck. Bryan

Don't know what part of MO you live in. This site list auctions in MO, KS & NE. I see chutes in the listings every once in a while. http://www.greenacressells.com/

Could be any number of things, I don't own a Deere, but my Massey uses a diode on the charge circuit. If the diode is bad the voltage can pass through (the wrong direction) and cause problems. Just a thought. Good luck

It's never the planned stopping that gets you. Call me chicken, there is no way I'm latching onto a loaded stock trailer with a half ton truck unless the trailer has great brakes. Even then I'd have to think hard about it. There is no comparing the extra weight, brake diameters and stopping...

The wife's Dakota did the same thing, turned out to be the A/C box had pulled away from the wall. The box the the evaporator coils are in. I had to pull the wipers and the cowl and reach down and coat the thing with silicone seal. Stopped the leak. Not saying that's the problem, but it'd be...

Dun, I would think the magnetic heater would make a big difference. I had an old car in the winter I'd put a drop light on each side of the block and it would keep it warmer. Only way I could get the thing started on bitter cold days. The only other suggestion I could make is synthetic oils...

Pulling it is one thing, stopping it is another. IMHO 1/2 ton trucks are short on brakes. You can get away with if, if your both careful and lucky.

I have no intention of doing the floor in the stuff, just the walls. I'm not sure that sealing the wood that way wouldn't cause more problems then it would cure. So if I'm only doing the walls and cross members, one kit would be more than enough. As far as warranty, I'd seriously doubt if they...

I guess I'm cheap, I was more thinking the $89.00 brush on kit from Tractor Supply.

I have an older stock trailer that has rusted thru the sheet metal in the front and a few small holes along the sides. I'm going to cut out and weld in new pieces to replace the bad sections. After the entire trailer will be sand blasted and repainted. My question is this. What is everyone's...

I don't think it'll take as much weight up front as you think either. I handle my bales with my 1952 Allis chalmers WD. Some will laugh I'm sure but it was cheap and it's paid for. Here's the specs on it. Power: Drawbar (HP): 19 PTO (HP): 26 Dimensions: Weight (pounds): 3,500...

If you are cutting you will go through alot of oxygen. The lever that you push to do the actual cutting after preheat sends a stream of pure oxygen thru the center of the torch. The amount of pressure you should use there is dependant on the thickness of the metal your cutting. If your just...

What the posts are telling you is right, but the only thing I'd add is adjusting a torch is something very easy to show, and almost impossible to describe in writing. I'd suggest if possible to find someone in your area with some expierence and have them give you some pointers.

The speed you are running is about appropriate. I would guess you could get by with somewhere around 80 SFM (surface feet per minute) on a high speed bit in grade 5 bolt. That would make the correct RPM 977 (SFM/DIA/.262=RPM). You can get by with a feed rate of .005 IPR (inches per revolution)...

IMHO there are two classes of riding tractors, the consumer models sold almost anywhere and the premium tractors sold at a few specific dealers. The biggest differences are in the way they are built. The consumer models have light stamped sheet metal frames with a stamped sheet metal weldment...