Vegetable pre emergent.

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Redgully

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Evening all. Planning on putting in a fairly decent vege garden in. Just looking for advice on good pre emergent sprays i could use. I can research them up if you only know trade names.
 
A lot would depend on what exactly you are intending to plant. There are several that work well for cucurbit crops ( cucumbers, melons, squash) that would kill tomatoes or potatoes. And the one that I'm familiar with for tomatoes and potatoes is a post emergence that would kill most other crops. But you can research the following

Curbit or Strategy for cucurbits
Sencor (metribuzin) for tomatoes and potatoes
Lexar ez for corn
Accent for grasses in corn
A good hoe for beans
 
I've used Prowl H2O (pendimethalin) with good success; applied it with a backpack sprayer - but it needs a rain or overhead irrigation to activate it. I sprayed this spring when I got the garden plowed and laid off, but we went a month or more with no rain, so by the time we got rain, I suppose large volumes of weed seed had already germinated and they really jumped. I've essentiall 'lost' about half the garden to a jungle of pigweed, Johnsongrass, and morning glory,
 
Morning Glory is evidently a way of life here, with half the people cultivating and the rest of us trying to get rid of it. I see it growing way up in people's peach and fig trees and they either don't mind or have given up trying to control it.
 
I can't help... never have and never will use any chemicals in the garden around food I am going to eat. Get enough chemicals in food and such I have no control over, not willing to put it on stuff I grow.... I till/plow in the spring... and MULCH.... heavy... and then can easily spot weed/pull. My garden this year was 50 x 100 m/l..... 2/3 in potatoes since the da@#&d groundhogs and deer don't seem to eat them.... I use anything for mulch... lay down paper feed sacks that do not have the plastic liners, cardboard, newspapers...mark off your rows and lay them in the "walkways" between the rows.... then old hay/straw/grass clippings on top to hold them and it all will be gone next year when they plow it in the spring... I can pull the morning glories pretty easy that way, and any other weeds because the soil is more moist underneath and come out alot easier than if it is hard concrete/dirt when it gets dry.
I also have earthworms here that were not here the first year they tilled.... I did use some old hay that had been off a field treated for horse nettle and johnson grass and the cucumbers and melons and butternut squash all died... so I am careful where the old hay comes from and if questionable, it sits there for 2 years before I use it...If it kills the plants, what in the world can it be doing to your body????
I don't till it after the initial tilling unless I leave a section for later (hot weather crops) and then might retill and then plant and mulch... all that mulch and stuff adds organic matter and improves the tilth also. My current garden was in grass/lawn for 10 years before I moved here...It had been garden area many years earlier... but they did not use anything but commercial fertilizer and the soil is not as loamy as I would like... going to dump all sorts of leaves and stuff on it this winter to try to improve it more...
 
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I've used Prowl H2O (pendimethalin) with good success; applied it with a backpack sprayer - but it needs a rain or overhead irrigation to activate it. I sprayed this spring when I got the garden plowed and laid off, but we went a month or more with no rain, so by the time we got rain, I suppose large volumes of weed seed had already germinated and they really jumped. I've essentiall 'lost' about half the garden to a jungle of pigweed, Johnsongrass, and morning glory,
I have used that in potatoes and corn with good success. I run a nursery and all the granular pre emergents we use in the pots are switching to pendamethalin as their active ingredient.
 
I can't help... never have and never will use any chemicals in the garden around food I am going to eat. Get enough chemicals in food and such I have no control over, not willing to put it on stuff I grow.... I till/plow in the spring... and MULCH.... heavy... and then can easily spot weed/pull. My garden this year was 50 x 100 m/l..... 2/3 in potatoes since the da@#&d groundhogs and deer don't seem to eat them.... I use anything for mulch... lay down paper feed sacks that do not have the plastic liners, cardboard, newspapers...mark off your rows and lay them in the "walkways" between the rows.... then old hay/straw/grass clippings on top to hold them and it all will be gone next year when they plow it in the spring... I can pull the morning glories pretty easy that way, and any other weeds because the soil is more moist underneath and come out alot easier than if it is hard concrete/dirt when it gets dry.
I also have earthworms here that were not here the first year they tilled.... I did use some old hay that had been off a field treated for horse nettle and johnson grass and the cucumbers and melons and butternut squash all died... so I am careful where the old hay comes from and if questionable, it sits there for 2 years before I use it...If it kills the plants, what in the world can it be doing to your body????
I don't till it after the initial tilling unless I leave a section for later (hot weather crops) and then might retill and then plant and mulch... all that mulch and stuff adds organic matter and improves the tilth also. My current garden was in grass/lawn for 10 years before I moved here...It had been garden area many years earlier... but they did not use anything but commercial fertilizer and the soil is not as loamy as I would like... going to dump all sorts of leaves and stuff on it this winter to try to improve it more...
Obviously i would prefer chemical free but i also know shop bought stuff has every spray known to exist on them so feel I'm no worse off. With my work i get little time to keep on top of weeds so need to try sonething different. And as Silver says, as long as used according to label and follow withholding periods it will be fine. Will try some weedmat with dripline underneath and see it that might be a another way.

I did a trial last year. Best pre emergent i have come across is chateau (flumioxazin) and have seen they are starting to use it in soy crops. So i did a trial last year, i sprayed an area and three weeks later planted seedlings figuring they are past the seed germinating stage. Half got fried within a week and the other half got fried during some rain as the dirt splashed up on them so was a complete failure! And to rub salt in i found summer or crab grass isnt controlled and it went crazy!!
 

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