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Soil ph and Pasture Weeds
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<blockquote data-quote="JWBrahman" data-source="post: 1123061" data-attributes="member: 18439"><p>Thanks for the advice Brandon. Not sure how you think you are a bearer of bad or good news, this is just a coffee shop type discussion. If you wish to get technical I can bore the pants off of you with plant and soil system jargon. Heck, I even have a certificate/license from the state of Louisiana to do a soil test, diagnose plant pathogens, and all that stuffed in a drawer somewhere. Dang test cost a fortune and took three hours with a calculator, but that is another story. Haven't done a soil test in about 14 years, the first one concluded what I pretty much had figured out with a visual inspection. That is when I put down 250 pounds of agricultural lime per acre and let the place go fallow. Then I planted deep rooted sunflowers, bushhogged, burned, sprayed, ran hair sheep for a year, and got the ph squared away. </p><p></p><p>Even with over a decade of renovation we still have drainage and ph problems in the low spots with the clay you can use for ceramics. I am still in the process of getting my drainage squared away, that is why I do have small stands of buttercups. Running a small tractor with a lawn spreader and pelletized lime in that kind of geography is the best way to avoid to soil compaction and even more weeds. It takes a lot less lime than you think to unlock nitrogen if you are doing it in combination with good grazing practices (take half leave half), periodic burnings, multi-species grazing, and a host of other things that the good people at UK and KSU have already done and made VHS documentaries of their research.</p><p></p><p>Thanks for adding to the discussion.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="JWBrahman, post: 1123061, member: 18439"] Thanks for the advice Brandon. Not sure how you think you are a bearer of bad or good news, this is just a coffee shop type discussion. If you wish to get technical I can bore the pants off of you with plant and soil system jargon. Heck, I even have a certificate/license from the state of Louisiana to do a soil test, diagnose plant pathogens, and all that stuffed in a drawer somewhere. Dang test cost a fortune and took three hours with a calculator, but that is another story. Haven't done a soil test in about 14 years, the first one concluded what I pretty much had figured out with a visual inspection. That is when I put down 250 pounds of agricultural lime per acre and let the place go fallow. Then I planted deep rooted sunflowers, bushhogged, burned, sprayed, ran hair sheep for a year, and got the ph squared away. Even with over a decade of renovation we still have drainage and ph problems in the low spots with the clay you can use for ceramics. I am still in the process of getting my drainage squared away, that is why I do have small stands of buttercups. Running a small tractor with a lawn spreader and pelletized lime in that kind of geography is the best way to avoid to soil compaction and even more weeds. It takes a lot less lime than you think to unlock nitrogen if you are doing it in combination with good grazing practices (take half leave half), periodic burnings, multi-species grazing, and a host of other things that the good people at UK and KSU have already done and made VHS documentaries of their research. Thanks for adding to the discussion. [/QUOTE]
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