Stihl Chainsaw

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SteppedInIt

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I am looking at picking up a new all around chainsaw, thinking either the MS250 or MS271. One is considered a homeowner and the other a farm and ranch. Other than the added description of high performance for the MS271, anyone know if there is much difference? MS271 is another $40...

I am mostly cutting 10" dia. or less trees, limbing, firewood etc. A bunch of it though.
 
My wife is getting me the dewalt chainsaw for Christmas. I'm sick of my saw not starting. May be junk, but we'll know soon.
 
The 271 has another 1/2 hp (3.0 to 3.49 ).The weight also increases from 10.1 to 12.3 lbs.The engine on the 250 is 45.4 cc and 50.2 on the 271. The 250 will have a 16" or 18" bar and the 271 will have 16,18 or 20" bars to choose from.
If you Google MS 250 vs MS 271,there are results from Arborsite and the Forestry Forum ( I'm a member of both).Also a video to compare them.
To confuse you further,if you can find a good used 026 or 261 you have the best of both weight and performance in a professional grade saw.
I want to highly recommend you buy a set of chaps made for sawing.Seem high priced but you can buy 8 - 10 pair for an ER co-pay :D Also learn to file your chain and keep it sharp.Sharp chains on a small saw beat dull chains on a bigger one.

Let us know what you decide on.Happy Sawing.
 
I'm on Arboristsite as well.. I have a collection of saws (about 10 running or so), While holidaying in the big city I went to a pawn shop and a fellow was there trying to pawn a Stihl 044.. I could tell it had good compression, but the recoil was acting up and it was pretty grimy.. pawn shop didn't want it so he looked at me and asked if I wanted it.. make an offer.. I got it for $45. Got it home and gave it a few more pulls and it fired up despite the really stale fuel.. cleaned it up, inspected the piston (pristine condition), and it's been ported.. snappy little saw, 72cc I think? Used it yesterday (0F outside) and it ran fine to clear a fallen tree. I'm into the saw for $100 (new chain, recoil rope, etc) and I could still triple my money on it.

I would choose a pro-grade saw every time over a homeowner equivalent.. might pay a little more for them now but they'll be worth more (at least *something*) down the road
 
If you go orange, you get more saw for the money. The Husqvarna 545 is built like a pro saw, mag cases, adjustable oiler, Autotune, etc, for only a little more money. The Jonsered 2252 is the same saw, just red and black. I've had mine for two years without an issue. Cut probably 10 cord with it.

The 250 and 271 are both plastic clamshell saws. Reliable, but heavy and underpowered. If you're sold on Stihl, the 271 is a newer model, and well worth the extra money.

Echo makes a fine saw too, if you have a dealer nearby.
 
JW IN VA":3lfbkvml said:
To confuse you further,if you can find a good used 026 or 261 you have the best of both weight and performance in a professional grade saw.
.
X2 if you are going to be sawing much. My 260 is my go to saw for most of my saw work. Light, but plenty enough power to make a 16 inch bar sing even when fully buried in a log.
 
I like my MS362 especially in larger diameter cuts but my 026 is my saw to grab and use.It pulls a 20" bar very well but I don't use it for the bigger trees.A 16" would pull better but I like not having to lean over so far.
 
JW IN VA":1g9dhtjo said:
The 271 has another 1/2 hp (3.0 to 3.49 ).The weight also increases from 10.1 to 12.3 lbs.The engine on the 250 is 45.4 cc and 50.2 on the 271. The 250 will have a 16" or 18" bar and the 271 will have 16,18 or 20" bars to choose from.
If you Google MS 250 vs MS 271,there are results from Arborsite and the Forestry Forum ( I'm a member of both).Also a video to compare them.
To confuse you further,if you can find a good used 026 or 261 you have the best of both weight and performance in a professional grade saw.
I want to highly recommend you buy a set of chaps made for sawing.Seem high priced but you can buy 8 - 10 pair for an ER co-pay :D Also learn to file your chain and keep it sharp.Sharp chains on a small saw beat dull chains on a bigger one.

Let us know what you decide on.Happy Sawing.
I'll second the chaps and other saftey equipment. Also besides learning how to properly sharpen your chains, learn how to fix minor problems with the bar. The 2 that come to mind are the bur edge on the chain channel and keeping the channel at the correct width for the chain. Minor stuff but both are simple and will keep the saw running better longer. When sharpening, learn the relationship between the drag link and the tooth so that the chain will cut straight.
 
I am not stuck on stihl, but we have several stihl service dealers in the area. I just need a saw worth the $$$ that I can be productive with. The work I am doing may be on the lighter side, it will just be several years of it. I'm tired of fighting junk and time is valuable. Thanks for the info. I may shop around a little longer.
 
