securing the wire when stretching it

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dieselbeef

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when ya git to the part where yer pulling it and the post yer gonna attatch it to....do ya stretch past it...nail it...then wrap it

stretch it around the post and then secure it?

most of the guys ive seen here pound a staple tight at the post and then release the puller and wrap the post

i dont like this way cuz it seems like yer making a spot in the wire to break..but they have good luck with it..some guys wrap around the post and stretch it back on itself kinda and then use a crimper...

how yall do it?? my way is too hard so i need a better way

gary
 
I may do it wrong, but have never had one break on the staple. I stretch the wire to the second post of the H brace or corner, tie the wire to all the line post and the staple the wire to the first post of the brace. I release the wire from the stretcher and stretch the end around the corner or second post with a crowbar or hammer hooked on the wire, and staple it to the post. Works for me.
 
i guess im doin it right then...pretty much how we do it but i always think its gonna break where u put the staple to hold it to loosen the stretcher
 
We don't wrap the post. Stretch it, staple it at the far end, and then work back and staple tight to every post. When we staple to the stakes they usually aren't tight, that way the stakes can move on the wire a bit.
 
ive seen alot of peeps that dont wrap em...go around and back to the wire and then crimp...that was one of the reasons i posted this cuz so many people do it diff ways

im in fl too so i know we dont do it the way they do in the north or the west


wish o could post some pics of some recent stuff. but its to much trouble to git em on here now
 
I guess I missed the crimping part. I don't do that, just double wrap and tie it off. My granddad would come back and kick my butt if I didn't double wrap.
 
dieselbeef":iuptyuf3 said:
ive seen alot of peeps that dont wrap em...go around and back to the wire and then crimp...that was one of the reasons i posted this cuz so many people do it diff ways

im in fl too so i know we dont do it the way they do in the north or the west


wish o could post some pics of some recent stuff. but its to much trouble to git em on here now
in that sand,, how deep do you put your corner posts?? i nail then wrap,,start the wrap under itself instead of over,,, it locks it
 
i put at least 3 ft in each corner. only slightly higher than the line posts. i know alotta guys leave em high but i put the extra into the grnd. 8 ft post..3 ft in...
 
We don't put up much feild fence anymore except on property boundaries. We live in a wet, humid hot, sandy area so we have to put the posts deep (40 inches).

We use an 8-10 inch corner post to build the "H" -- we staple tar paper to the post 40 inches up from the bottom and fill with concrete.

We use a standard size line post for the horizontal part of the "H" and secure it with brace pins by drilling a 3/8's hole thru the vertical posts into the ends of the horizontal post. Drive the brace pins in.

In the old days, we used cross wires to to help strengthen the "H", by twisting a piece of rebar leaving it to rest against the horizontal brace post.

Nowadays, we use an inline strainer (used for tightening electric fence) to tighten our 12.5 ga smooth cross-wires (this works the best, to squeeze the "H")

We pull the wire with a front end loader, on a 100 degree day, as tight as we can get it.

We staple the field fence to both posts with a single 1 3/4" staple on every horizontal wire

We clip all the steel posts

Before we let the tension off the wire, we put (4) 2x8 treated boards 10 inches apart using 3 inch wood screws and finish it off with a 3/8's x 3 inch lag bolt w/washer (2 per board)

When you let the tension off this "H" --the fence does not move;

This will last 30 years

JS
 
I pull past the post, then take some sharp cutting dikes and clip one strand of the woven barbed wire. Take this strand and wrap around the post.....after that cut the remaining wire and wrap around the post.... works like a charm
 
i still do the rebar thing for the twisting part..i like the strainer idea better..ill be doin that from now on. seems like even the 9 ga wires breaks eventually and the h brace gets loose.
i pull the wire real tight on a winter day when the wire is cold and tight so in the summer when it sags a little instead of strainin the wire real bad when it gets cold.
doin it hot makes it get even tighter in the winter..besides..in fl we fence in the winter...not like the grnd freezes and a whole lot better than in the summer at 100 degrees and 95& humidity

good tips..that strainer idea is great..i just started using them on the runs ..if it breaks or i gotta pull it tight i put one in
 
dieselbeef":33dtkr6p said:
i still do the rebar thing for the twisting part..i like the strainer idea better..ill be doin that from now on. seems like even the 9 ga wires breaks eventually and the h brace gets loose.
i pull the wire real tight on a winter day when the wire is cold and tight so in the summer when it sags a little instead of strainin the wire real bad when it gets cold.
doin it hot makes it get even tighter in the winter..besides..in fl we fence in the winter...not like the grnd freezes and a whole lot better than in the summer at 100 degrees and 95& humidity

good tips..that strainer idea is great..i just started using them on the runs ..if it breaks or i gotta pull it tight i put one in

We do the rebar still and we have to put them in the ground at least 4 ft or they will frost out of the ground over time. We also staple and then tie to post. We might do something alittle different thatn you do. We use what we call a dead man brace. We put a T-post with a hole bored in the end and use a bolt and a disc blade to put it against the brace post so it wont move. These corners made with hedge posts will last my lifetime and maybe most of my kids. Still have fence my great grandad built but it does need replaced now.
 
JustSimmental":3n7jyxyj said:
We don't put up much feild fence anymore except on property boundaries. We live in a wet, humid hot, sandy area so we have to put the posts deep (40 inches).

We use an 8-10 inch corner post to build the "H" -- we staple tar paper to the post 40 inches up from the bottom and fill with concrete.

We use a standard size line post for the horizontal part of the "H" and secure it with brace pins by drilling a 3/8's hole thru the vertical posts into the ends of the horizontal post. Drive the brace pins in.

In the old days, we used cross wires to to help strengthen the "H", by twisting a piece of rebar leaving it to rest against the horizontal brace post.

Nowadays, we use an inline strainer (used for tightening electric fence) to tighten our 12.5 ga smooth cross-wires (this works the best, to squeeze the "H")

We pull the wire with a front end loader, on a 100 degree day, as tight as we can get it. Can u post some pic. of how u use the inline strainers.

We staple the field fence to both posts with a single 1 3/4" staple on every horizontal wire

We clip all the steel posts

Before we let the tension off the wire, we put (4) 2x8 treated boards 10 inches apart using 3 inch wood screws and finish it off with a 3/8's x 3 inch lag bolt w/washer (2 per board)

When you let the tension off this "H" --the fence does not move;

This will last 30 years

JS
 
Can u post a pic. of how the inline strainers work, it sounds like a good ideal, i always just twisted the wire with what ever i could find
 
mikegahr":30z2d81q said:
Can u post a pic. of how the inline strainers work, it sounds like a good ideal, i always just twisted the wire with what ever i could find
Go to kencove.com and search for daisy wheel, although there are other types that what we use. Or maybe just search there for tightener
 
upfrombottom":25k5lo96 said:
I may do it wrong, but have never had one break on the staple. I stretch the wire to the second post of the H brace or corner, tie the wire to all the line post and the staple the wire to the first post of the brace. I release the wire from the stretcher and stretch the end around the corner or second post with a crowbar or hammer hooked on the wire, and staple it to the post. Works for me.

Same here. The load needs to be on the first post as it is anchored to the bottom of the second one. Done the other way may tend to pull the anchor post on a corner or angle. Really doesn't matter on the single H braces on the line post but still a good practice on double H's on the line. We usually go 200' to 250' between single H's with posts every 50' and T post between them. Double H's are used when angles come into play.
 

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