saltbranch
Well-known member
I am in the market for a post driver and the Shaver hd10 has my attention. Have you used one? Did you like it? Mine would be 3 point mounted and manual tilt etc. How hard is it to set post on existing fence line?
Post Driver question
- Thread starter saltbranch
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turklilley
Well-known member
That's the post driver that I have. It is not hard to place posts on existing fence lines. Just line up bottom of post, and start pounding.
Use your adjustments to keep it plumb.
Use your adjustments to keep it plumb.
saltbranch
Well-known member
THx Turklilley I appreciate the info...I have pestered the hell out callmefence over last few weeks with questions on different models. Hats off to him for taking time to help advise, always up for helping me. Thank you Sir
RoppFamilyFarm
Well-known member
Have the same thing. Driven many a wood post with it. Works Great! On ours, we learned that after you get the post started in the ground we have to angle the top of the pounder back a little bit to keep the post from driving crooked, but thats no big deal. Way easier then using a post hole auger, putting in the post and tamping dirt back into the hole. One warning.... Once your neighbors see you using it, they will all want to borrow it 
RoppFamilyFarm":289qg2yh said:Have the same thing. Driven many a wood post with it. Works Great! On ours, we learned that after you get the post started in the ground we have to angle the top of the pounder back a little bit to keep the post from driving crooked, but thats no big deal. Way easier then using a post hole auger, putting in the post and tamping dirt back into the hole. One warning.... Once your neighbors see you using it, they will all want to borrow it
I had an HD10 once, and had the same problem. Found that if you take a cable come-along and take all the slop out of your top link and 3pt linkage, that it's not quite as bad. That thing was pretty aggravating trying to get posts straight, ended up getting rid of it when I had a chance to buy a Wheathart at a good price. Now that's a post driver.
Video of the HD 10 in action. I've always wanted one. Should have bought one 25 years ago, it would have paid for itself by now.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Kt2Jq8wauV0
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Kt2Jq8wauV0
A
Anonymous
have an old hd8 was wore out when i bought it no it dont drive the straightest post but it worked for the price and can get all the parts to repair it easly. getting read to put a new tree in it .i belive thats what they called it ,had mine spread out on shop floor a few time not whole lot to them .really easy to work on! and yea its well pd for its self was told could sell it for more than i gave for it, not trying to rub it in Bigfoot
NECowboy
Well-known member
How much does this cost? Any thoughts on gas powered post drivers? I saw the following video on a Rhino GPD-40 but it was only being used on a 2.5 inch post and I use 4 inch or 4.5 inch posts for permanent fencing. Doubt there's a gas powered post driver out there that can handle that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r09oQFnFMeg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r09oQFnFMeg
RoppFamilyFarm
Well-known member
cfpinz":10ugjje3 said:RoppFamilyFarm":10ugjje3 said:Have the same thing. Driven many a wood post with it. Works Great! On ours, we learned that after you get the post started in the ground we have to angle the top of the pounder back a little bit to keep the post from driving crooked, but thats no big deal. Way easier then using a post hole auger, putting in the post and tamping dirt back into the hole. One warning.... Once your neighbors see you using it, they will all want to borrow it
I had an HD10 once, and had the same problem. Found that if you take a cable come-along and take all the slop out of your top link and 3pt linkage, that it's not quite as bad. That thing was pretty aggravating trying to get posts straight, ended up getting rid of it when I had a chance to buy a Wheathart at a good price. Now that's a post driver.
Thanks for the suggestion cfpinz!
A
Anonymous
mine is pd for it leans up aginst shed untill i need it ! it aint much but beats digging an tamp !thats for younger guys !
saltbranch
Well-known member
I need some opinions on the HD8 and HD10. I am debating on which one to buy and price is a driving factor. Our property is very sandy on one portion and on another section it is sandy top and about 1 foot down, hard clay to China. I have no rocks etc and I plan on using this for driving pipe(2-3/8" and 2-7/8") post in the ground. I have no intentions of driving wood post. Will the HD8 work?
callmefence
Keyboard cowboy
saltbranch":c2g3oga4 said:
My opinion is yes I think it will be plenty
saltbranch
Well-known member
Thx for all the help callmefence. I hope to pay it back one of these days
saltbranch
Well-known member
OK, pulling the trigger on this one. Ordering tomorrow. Thx Fence for the advice on which one to buy...the best way to use is my next round of questions
Craig Miller
Well-known member
I don't have experience but it looks like it would not work good on rocky ground. They even said the were in sandy ground. We use something similar to that to drive ground rods at work and the minute it hits something solid its done.NECowboy":yvztbf1j said:
LongLopeSlowHorse
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hd10, one of the few things I've bought brand new.
Have pounded maybe 15-20 miles of fence with it.
3 pt mount was expensive, so I borrowed dealers and copied it.
I would not put on 3 pt again.
Big tires absorb too much of your whack.
operator twisted around, foot on clutch, gets to feel every hit.
more dangerous for person on ground.
went thru several springs---co finally to me to 'condition' new ones.
run them up a little, then down, then a little farther, etc etc. it helps
the adjustment is kinda sloppy, you learn which way to lean to pound them straight--kinda counter intuitive.
had to rig up to dump right back into trans to not starve pump.
also took right off high pressure for supply.
industrial jd 3010---25 gal min pump.
this sucker will pound!
on hard driving, hit it hard, if goes a little every hit, less apt to 'rivet' top of post.
if post end isn't square, take your saw and square it.
if you think you're gonna have trouble with hard driving---I have driven sharpened rr ties with this----staple one end of barbless wire, wrap a couple times, pull tight and staple bent over end before you start.
Stand off to one side!
Watch your hands!
more than one person has put hand on top of post while in driver to pull it a 'little straighter'--
Have pounded maybe 15-20 miles of fence with it.
3 pt mount was expensive, so I borrowed dealers and copied it.
I would not put on 3 pt again.
Big tires absorb too much of your whack.
operator twisted around, foot on clutch, gets to feel every hit.
more dangerous for person on ground.
went thru several springs---co finally to me to 'condition' new ones.
run them up a little, then down, then a little farther, etc etc. it helps
the adjustment is kinda sloppy, you learn which way to lean to pound them straight--kinda counter intuitive.
had to rig up to dump right back into trans to not starve pump.
also took right off high pressure for supply.
industrial jd 3010---25 gal min pump.
this sucker will pound!
on hard driving, hit it hard, if goes a little every hit, less apt to 'rivet' top of post.
if post end isn't square, take your saw and square it.
if you think you're gonna have trouble with hard driving---I have driven sharpened rr ties with this----staple one end of barbless wire, wrap a couple times, pull tight and staple bent over end before you start.
Stand off to one side!
Watch your hands!
more than one person has put hand on top of post while in driver to pull it a 'little straighter'--
NECowboy
Well-known member
Bigfoot":388806fm said:
Do you always gotta have someone on the ground with these things?
callmefence
Keyboard cowboy
Do the stretch way in the back in the brush that nobody but the cows will see first. You'll get the hang of it.
