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<blockquote data-quote="John SD" data-source="post: 913457" data-attributes="member: 14713"><p>I really don't have much to add to what everyone here has posted. I agree that for someone starting out, just raising steers or getting a couple older bred cows would probably be better than jumping into calving heifers until you get some experience under your belt. Cattle are herd animals and I believe a single animal would not be content all alone.</p><p></p><p>While it is true at the sale barn the breeding stock for sale can be someone else's culls, sometimes a person can get top notch animals when someone disperses a herd. Most times the sale barn will allow a "gate cut" to the high bidder of a couple cows off the draft in the ring.</p><p></p><p> There are other times a cow is seperated off the rest just because she is off-colored or has frozen ears and a bob tail. She may be a good cow otherwise and her defects are merely cosmetic. The thing you have to watch for on bob ear/tail cows is if her feet have been damaged. Any cow you buy should be physically and mentally sound. Good feet, good udder with small teats, etc. </p><p></p><p> There are some good old cows *8+ yrs and older that will be culled and sold from larger herds because of their age. Older cows simply can't compete with the younger cows. These are called broken mouth cows (missing teeth) These cows might have a few years left in them if they are sound otherwise but probably need a little extra TLC in the winter which a small operation like yours could provide.</p><p></p><p> A wild, mean, or crazy cow in the ring usually indicates she has that type of personality. This type of cow needs to go to the slaughter plant regardless of age and soundness and is not really appropriate for anyone, especially a beginner.</p><p></p><p> When you buy your calf or cow, I would recommend you consult your local veterinarian about the proper immunizations and timing of the shots needed for your animal(s). </p><p></p><p> You should keep salt available to your cattle at all times, either block or loose salt would be fine. For a couple head, I would probably go with block. At minimum I keep trace mineral salt in front of my cattle at all times. Around $6-$7 each. Sometimes I use a hi-trace mineral salt with EDDI which has a higher level of iodine in it. What is needed in your area may vary. Feeding mineral is a good policy to insure your cattle get enough calcium, phosphorus, and trace minerals along with vitamin A, D, and E. </p><p></p><p> On the topic of vaccines to discuss with your local vet: Modified Live Virus (MLV) vaccines are usually cheaper and more effective than killed virus vaccines. Some MLV vaccines can be used on pregnant cows or on calves nursing pregnant cows IF the cows have been vaccinated annually. If there is any doubt about this, use killed vaccines or the pregnant cow can abort the fetal calf she is carrying.</p><p></p><p>Good luck and if you have more questions feel free to ask.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="John SD, post: 913457, member: 14713"] I really don't have much to add to what everyone here has posted. I agree that for someone starting out, just raising steers or getting a couple older bred cows would probably be better than jumping into calving heifers until you get some experience under your belt. Cattle are herd animals and I believe a single animal would not be content all alone. While it is true at the sale barn the breeding stock for sale can be someone else's culls, sometimes a person can get top notch animals when someone disperses a herd. Most times the sale barn will allow a "gate cut" to the high bidder of a couple cows off the draft in the ring. There are other times a cow is seperated off the rest just because she is off-colored or has frozen ears and a bob tail. She may be a good cow otherwise and her defects are merely cosmetic. The thing you have to watch for on bob ear/tail cows is if her feet have been damaged. Any cow you buy should be physically and mentally sound. Good feet, good udder with small teats, etc. There are some good old cows *8+ yrs and older that will be culled and sold from larger herds because of their age. Older cows simply can't compete with the younger cows. These are called broken mouth cows (missing teeth) These cows might have a few years left in them if they are sound otherwise but probably need a little extra TLC in the winter which a small operation like yours could provide. A wild, mean, or crazy cow in the ring usually indicates she has that type of personality. This type of cow needs to go to the slaughter plant regardless of age and soundness and is not really appropriate for anyone, especially a beginner. When you buy your calf or cow, I would recommend you consult your local veterinarian about the proper immunizations and timing of the shots needed for your animal(s). You should keep salt available to your cattle at all times, either block or loose salt would be fine. For a couple head, I would probably go with block. At minimum I keep trace mineral salt in front of my cattle at all times. Around $6-$7 each. Sometimes I use a hi-trace mineral salt with EDDI which has a higher level of iodine in it. What is needed in your area may vary. Feeding mineral is a good policy to insure your cattle get enough calcium, phosphorus, and trace minerals along with vitamin A, D, and E. On the topic of vaccines to discuss with your local vet: Modified Live Virus (MLV) vaccines are usually cheaper and more effective than killed virus vaccines. Some MLV vaccines can be used on pregnant cows or on calves nursing pregnant cows IF the cows have been vaccinated annually. If there is any doubt about this, use killed vaccines or the pregnant cow can abort the fetal calf she is carrying. Good luck and if you have more questions feel free to ask. [/QUOTE]
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