Stock Tank Construction

[dcara]

I plan to dig a new tank. It will be circular about 100ft in diameter with 3:1 slopes and 14ft deep. I thiink I'm just going to rent a track loader and do it myself. However, its been 30 years since I was on a Dozer. Even then it was mostly just brush clearing and some basic shaping. So I thought I'd see if any of you folks have dug tanks before and could offer any tips on technique.

The site is in a flat area where the watershed gently drains into from 3 directions. The loader I have lined up is a JD455 with ripper. I wanted to get a loader snce I will be loading and moving most of the top soil, and also moving some of the fill to other areas.

 

[Jogeephus]

I dug one about a year ago and I think the most important thing to do is to have a good plan on what to do with the dirt. It still amazes me how much dirt can come out of a hole in the ground.

I chose to hot load the trucks with the excavator. I first lined up three trucks but ended up using twelve total but on average had nine working each day. This worked out nicely since the excavator was constantly working and once the slinky got to moving, it was a very efficient operation.

In my opinion, it was more important for me to oversee the whole operation rather than being physically involved. I had some very experienced help and with the exception of two truck drivers who would "go missing" at times during the day, I must say the job went smoothly.

 

[Running Arrow Bill]

Obviously, use some of the excavated soil to enhance your "Dam". Also, the extra soil can be "stockpiled" as a reserve when you need some extra soil to fill in holes and other projects...inexpensive insurance in case you need to "buy" some material later and pay high hauling costs.

With a hole that deep...be careful out there...lol. Don't turn the Cat over... ;-)

If the hole is not sealed due to natural soil composition, while you have the Cat, spread some bentonite over the bottom, sides, and use Cat to pack it in. More cheap insurance against leakage/percolation of water downward.

 

[lilmac]

dcara, like Jogeephus said, what about the dirt :?:
If your pond is going to fill from three sides, that just leaves one side for the overburdon and that my friend is a LOT of dirt.
I would think that a dozer with a blade would do you better than a bucket.JMHO By the time you rip, and back up to load, that is twice the fuel than just pushing. That is of cource, unless you are going to load it on a truck. ( or train :lol: )
My D6 will use an 84 gallon tank in about 10 hrs. The tank that I am digging now has taken me 8 hrs. and is 3/4 done, but it is creek fed and all that I am doing is pushing the overburdon up for the dam.
Good luck, and let us know how it comes out,
Mac

 

[icandoit]

Jogeephus wrote:

This worked out nicely since the excavator was constantly working and once the slinky got to moving, it was a very efficient operation

You kill me.I love your posts. ONCE THE SLINLKY GOT TO MOVING, Jeez, this is crazy because I can relate to what you write. Once the slinky, kills me.

Dick

 

[dcara]

Thanks for the input folks.

Mac - Yea I'll be loading some trucks. The rental place said the JD455 burns 1-3gal/hr. Does that sound right to you? I got one with a ripper mainly for some 6-9inch trees ll both at the pond site and other areas I want to clear. PLus I thought I'd do a rip on the same pass as a scoop pass. Then just lift the ripper at the end of the pass and proceed to a dump spot or truck. As far as the drive pattern to achieve the circular shape I was thinking moving the start point about a 1/2 track width CW or CCW each pass.

 

[lilmac]

dcara,
I don't know about the fuel consuption on the JD 455.
Depending on the type of soil you have, how many rippers, and how deep you have to rip, it will not have enough power to dig a bucket, and rip at the same time. However if you have the time it will do the job. Time is money, and sometimes bigger is better. ;-)
Good luck,
Mac