Trailer stands

RCP

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 14, 2006
Messages
66
City & State/Province
Central Arkansas
I have a 32' GNeck flatbed trailer with a 4' dovetail that I need to build some type of rear stands to stabilize when loading equipment. I have had several ideas but so far none have worked, any ideas ? I think I would like some type of fold down instead of telescoping /pin type. Help !
 
I've seen some folks use the screw-type bull dog topwind jacks for stabalizers. Weld the inner pipe to the outside of the trailer on each side and the jacks will pivot on these. Just pull the pins and take them off, too. Don't know how long they would hold up. Another thing to look at is the 90 degree support coming off the bottom of your ramps. If it's close enough to the ground you shouldn't have much lift up front. Chock the trailer wheels, you'd be surprised how much it helps.

Or just get a bigger truck, that's what I did. :lol:

cfpinz
 
My trailer with similar description has stabilizers welded onto the ramps. When you swing the ramps down the stabilizers will end up vertical and very near the ground. A little weight plants them on the ground. If you have pull out ramps you are SOL.
 
Well I can never have a simple problem. My ramps are 80" long, I wanted them long so the incline would not be so steep. I also wanted them to stand upright at a 90 degree angle to the trailer. I use them as a tailgate to hold my rolls of hay so I do not have to tie them on. When I welded the leg like you mentioned it stuck out 30" behind the trailer ( plenty long enough for me to hang a Cadillac or something out on the road.)
Thanks !' RCP
 
cfpinz":2g69rmr0 said:
I've seen some folks use the screw-type bull dog topwind jacks for stabalizers. Weld the inner pipe to the outside of the trailer on each side and the jacks will pivot on these. Just pull the pins and take them off, too. Don't know how long they would hold up. Another thing to look at is the 90 degree support coming off the bottom of your ramps. If it's close enough to the ground you shouldn't have much lift up front. Chock the trailer wheels, you'd be surprised how much it helps.

Or just get a bigger truck, that's what I did. :lol:

cfpinz

So that's how you conned your wife into letting you get another junker truck!
 
dun":24gn7pry said:
cfpinz":24gn7pry said:
Or just get a bigger truck, that's what I did. :lol:

cfpinz

So that's how you conned your wife into letting you get another junker truck!

That was the dually from Kansas. It's hooked to the trailer setting in the front yard now, 24 5x4 rolls of corn fodder on the trailer, going to try for 26 next time. Only had to drag it 80 miles thru the mountains/foothills this evening. :lol: The FL70's I've been eyeing are looking better and better.

cfpinz
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change.
RCP":27z87fse said:
Well I can never have a simple problem. My ramps are 80" long, I wanted them long so the incline would not be so steep. I also wanted them to stand upright at a 90 degree angle to the trailer. I use them as a tailgate to hold my rolls of hay so I do not have to tie them on. When I welded the leg like you mentioned it stuck out 30" behind the trailer ( plenty long enough for me to hang a Cadillac or something out on the road.)
Thanks !' RCP

Ah, don't worry about those Cadillacs. They look good hooked to the back of a trailer.

In that "what I hate thread" I should have mentioned tailgaters. Thinking about putting a hay spear sticking out the back of my trailer hitch on the truck and Jeep. :shock:
 
I had a piece of 5 inch square tubing with a solid plate welded on the end, a lot like the foot of a goosneck trailer, that swung down and just barely cleared the ground. When the trailer was loaded and you pulled forward it would pop over and leave the foot free so you swung it back up to a storage position. Not sure if that's a good explanation, but it worked.
 
A lot of solutions will work as long as you're on smooth level ground. My most successful method is 4x6 blocks about a foot long. Just stick the appropriate amount under the dovetail. Kind of a pain to place them and pick them up, but it works .........
 
Another method is weld large rectangular tubing to the ramp portion of the dove tail. It will stick up when ramps are folded but hit the ground when used for loading. They also help hold round bales on the back.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top