u4411clb
Well-known member
Is there anything that I can spray in the late fall or winter on Kentucky 31 and White Clover that will kill broadleaf weeds but not kill off all of my clover?
Weed Control on Kentucky 31 and White Clover
- Thread starter u4411clb
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skyhightree1
Well-known member
Dun will forefront r&p kill clover to the roots ?
skyhightree1
Well-known member
gotcha i used it when i had a marestail major flair up earlier this year so just wondered.
M.Magis
Well-known member
You could use Butyrac 2,4,DB and it’ll have no effects on your clover, but it’ll cost a good bit more than 2,4,D.
u4411clb
Well-known member
To Shaz:
I live in Huntsville but my farm is in New Market so we are neighbors. I thought the way to save the clover was to spray on a day in the late Fall or Winter that hits 60 degrees and that was what helped save the clover because it is dormaint at the time. But I could have gotten bad advice.
I live in Huntsville but my farm is in New Market so we are neighbors. I thought the way to save the clover was to spray on a day in the late Fall or Winter that hits 60 degrees and that was what helped save the clover because it is dormaint at the time. But I could have gotten bad advice.
u4411clb
Well-known member
Yeah thistle and a weed with a yellow flower on it are my main problems in my pastures. Usually it is the thistles in the spring and the yellow flower weeds in the late summer and fall. So has anyone heard of spraying 2, 4 D in fall or winter as long as it is over 60 degrees to help not kill off all of the white clover or is it no difference from that and spraying in the spring. I appreciate everyone's help.
agmantoo
Well-known member
u4411clb
Rather than spray, cannot you use mechanical clipping to reduce the weeds going to seed? I find that I can couple suppression of weeds using my bushhog in the Fall and I can use the fescue through having strong thick stands with aggressive growth to smother competing undesirable weeds. That is what works for me! I know for fact by doing this I have more forage than if I spray. Here is a recent pic of the results that I achieve. Another plus, note the vegetative state the fescue has remained in during a rather hot and a very dry Summer. I make it a point to never stress plants or animals if I can avoid it. Herbicides will set tolerant plants back.
Rather than spray, cannot you use mechanical clipping to reduce the weeds going to seed? I find that I can couple suppression of weeds using my bushhog in the Fall and I can use the fescue through having strong thick stands with aggressive growth to smother competing undesirable weeds. That is what works for me! I know for fact by doing this I have more forage than if I spray. Here is a recent pic of the results that I achieve. Another plus, note the vegetative state the fescue has remained in during a rather hot and a very dry Summer. I make it a point to never stress plants or animals if I can avoid it. Herbicides will set tolerant plants back.
u4411clb
Well-known member
You have a nice field there unfortunately in Alabama we dont get aggressive growth enough months to smother the weeds out. Fescue kind of hits slower growth stage as compared to weeds in Alabama in 95+ degree weather. Which is at the least June-August. I usually bushog once a year but if I did it enough to try to eliminate weeds I would end up spending allot more time and money bushogging and on diesel than spraying I would think.
agmantoo
Well-known member
u4411clb
Have you experimented with trying to keep the fescue in a vegetative state by preventing it from going to seed? I find that I can suppress weeds with the manner that I manage my grasses. I am a committed rotational grazer and I do manage the forages I have using the best methods that work for me. Normally I move the cattle before the grass is eaten too low. I usually get a quick recover after grazing. Now that it is cooler and we did have some rain I can see fescue grass that was grazed as recently as 8 days ago almost suitable for grazing again.
Regarding sprayer versus bush hogging. Certainly the price of spraying has dropped with the reduction in price of the commonly used herbicides such as glyphosate. My own observation has been that while many plants may tolerate certain herbicides is that they are stressed by the application. Even roundup beans are set back following a weed burn down. I get a lot of mileage out of the forages I grow and the benefits from the forages are hard to put a dollar value on. I am running a cow for a full year on 1.4 acres. That includes the cow's calf until it is sold as a feeder calf plus the cow being bred back usually within 45 days on grass alone. If I had to buy feed or supply hay I think my use of the bush hog and the fuel consumed would be a bargain. My fuel consumption since ceasing to bale has dropped noticeably, more than 2/3rds. Not having to spend time making and feeding hay compared to the time I spend managing my forages and herd I know that I am way ahead of where I used to be, both in time and money.
Have you experimented with trying to keep the fescue in a vegetative state by preventing it from going to seed? I find that I can suppress weeds with the manner that I manage my grasses. I am a committed rotational grazer and I do manage the forages I have using the best methods that work for me. Normally I move the cattle before the grass is eaten too low. I usually get a quick recover after grazing. Now that it is cooler and we did have some rain I can see fescue grass that was grazed as recently as 8 days ago almost suitable for grazing again.
Regarding sprayer versus bush hogging. Certainly the price of spraying has dropped with the reduction in price of the commonly used herbicides such as glyphosate. My own observation has been that while many plants may tolerate certain herbicides is that they are stressed by the application. Even roundup beans are set back following a weed burn down. I get a lot of mileage out of the forages I grow and the benefits from the forages are hard to put a dollar value on. I am running a cow for a full year on 1.4 acres. That includes the cow's calf until it is sold as a feeder calf plus the cow being bred back usually within 45 days on grass alone. If I had to buy feed or supply hay I think my use of the bush hog and the fuel consumed would be a bargain. My fuel consumption since ceasing to bale has dropped noticeably, more than 2/3rds. Not having to spend time making and feeding hay compared to the time I spend managing my forages and herd I know that I am way ahead of where I used to be, both in time and money.
