Stihl chainsaw problem

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M.Magis

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I think I probably asked this before, but I'm going to check for ideas on this saw one more time before I throw the piece of shyt in the trash. Its an MS250. The issue is, after cutting a hole in ice about 5 years ago, something happened with the compression that you can barely pull the string rope. It'll snap the rope or break the pawls on the first pull if you're not careful. I've tried lots of different things over the years, even took it to a dealer. They just said compression was a bit high and suggested trying one of the Elasto Start ropes. That did help enough that I've been able to use the saw the last few years, but I still had to go easy when starting it. Now the Elasto rope broke I'm not going to keep buying $30 ropes to start this saw. Any thoughts on what could have possibly caused this? It was just a normal saw until I cut that hole in the ice, now it'll rip the handle right out of your hand. Thanks
 
M.Magis said:
I think I probably asked this before, but I'm going to check for ideas on this saw one more time before I throw the piece of shyt in the trash. Its an MS250. The issue is, after cutting a hole in ice about 5 years ago, something happened with the compression that you can barely pull the string rope. It'll snap the rope or break the pawls on the first pull if you're not careful. I've tried lots of different things over the years, even took it to a dealer. They just said compression was a bit high and suggested trying one of the Elasto Start ropes. That did help enough that I've been able to use the saw the last few years, but I still had to go easy when starting it. Now the Elasto rope broke I'm not going to keep buying $30 ropes to start this saw. Any thoughts on what could have possibly caused this? It was just a normal saw until I cut that hole in the ice, now it'll rip the handle right out of your hand. Thanks
Click to expand...

You have been here long enough that you know to ask all questions about saws to JLTrent. Especially Sthil questions. He should probably be designing and engineering for them!
 
M.Magis said:
I think I probably asked this before, but I'm going to check for ideas on this saw one more time before I throw the piece of shyt in the trash. Its an MS250. The issue is, after cutting a hole in ice about 5 years ago, something happened with the compression that you can barely pull the string rope. It'll snap the rope or break the pawls on the first pull if you're not careful. I've tried lots of different things over the years, even took it to a dealer. They just said compression was a bit high and suggested trying one of the Elasto Start ropes. That did help enough that I've been able to use the saw the last few years, but I still had to go easy when starting it. Now the Elasto rope broke I'm not going to keep buying $30 ropes to start this saw. Any thoughts on what could have possibly caused this? It was just a normal saw until I cut that hole in the ice, now it'll rip the handle right out of your hand. Thanks
Click to expand...
Those saws have good compression, but it should not be ripping the recoil out of your hand or breaking a new rope. It sounds like a timing issue to me. If it was normal before the ice cutting which should have not caused a problem then something happened if everything is OEM and same as came from the factory. The flywheel key is bad to strip on those as it is made on the flywheel. The flywheel may have moved on the shaft just a little and it will pre-fire when the recoil is pulled and about remove a hand. You can check compression and the highest I have seen on those is around 170 lbs. and anything above 150 lbs. is a good saw. I had an 064 I matched a flywheel up that was for a limited coil with a unlimited coil. When you got the recoil rope about half out on the first pull it would fire and about separate a shoulder.

You can put a handle on like this and the next size up rope and it want break a rope as it should not anyway.

Chainsaw "D" starter handle

A0or4p6.jpg
 
Thanks. I pulled the flywheel nut and its tough to say, but it sort of looked like the key was "distorted" a slight amount. Very slight, but its all I have to go on for now. A flywheel is cheap enough to try a new one. I went ahead and put to OEM handle back on, and its even worse than I remembered without the Elasto start handle. I can get it started, but its almost unusable. Thanks again for the help.
 
I was going to say flywheel too. Probably slipped just enough to advance the timing a few degrees and not wipe the key off altogether.

If you get the flywheel off, you can likely lay it over the top of a new one and see if the keys line up.

Make sure you torque the nut good and make sure the flywheel and crank are clean. The taper is what actually holds them together, the key is just for assembly.
 
One of those back in the day stories. I was falling timber on Afognak Island in Alaska February 1979. I was using a 125 Mac. It was -10 F one morning. That saw kicked back and jerked the starter rope out of my hand about 40 times and refused to start. Not fun on a -10 morning. Now a 125 Mac is a large box of rocks with a saw bar connected. I got so mad and frustrated that I threw the saw down and kicked it. Not a good idea to kick a box of rocks on a -10 degree morning either. 20 years falling timber. I hate a saw that wont start or kicks back.
 
A couple other things comes to mind that I have seen that would cause the condition you mentioned, but not common. I have seen carbon build up on top of the piston and top of inner cylinder and lower the squish to the point that compression goes up. Also a poor port job were to much was taken off the ceiling wall of the intake and exhaust ports will cause a timing issue and all it takes is a little. The 250 is a clam shell design so removing the head gasket can not be done to boost compression and lower squish.
 
Thought I would add some chainsaw pictures as here is one I just completed and ready to go as I have at least 20 71cc up to 122cc saws when I have a chance to work on to complete....


Here is a very low hours little MS460 Timbersport XX Anniversary saw . This is the Non EPA saw

sN5YIzW.jpg


2b04TAW.jpg
 
Just thought I'd update this. Went ahead and replaced the flywheel, unfortunately it didn't help. It still wants to rip the handle out of my hand as soon as I start to pull. I suppose I'll keep messing with it as time allows, but guess I'm going to have to buy another saw that I can rely on working. Really needed a bigger saw anyways.
 

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