Selection of Cattle

Feet and legs, topline, over all size, slope from hook to pins, disposition, pleasing to my eye
 
What I look for in a cow, is a good foot and a good udder, topline and disposition. And for me the perfect size is a range from 1100lbs to 1350lbs.
 
cowboy43":1rn2cn87 said:
Utter and teats, have to do some fast lookin at the auction sale.

And feet and legs, condition, sex of calf if its a pair, and then formulate a value in the head. And then and only then bid. As cowboy43 said you have to do some fast looking (and thinking) at the auction.

Most of my additions are short term. So the main consideration is will she make me money when sold in the fall.
 
I want them similar enough to the bulk of my herd that the calves will sell in bulk with the rest of my calves. I want her to be bred at the right time of year for my environment. I want her to have a solid mouth and good enough conformation that she can walk up and down the hill and raise a calf doing it. If she's a short bred cow I want to see that she has some milk so that I know she did her job this last year and isn't a holdover that showed up open. I prefer a decent disposition but I don't want a pet.
 
dt34715":vd2mehta said:
Any examples of what you are talking about when you say:

good foot and a good udder, topline

I'll try to respond to your question. There are pictorial examples all over the net.

I like a little ear too. Brahman influence does well in my climate.

A moderate size udder is enough milk to raise a heavy calf. Not too large such that she has problems in later years. Uniform and no appearance of mastitis in her history. No bottled teats etc. Simply put you want a large uniform udder with teats suitable for her calf to nurse.

The cow needs good mothering instincts to care for the calf. Some of mine go a bit overboard with protection and it could get me hurt if I let down my guard.

Top line is a flat back to her hips. No sway or roach back look to it. Flat and straight. Smooth when she strides and she carries herself well.

Sound feet and alignment. No cow hock and no post leg. Again, there are links you can look at on the net. If she pulls up lame or worse down, it is a lot of work and she gets to go for a ride a bit too early in her life. Best to get one like Dun describes off the bat.

The first thing to go on a good cow is her teeth, if she is a good cow. Keep her feed and hay out of the dirt and you'll have less grit on those teeth. If she has sound feet and structure, she can work in your pasture up until the time her teeth won't let her do her job. If she can deliver 16 or more heavy weaning calves, she is a money maker. Some get more. If her feet are good, her udder has the right conformation and her structure is good, she can go the distance. Start making excuses for her and you can figure to send her out for hamburger at middle age.

I have a routine and rotate pastures. When I call the herd it is time to move and most of them come running. New cows are usually skeptical and it take some time to get in the routine. If I can keep the cows for years and years, they are less trouble and they run to the new pastures. They know my routines and so forth. I don't like trading off cows that are well adapted because they cannot last. Bad udders, bad disposition, bad structure are what keeps a cow from lasting.
 
Brute 23":1ky9mzl2 said:
Funny no one mentioned the enviroment they were raised in or history of the owner, herd, or animal.


Or dare I say epds. Just waiting on a multiple trait and genomic lecture from the resident Doc!!
 
Udder, teat size, flesh, feet, eyes. Buying at the sales barn is not the opportunity to be a very discriminating buyer, so you have to keep your list brief and easy to check off when the cow is in the ring for 30 seconds or less.

More or less, your buying on the idea that the cow has a hope in h3ll of surviving long enough for you to make a profit.

If your buying to make the foundation of a cowherd, good luck with that notion.
 

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