Seeders
- Thread starter novatech
- Start date
novatech
Well-known member
No question. Just a lot of good info. and links that I thought others may want to see.dun":1kb8rymh said:
Jogeephus
Well-known member
dun":14zie6ty said:
I think he is rubbing some alcohol on my wound by trying to wet my appetite on a new drill. :lol2:
Jogeephus":ioza7ggp said:
Something to remember is that if you ever think you'll be drilling Brome or any of the WSG you will need a WSG agitator on your zippy new drill. Also a small seed box for clover, alfalfa and millet. Also needs to have a pretty good adjustment range to drill soybean/corn. Hay beans aren't a problem.
1982vett
Well-known member
Jogeephus":25waic0r said:
Naww. If we wanted to do that, we would post something like this.
Check out the avitar also. :lol2:
Which one you looking at so I can be more accurate.
![Pampers Sensitive Baby Wipes, Clinically Proven, Fragrance Free, Unscented, Water Based, Hypoallergenic, Multi-Use, Hand Wipes 336 Wipes Total (6X Flip-Top Packs) [Packaging May Vary]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41KLBHu9CAL._SL500_.jpg)
Jogeephus
Well-known member
I forgot the number on purpose. I'm trying to forget I ever saw it but I have to drive by it at least twice a day. It doesn't have three wheels only two big ones and its loaded. Its got the agitator - a black one so I kow it will be a good one - and its got the small seed box. Based on the manual it can plant anything I've ever considered planting as well as many things I haven't ever seen other than on the board. I haven't coveted anything so much in my life except maybe once when I got leave in Charleston SC after an extended period away. 
Dun, though its zippy and would be the cat's meow, I have taken to overhauling my drill. Maybe even a paint job. The cost of getting it back to Noah new is looking real cheap at the moment. :nod:
Dun, though its zippy and would be the cat's meow, I have taken to overhauling my drill. Maybe even a paint job. The cost of getting it back to Noah new is looking real cheap at the moment. :nod:
apical meristem
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2008
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- 39
dun":1rl52v0r said:
What kind of small grains drill do you have/ know about that can plant corn? You would have to cover the seed intake to get 15 or 30" row spacing. I have a JD 1590 no-till and it will do everything you mentioned and UNR cotton, except for corn.
MrBilly
Well-known member
I was recently disappointed to learn that The Tye Company was bought out by AGCO and the latter is no longer making the Tye stubble drill any longer. Lukily, the few disposable little things I needed are still available. That seeder is one great machine and works well at 23 years young.
Billy
Billy
apical meristem
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2008
- Messages
- 39
dun":6x0svqun said:
Are you saying it works for grazing corn? But can it not get the seeds out at a density high enough to make running a combine over it worthwhile? Still want to know what kind of drill you have. Does it have settings for corn?
I am worried it would clog/jam up the meter.
The spacing on between rows on my drills is too narrow to plant corn to harvest. It will plant it dense enoguh just the rows too close together. They dont; have settings for corn but it can be done. Not optimum, but it's functional. JohnDeere/VanBrunt model A and a Haybuster 107. I've only planted corn for foodplots, not to harvest.apical meristem":368rmbpe said:
There is a drill called the Plant-O-Vator that I would love to try, but can't justify it from a cost standpoint. It's more of a minimal till than no-till. Prepares a seedbed 2 inches wide by 5 inches deep. I think it would be great for planting ryegrass in bermuda or bahia sod. We haven't ever been able to get satisfactory results with no-till in these pastures. Still run the disc over it 2 or 3 times prior to planting.
BeefmasterB
Well-known member
novatech":3opi10u8 said:
I still like the Brillion seeder just due to it's track record. It would be hard to justify it's cost though, with just 20 or so acres to seed.
Jogeephus":1iyhwa4e said:I forgot the number on purpose. I'm trying to forget I ever saw it but I have to drive by it at least twice a day. It doesn't have three wheels only two big ones and its loaded. Its got the agitator - a black one so I kow it will be a good one - and its got the small seed box. Based on the manual it can plant anything I've ever considered planting as well as many things I haven't ever seen other than on the board. I haven't coveted anything so much in my life except maybe once when I got leave in Charleston SC after an extended period away.
Dun, though its zippy and would be the cat's meow, I have taken to overhauling my drill. Maybe even a paint job. The cost of getting it back to Noah new is looking real cheap at the moment. :nod:
I have one of those old JDeere drills with the galvanized seed hoppers. The J Deere people say you can't get parts anymore. By the way its frozen up (shafts won't turn) although it still looks good, at least on the outside. To my point- a tractor dealer was at my place the other day and saw the drill with the weeds growing up around it, I told him about it being frozen up and he offered me $100 more than I had given for it 2 yrs ago. He said those drills sell like hotcakes in Georgia. Now myself, I am strill wondering how to get the shafts free. Evidently Georgians have developed a way to renovate these drills,freeing the shafts,etc. You ever heard of such or know anything about these drills popularity in GA? Is there a preferred method for freeing the shafts? Anyone?
A lot of rust buster on any place that metal meets metal. After a couple of days of soaking it with the rust buster, tapping the shafts to free them will break everything loose. The problem is that you end up having to tatally strip it to the bare frame and putting it back together. When I got my old JD/VB it was frozen solid. It took a month or so, but now every part of it works just like it did when it was new. The good part about stripping it and putting it back together is that you really get afeel for the interaction of each and every part.
TSR":1rq26ua6 said:
I soaked mine in the morning and the evening then would tap on a part to see if it was free. Kept it up until the parts started moving. All but the small seed box chapt went fairly fast. I don;t think they had ever done anythign with the small seed box and it was a real pain. If it's no too rusty, take all of the drive chains off except one and jack up the driving wheel. Sometimes you can rock it back and forth and loosen things up. Just work with different drive chains till you get it freed up. Did that with a friend of mines but it was just rusted not rust welded.
