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Wood Fence Post Question
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<blockquote data-quote="Ebenezer" data-source="post: 1296873" data-attributes="member: 24565"><p>Most posts rot at ground line due to wet/dry and higher levels of fungi and bacteria. Angle on top has nothing to do with that expect makes birds "drop" seeds on one side only. Concrete will not help with rot but stability. Rock mix like crusher run or macadam for packing will drain well, have less organics to react or carry populations of fungi and bacteria. The strength of any HT fence is the braces so don't skimp there on posts or depth. Easiest I have done is 4-5" post ever 100' or on high and low points and fiberglass ever 20+' in between. Look at treatment level on posts or ask. Old CCA or find an equivalent chart for newer treatments. 0.25 lbs/cu. ft. (like landscape timbers) will be gone quickly. Get 0.4 lbs/cu.ft CCA or equivalent as a minimum. Cedar will be too loose in a short while unless you scab off sapwood.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Ebenezer, post: 1296873, member: 24565"] Most posts rot at ground line due to wet/dry and higher levels of fungi and bacteria. Angle on top has nothing to do with that expect makes birds "drop" seeds on one side only. Concrete will not help with rot but stability. Rock mix like crusher run or macadam for packing will drain well, have less organics to react or carry populations of fungi and bacteria. The strength of any HT fence is the braces so don't skimp there on posts or depth. Easiest I have done is 4-5" post ever 100' or on high and low points and fiberglass ever 20+' in between. Look at treatment level on posts or ask. Old CCA or find an equivalent chart for newer treatments. 0.25 lbs/cu. ft. (like landscape timbers) will be gone quickly. Get 0.4 lbs/cu.ft CCA or equivalent as a minimum. Cedar will be too loose in a short while unless you scab off sapwood. [/QUOTE]
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