Scope mounting question

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SmokinM

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I have a rifle I would like to be able to swap scopes on without rezeroing every time. Anybody got a good set up for this. Can you just put a rail on and a good set of mounts on each scope then just make sure it goes on same groove each time? How reliable is your zero? Thanks
 
Different applications need different optics and I want to be able to multitask.
 
They have scope mounts that are made to be removed. A lot of the NV thermal guys use them so they can glass with the optics with out holding the gun, then put it back on the gun, and shoot.

My buddy had one and we didnt have any trouble with it. Would I trust it to take 600 yd shots... probably not. We had no trouble with taking it on and off and shooting hogs at less than 200 yds.

You will probably need a picatinny rail set up on the rifle to get started and build from there.

Remember cheap is just that... cheap. This will not be an item you want to buy on the cheap from Amazon. If your a $100 scope guy... the mount will cost more than the scope.

 
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About 1 moa is a good dependable result. You will need a pic rail and accompanying rings or mounts on the scope. Depending on the gun the rail will run around $100 and a set of rings another $150-300 per scope. Now that you have the hardware it will need to be mounted correctly. Either take it to a competent smith that has experience with precision rifles or do your research and diy. The mounting is more important than the hardware. If it's not mounted correctly the best hardware will fail. I'll stress again this is not a normal make sure everything is tight and aligned this is precision optic mounting. I have precision guns that I swap optics around on and I never have to adjust my zero by more than 1/2-3/4" at 100 yards
 
It would help to know more specifics like gun, optics, range and expected accuracy
 
Not sure why I would do this. Maybe to change from optical to thermal scope? There are scope rings and mounts that are quick release and claimed to hold zero after removal and re-install. I think Larue makes a set. You'll need to start with a picatinny rail. And as stated, don't go cheap on the rings. Even though you might not need to re-zero, I would still confirm zero after each re-mounting.

Some of that was info and some opinion. Meant to help, but throw out what you don't need.
 
Thanks for the replies. MOA is more than plenty accurate. Looking at doing it on a .243 to switch from regular optics to NV.
 
Just mount a pic rail on the gun and get a good set of rings. If optic is decent and everything is mounted correctly you should be good to go. You don't even have to get the quick attach rings, just torque the screws to the same in/lb every time. Biggest mistake people make is overnighting everything. They think if it's tighter it will hold better, not true it's the way in which it's mounted is the key. Most rings and bases are torqued to 25-45 in/lb, just follow the instructions for your mounts.
 
Thanks for the replies. MOA is more than plenty accurate. Looking at doing it on a .243 to switch from regular optics to NV.
Buy another 243 IMO.
Once I get a rifle set up I don't like messing with what I know works.
I love the caliber and I don't believe in owning only one of any caliber. Exception to the rule is 7-08 really don't like the round.
 
Buy another 243 IMO.
Once I get a rifle set up I don't like messing with what I know works.
I love the caliber and I don't believe in owning only one of any caliber. Exception to the rule is 7-08 really don't like the round.
I agree it is a good excuse to buy another gun. Everyone could always use another gun.
 
I have been looking hard for one of the Browning 81 takedown lever actions in .243 or .308. They are hard to find but slick guns.

I could buy another or may already have more than one here. Just checking out options. I know how I want to set one up and it will be not something I can have a couple of them sitting around.
 
These are hard rifles to beat for the price in stainless.
I have several, very accurate.
 

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I have a Browning BLR .308 that I purchased in 1966 when I was 13 years old. Cost $160. Went to the store intending to buy a Winchester 94 30-30 for $100. But decided to upgrade to the BLR. I think it has had less than 100 rounds through it. $160 was a lot of money for a 13 year old then.
 
I have a Browning BLR .308 that I purchased in 1966 when I was 13 years old. Cost $160. Went to the store intending to buy a Winchester 94 30-30 for $100. But decided to upgrade to the BLR. I think it has had less than 100 rounds through it. $160 was a lot of money for a 13 year old then.
30-30 was the mainstay rifle in my part of the world. Still one of my favorite cartridges.
It was time a lot of the Vets were starting to sporterize the 03, the British Enfields and German Mauser.
 
I have a Browning BLR .308 that I purchased in 1966 when I was 13 years old. Cost $160. Went to the store intending to buy a Winchester 94 30-30 for $100. But decided to upgrade to the BLR. I think it has had less than 100 rounds through it. $160 was a lot of money for a 13 year old then.
Wanna double your money? LOL. Heck I will even triple it!

I used to think some of these wildcat cartridges would be great but in truth it is hard to beat the old standbys. Same for having one in every caliber, now I like to have several in the same caliber. I am currently trying to put together sets of revolver/ lever gun combinations. Would love to do my favorite .480 Ruger but the lever gun part is near impossible to find and very pricey.
 
I have a Browning BLR in 243. It was the starter rifle for the kids. I could look and see if it was on safety or full cock (I had one son who was a hazard). I like the clip as opposed to a 30-30 where every round gets jacked through the chamber unloading. Four kids shot their first deer with that gun. This year a granddaughter shot her first deer with it.
 

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