pool deck

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GMN

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southwest, MO
Anyone ever built a pool deck around a 24 foot round pool? We want to build one, but don't have a blueprint-nothing, just a idea in our heads of how we want it to be-does anyone have any building skills, how would we figure out what lumber to buy etc..? Thought maybe Lowes could tell us what we needed if we went in there with an idea-anyone ever do that-or built a pool deck?
 
I've built many decks in past for myself and customers. Not really rocket science...lol. There are some basic givens:
  • 1. Need footings for posts (or) set posts in concrete to support "floor joists".
    2. Install floor joists after installing perimeter(s) boards to affix joists too.
    3. Install deck boards onto joists with coated screws (drill holes in boards, then screw them into joists) Don't drill into joists.
    4. Use metal "framing brackets" (aka joist hangers) to attach joists to perimeter boards.

A Special Note: If you are not readily familiar with measuring, layout, using power saw, using an electric drill to install screws, then you need someone to help and/or do work for you.

Notes:
  • A. Use 2x6" lumber for perimeter, joists, and decking. (Check with someone on the "correct" span for joist lumber...2x6" lumber "generally" ok upto a span of 12' or so).
    B. Posts should be no further apart than 8 ft.
    C. Joists should be about 24" apart.
    D. Screws should be special "teflon coated" (or similar) for anti-rust.
    E. Perimeter joists need to be spaced as hexagon, octagon, etc. to go around round pool (to keep construction simpler).
    F. Use treated lumber (if "allergic or opposed to 'chemicals'") use construction heart redwood. If using redwood rather than treated yellow pine lumber, then you need to "upgrade" size of lumber, e.g., 2x8" or so. Redwood has less strength than yellow pine.
    G. After deck completed, treat with one of the special water-repellant "chemicals" (petroleum based) as extra insurance against water penetration.
    H. Upright posts that are set in concrete should be high enough to affix a railing around the outside perimeter of deck (probably 36 to 48" high above deck floor).

Draw out your deck plan using a "scale", such as 1" = 3' , or your choice. Then, draw all joists in to scale. Then, simply measure the total footage of all boards and divide by whatever length you plan to buy (e.g., 12' , 16' etc.).

If these instructions don't compute for you, go to a store and buy a "deck plan book", select the design, and then leave it up to the store to tell you what you need...

A caveat: One should generally purchase 5% more lumber than you "think" you will need (otherwise, due to cutting issues, you may find yourself going back to the store 1 or more times...

Good luck!
 
no offence.. but a decK??? ive always wondered why folks build a big fancy deck around a above ground when you could put most of that money on a in ground pool
 
ALACOWMAN":1f1m1vub said:
no offence.. but a decK??? ive always wondered why folks build a big fancy deck around a above ground when you could put most of that money on a in ground pool
Click to expand...
Scared of deep water. Above ground ain't deep... it's high. :lol2:
 
If you are using treated lumber the deck boards should be tight against each other when screwed down. The boards will dry and shrink leaving sufficient space between the boards.
 
Around here, an in-ground pool will lower the market value of property, but raise the taxable value. Raise your insurance premium.
Above ground pools are personal property and mostly un-taxed.
Put down a deck, and you make the whole thing an "improvement", "attached to the property" by the posts in the ground. Taxable. But, you may go to church with the asessor. ;-)
 
GMN said:
a pool deck around a 24 foot round pool?[/quote]

I've built decks, docks and one gazebo. I think what you are fixing to do is somewhere in between. Good thing is, lumber is cheap. What RAB said is good. Personally I'd start at the pool and build the hard part first. This way I could scrap the idea if it got too difficult. This will be the hard part but if you take your time and think it through and measure everything twice and cut once you should do fine. Good luck.

BTW - there is not enough money on this earth for me to build another gazebo.
Click to expand...
 
slick4591":13kk7x8l said:
If you are using treated lumber the deck boards should be tight against each other when screwed down. The boards will dry and shrink leaving sufficient space between the boards.
Click to expand...

Technically correct. However, leaving 1/4 to 3/8" space between is ok. Consider that if the lumber you buy is damp (a lot of it is), then it has expanded & ok to put close together. Howevr, if the lumber is dry it's important to space between boards, since if no space and it rains and/or pool water or sprinkler gets on the boards they will expand and compromise the integrity of deck.

A lot depends on whether or not the lumber is stored outside or in a building (as in "some" mass merchandise home centers). Also, damp treated lumber will often warp when it dries out: case in point, "landscape timbers" or "square posts". Know your lumber...then build accordingly.

:)
 
My aunt & uncle had a cool setup for their above ground pool. They built a wooden deck all the way around it, then enclosed the sides with lattice and landscaped. They built some hatches into the deck to raise up and be able to get to the pump and mechanicals. Sorry, not a clue how they planned it out, but I do know my uncle and cousin did it all themselves once the pool was installed. It was real nice when they got done.
 

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