Moldboard plow parts question

jschoolcraft86

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
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280
City & State/Province
Seguin, Texas
i’ve recently begun using an old hand me down three bottom plow and i ran into a snag (i’m attaching some pictures to give context since im sure i am using the wrong terms). one of the pins on the offset draw bar that goes between the lower 3 pt arms sheared off and i am having trouble even figuring out what to search for to find a replacement.

so far i am having no luck using “offset 3 point drawbar,” all that turns up are regular straight drawbars and this needs to be offset to keep the plow at the right level when in furrow. is there a more precise term that anyone knows that might help me find a replacement?

alternatively, if i can find the broke piece out in the field or pirate a similar piece do you think welding with some good 7018 rod would be sufficient? i’m sure i would need a good bevel to get lots of penetration but im thinking that might be ok.

this is not an implement that i plan to use often, its more of a one off situation as i am renovating an old hay field. i’m 2/3 of the way done so i really want to find the cheapest way to just get finished. i can replace the whole plow with a similar used one for like $500 if thats what it comes to but im doing my best to be frugal.
 

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Looks to me like it's the pin that goes into your 3 pt. lower link arm, yes? If that's what broke, it should be easy enough to replace. If it's a 2 pt. drawbar though, with the pin welded on the end, then you're probably gonna need to replace it with a new 2 pt drawbar. What kind of plow? Have a serial number for it?
 
Hard to tell what broke in pic 2? Looks like the 3 pt pin to me too. Like mentioned, TSC or any farm store will have those. Is it one of these?


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My guess is it has the offset pins like most plows….basically the bar with the pins has a “twist” in it to make it cut right. One pin will sit lower than the other, some are adjustable as to how much.

As for how to repair I am not sure but replacing the plow should be cheap. Not much ground turned over these days. Most of the time they bring scrap price plus a bid or two. If you were closer to Virginia I know exactly where you could find a good deal on one.
 
Sorry about the terrible pictures, yes it is the pin that goes through the bushing on the 3 point arm on both sides, only one side snapped off. No serial number on the plow but the bar is definitely offset so that one pin is lower than the other, I know that helps it sit level when it's actually in the furrow. Unfortunately it is a welded on pin or part of a one piece bar so those tractor supply pins won't work, I'm thinking it's either 1) weld the old piece back on, 2) find a new bar, or 3) replace the plow.

I haven't been able to find the broken piece in the field yet or a replacement bar yet so option 3 looks like the most likely fix. I know there is a similar plow ready to go down the road from me for $595 so if it comes to that it it should be easy enough. I don't know if or when I'll use a plow again which is the only reason I'm trying to cobble this thing back together to finish this field (got like 5 acres to go, it doesn't have to hold long!).

I appreciate the input, I was hoping there was some magic term for that offset bar that I didn't know and that would solve all my problems when I searched for it.
 
Looks to me like it's the pin that goes into your 3 pt. lower link arm, yes? If that's what broke, it should be easy enough to replace. If it's a 2 pt. drawbar though, with the pin welded on the end, then you're probably gonna need to replace it with a new 2 pt drawbar. What kind of plow? Have a serial number for it?

You are correct about it being the pin that goes into the lower three point arm. It was definitely welded on or cast as one piece. I think it is a Case plow but that is as far as I've gotten. I had a softball game to go to yesterday and didn't get back in til after dark so I will run out and look over it again carefully.
 
Looks like a stub shaft welded into the flat stock. Cut out the old round stock and replace it with a new piece. The flat stock is notched making it look like a 2 prong fork, gives lots more area to weld and makes a stronger joint. That's how I'd do it.
 

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