All new chainsaws are junk. The carburetor has limiters on it the muffler is plugged up and they are set to lean and will not last very long. Try to find a used older one that is in good shape specifically a Pro designed saw. The crab case homeowners and farm and ranch saws are pretty sorry. I am currently working on a Stihl MS660 and should complete it today as I got it with a bad crank bearing and I have that fixed now. Get a Stihl 024, 026, MS 240, Ms 260, 036 ms360 in good used condition and you will have one of the best saw ever made.
 
I know none of these models were recommended but I thought I would throw it out anyway.
Local classified:
044 Stihl has OEM cylinder replacement and after market piston and ring. Runs great. $500 firm
MS-311 STIHL Chainsaw 20"Bar, decompression valve, wrench, like new, few hours. $400.00 firm
Stil 361 magnum with 20" bar. Gently used with case. Asking $300
 
I think the price is a little high on that 044 unless it is in *very* nice condition
the 311 sounds about fair
the 361 would probably be my pick of that set.. yes, a little bigger, but it's not a beast, and should have good power.. price is good too.. Perhaps get it for a little less.. trade off your old saw?
 
SteppedInIt":3m479dei said:
I know none of these models were recommended but I thought I would throw it out anyway.
Local classified:
044 Stihl has OEM cylinder replacement and after market piston and ring. Runs great. $500 firm
MS-311 STIHL Chainsaw 20"Bar, decompression valve, wrench, like new, few hours. $400.00 firm
Stil 361 magnum with 20" bar. Gently used with case. Asking $300

361 is the best of that bunch. Price is very fair if in good shape. Perfect for a one saw operation.

I'm sure you'll find an 044 to be way overkill and heavy for your use.
 
Atimm693":1wqnb3qy said:
SteppedInIt":1wqnb3qy said:
I know none of these models were recommended but I thought I would throw it out anyway.
Local classified:
044 Stihl has OEM cylinder replacement and after market piston and ring. Runs great. $500 firm
MS-311 STIHL Chainsaw 20"Bar, decompression valve, wrench, like new, few hours. $400.00 firm
Stil 361 magnum with 20" bar. Gently used with case. Asking $300

361 is the best of that bunch. Price is very fair if in good shape. Perfect for a one saw operation.

I'm sure you'll find an 044 to be way overkill and heavy for your use.
A lot of those 044s didn't have decompression valves on them to assist in starting and they will bout take your arm off trying to start, especially if the compression is up there. The 361 is a good saw, but they suck with the carburetor that came on them. I replaced my neighbors carburetor on his MS361 with a fully adjustable one and it ran right after that.
 
jltrent":113kwhpf said:
Atimm693":113kwhpf said:
SteppedInIt":113kwhpf said:
I know none of these models were recommended but I thought I would throw it out anyway.
Local classified:
044 Stihl has OEM cylinder replacement and after market piston and ring. Runs great. $500 firm
MS-311 STIHL Chainsaw 20"Bar, decompression valve, wrench, like new, few hours. $400.00 firm
Stil 361 magnum with 20" bar. Gently used with case. Asking $300

361 is the best of that bunch. Price is very fair if in good shape. Perfect for a one saw operation.

I'm sure you'll find an 044 to be way overkill and heavy for your use.
A lot of those 044s didn't have decompression valves on them to assist in starting and they will bout take your arm off trying to start, especially if the compression is up there. The 361 is a good saw, but they suck with the carburetor that came on them. I replaced my neighbors carburetor on his MS361 with a fully adjustable one and it ran right after that.

Yeah, I have an early 066 with no decomp and OEM top end. Better bring your A-game, or that saw will make you feel it.

The limiter caps are pretty easily trimmed.
 
I have a husky 394, a few 2100's, Husky 277,, L65, Stihl 028, 336, 044, 064.. Few of them have decomp.. you just have to pull on them like you mean it and everything works fine.. half arsed pulls will not work.

I don't mind running the bigger saws.. I have a wee little Husky 35 I use for small jobs, but anything bigger I have no issues with going to an 044 or 272 sized saw... You get into the bigger wood and I'm far happier with the 394 that cuts through it like butter and dealing with the extra weight than having the job take twice as long with a light saw
 
SteppedInIt":lnhbrfut said:
I know none of these models were recommended but I thought I would throw it out anyway.
Local classified:
044 Stihl has OEM cylinder replacement and after market piston and ring. Runs great. $500 firm
MS-311 STIHL Chainsaw 20"Bar, decompression valve, wrench, like new, few hours. $400.00 firm
Stil 361 magnum with 20" bar. Gently used with case. Asking $300

Good price on the 361, I have a 362 and it's a heckuva saw but has some weight if you're using it all day. Also have a 250 like you were asking about and it's my favorite all-around saw.
 
I made my living for over 20 years burning 2 + gallons as a day in a in saw. At one time or another I have fell a tree with about every brand of saw made. I wouldn't buy any thing but a Stihl. I would also advise you to buy the biggest saw you can afford. Even a small commercial grade saw will out last those smaller saws by a significant margin. Learn how to sharpen it and also learn how to keep the chain out of the dirt. A sharp chain makes all the difference in the world.
 

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